Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Delivered on time, as promised. (y)

Creb Engineering's website:

Their eBay store:

I was able to get it loaded onto my engine stand all by myself!

The UPS driver graciously rolled the pallet up to my garage and helped me lift it onto my furniture dolly, where it remained till I could unpack it this weekend.
153482


Nicely packaged. Engine looked undamaged from shipping as far as I can tell with my bad eyes.
Wood + bolted down ratchet strap kept everything in place.
Engine (block) was completely cling-wrapped. I'll have to buy an engine bag from Summit.
153489


Today, I rolled the pallet over to my engine hoist.
Used a car jack to lift it up to the same height as the hoist's legs.
Then I just pulled it over onto the legs and hoisted it right out of the pallet box.
153483


153484


He packed in my custom requested 35-512-8 Comp Cams cam paperwork.
153485


I also custom requested lower compression so I could run a supercharger in the future.
These sweet forged pistons he chose + my 58cc aluminum high flow heads should get 9:1 compression.
153486


153487


Purty Ford Blue!
153490


Roller lifters of course, since I have '94 Bronco.
153488


153491
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
The only thing I'm bummed about is the flash-rust on the tranny side of the engine.
Absolutely not a big deal of course.. just... it's... not purty.
The metal is an easy clean-up.
The paint, IDK about that.
153492


153493
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I'm curious to see where this goes! Are you shooting for emmission inspection compliance or just making it faster?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Are you shooting for emmission inspection compliance or just making it faster?
Texas is "safety only" inspection now for a 1994.
So not concerned at all there.

Wanted something with a bit more power but will be rock solid reliable and could survive on 87 unleaded when needed.
But be a good base for a supercharger someday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Just noticed the connecting rod bolts on this new block build are stock, or at least stock "style".
Not ARP like the main bolts are.
Are rod bolts not a weak point in these engines?
Trying to decide if I should bother swapping them out for ARP or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Well you might be opening a can of worms....that's just my opinion
Maybe @cobrajoe can weigh in - but I wouldn't replace rod bolts without rechecking rod bearing clearances (maybe that's not a thing with small block Fords - I've only torn down a few over the years, but I've done plenty of SBCs - and I wouldn't replace rod bolts without breaking out the plastigauge) and that's sort of why you paid for the built engine - so you wouldn't have to do all that.

But I think you mentioned future plans on putting the squeeze on this engine...so there is that.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,526 Posts
nice looking block..while it's a bummer about the flash rust, I'm not sure how much you can do about it..I guess depending on your level of OCD you could repaint it, but that seems like it would be a hassle.. what are your plans for the intake?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I wouldn't replace rod bolts without rechecking rod bearing clearances (maybe that's not a thing with small block Fords - I've only torn down a few over the years, but I've done plenty of SBCs - and I wouldn't replace rod bolts without breaking out the plastigauge) .
Hmm. Something to think about for sure. Thanks for pointing that out.

what are your plans for the intake?
I've got the Eddie Truck intake sitting in boxes waiting to be installed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,074 Posts
On your last picture with the rear main seal. I would be worried about the nick in the rear main seal at 11:00
 

·
Ford-a-Holic
Joined
·
4,232 Posts
It's together so I'd just let it be. The 351 bolts are 3/8", not 5/16" like the 302. I'm assuming the rods were rebuilt with new bolts; I think for a mild build you'll be fine.

P.S> it doesn't look like a nick to me, either oil drip or a mark of some sort.

Just my $0.02
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
No marks in this better pic.
Thanks for pointing it out though!
I'll make sure to check it closely when I unwrap it again on Thursday!

If you right-click the images and select the option to "open in new tab", then you get the full-size pix.
153577
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,920 Posts
So how’s it going?

Why did you select that particular cam?

I’m confused about your compression but I’m green a engine building.

If you have small 58cc head chamber and a +28 dome piston - doesn’t that mean you’re increasing compression not decreasing it???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,170 Posts
I’m confused about your compression but I’m green a engine building.

If you have small 58cc head chamber and a +28 dome piston - doesn’t that mean you’re increasing compression not decreasing it???
Those are dished pistons. The reason they are +cc is because they are making the combustion chamber larger due to the dish. If you look up some domed pistons on summit they'll show a -cc because they make the chamber smaller due to the dome.

As far as his compression goes, he stated in another post that he had later plans for a supercharger. Lower compression is preferred for boost applications.
 

·
Ford Hoarder
Joined
·
6,471 Posts
I also agree that you should be fine with the rod bolts, especially since stock rods and engine all ready assembled. I would not change them on my own if I was in same spot.

Also thanks for posting all the pictures, CREB will be on my short list of places to get something from in near future for a 91 I am working on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Static compression ratio is pretty simple actually, once you get it straight in your head. There is a formula for figuring it out. Essentially you have to know the bore, the stroke, the volume of the cylinder head, piston volume, head gasket compressed thickness etc...

Essentially if you decrease combustion chamber volume you increase static compression ratio. The opposite of course is true - increasing combustion chamber volume decreases compression ratio.

The rub is that sometimes (different engine designs behave differently) too much combustion chamber volume can actually promote detonation / spark knock, even though the compression ratio is lower. I don't have the experience with Ford small blocks I do with other engines - but I do know that camshaft profile / overlap can also affect how much compression ratio you can get away with normal pump gas. I daily drove a 408 small block chevy that I built - and it had 11.5:1 and with the aftermarket solid roller cam it had, it did great on 92-93 octane pump gas.

I guess the highly scientific answer is : it depends LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
So how’s it going?

Why did you select that particular cam?
It's going to be quite some time before it goes into the Bronco.
I am re-painting my engine bay and planning to DIY Zinc electroplate a bunch of small parts.

I selected the cam based on the FSB community's recommendation, being that it is Speed Density friendly.
But still offers a small boost in power over the stock cam, without losing any low end torque.
 

·
Ford-a-Holic
Joined
·
4,232 Posts
Those are dished pistons. The reason they are +cc is because they are making the combustion chamber larger due to the dish. If you look up some domed pistons on summit they'll show a -cc because they make the chamber smaller due to the dome.

As far as his compression goes, he stated in another post that he had later plans for a supercharger. Lower compression is preferred for boost applications.
@Doosenberry, sometimes you make me so dam proud!

 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top