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looks awesome. i never realized the interest in these trucks. i just got rid of my 97 f250 powerstroke crew cab short bed 4x4
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ate lug
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Discussion Starter #22
Blasphemy!
Around these parts, these old 7.3s are still commanding a decent price, theyre worth more than newer chevys or dodges.

Kevin,the rig looks great:thumbup


Which kit did you go with?

I am looking at trying to lower my EGT's also.Those Baby Swamps are awesome but man,it gets real hot real quick..
Thanks :thumbup
Yeah the EGTs, they climb fairly fast, but this takes care of that.
This is the kit I used. Not cheap, but arguably the best currently on the market. I ordered the "Under 300 HP" version with a single nozzle. You can go pretty wild with dual pumps & dual nozzles if youre putting down major power, but for a mild tow rig this is all I need.



Oh, interesting tidbit. I had no idea until yesterday, but Walmart has a separate website dedicated to MSDS sheets for every product they make. I mention this because according to the MSDS, their cheap Super Tech Windshield Washer Fluid is apparently just over 30% methanol, with the rest being water. So that's what im running in the tank :thumbup
 

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Oh, interesting tidbit. I had no idea until yesterday, but Walmart has a separate website dedicated to MSDS sheets for every product they make. I mention this because according to the MSDS, their cheap Super Tech Windshield Washer Fluid is apparently just over 30% methanol, with the rest being water. So that's what im running in the tank :thumbup
You can always count on walmart for selling cheap and weak products :haha
 

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ate lug
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Discussion Starter #24
No kidding, that's the winter stuff. Looked up the MSDS for the summer washer fluid, and it says 70-100% water :rofl:

On the up-side, the winter stuff is the exact mix of water/meth I wanted to run anyway, so that's what ill continue to get.
 

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ate lug
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Discussion Starter #26
The water lowers your EGTs. This is the primary function, as the F250 is mainly a tow rig and not a cruiser. The methanol is primarily in there for winter use as it keeps the water from freezing, altho it is technically a fuel so you can gain HP from it, if theres enough of it in there.

The combo of 4.10s & 37s is nice for cruising, and I have the power to tow the bronco pretty well, but keeping my exhaust & cylinder temps manageable is somewhat challenging when towing in the mountains. This takes care of that. From the #s im seeing driving on the freeway to/from work, this system works better than an intercooler, which is actually kind of a PITA to install in these old trucks.
 

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ate lug
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Discussion Starter #29
It can go either way, just depends on how you spec out your kit. I went towards the high end (this one) because I wanted to buy it once and never have to worry about upgrading, altho you can get a basic kit from them for half that price.


Kev ,the kit that you have is a little (way:toothless) out of my price range.Is the stage one kit any good?What is the big difference between the 2?
I bought the CMGS kit because it is the most tunable. Its my understanding that the basic kits which use a boost switch, merely turn on when you hit your desired boost level. The CMGS & VC2 are both progressive controllers. This means you set a start point (say 5psi) where they start injecting, and progressively ramp up injection rate as boost increases until it gets to 100% duty cycle, which you also set. For example, I have mine set to come on at 5PSI, and to run at 100% at 20 PSI. The controller will progressively inject more until it gets to 100%, whereas the simple boost switches are just on/off. This actually allows me to inject more water since it doesn't inject at 100% at 5PSI like it would if I only had a switch.

The main difference between the CMGS & the VC2 is the controller, the CMGS is a shaped like a standard 2 1/16 gauge whereas the VC2 is a big square controller. Functionally they are the same.

Both the CMGS & the VC2 can use the Failsafe Control Box (FCB or FSB, same thing), which is basically a brain that stores info about your system. It is designed as a secondary failsafe because if it senses something out of the ordinary it also will shut the system down and tell the controller to display a specific error code. I like it because it is basically a second system monitoring the injection, to make sure nothing goes wrong. Not required unless you go big with 2 injection pumps and 2 nozzles. But that's the big boy stuff, like 350 HP and up trucks, not what you or me have so again, not a requirement.

My kit also has a solenoid instead of check valve. The idea here is, the controller must turn on the solenoid in order to inject water; this means there is no chance of the system dripping into the intake when the engine is off or im parked on a hill, etc. Basically eliminates the chance of accidental hydro-lock. Also nice is that if something goes wrong, the controller drops the ground, which shuts the solenoid down preventing the pump from injecting anything.

The cool thing about their kits is you can buy a basic kit now, and then just add components to it later if you wanted to upgrade. Id recommend either the CMGS or VC2 even if you get a stripped down system because the progressive injection is badass. No matter what kit you get, upgrade to the solenoid for the comfort of knowing there is no check valve to potentially fail or leak through.

I would not bother buying a tank from them, id get one elsewhere since you can get more for your money that way.
 

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ate lug
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Discussion Starter #34
Thanks :thumbup


Water Injection Update: it is amazing. I consumed almost 20 gallons towing the bronco to VA, however I was loaded way heaver then I normally am, and that was with the cruise set at 65 for the whole trip. It works amazing, I was tuning it on the way down, and found at 100% duty cycle, it will drop my EGTs from 1200 to 900 in ~ 30 seconds :eek: That's going up hill, at 65mph. Yeah, it works awesome. Of course, tuned that high consumes a ton of water, so I throttled it back a bit for the ride home. But yeah, awesome. Being able to tune it on the fly with the CMGS was awesome, it would've been a major pita to pull over after every hill to adjust a manual boost switch until I found a setting I liked.




Ok, next project. Started this one before my trip, didn't get to finish till this week. Damn rain & humidity delayed me as well, but theyre done.

So I bought a piece of 2*3, .250 wall, 16' long, at the scrap steel yard for $50. So I decided to make some steps for the diesel.



Looking at fitment


Deciding where to cut them off at


Cut down


Basic idea




Has to fit around bolt for fender


Both cut, notches to clear fender bolt closed in




Mocking up legs


All welded up


...and bolted to frame






Next up, steps


















...and for the finishing touch, 2" grip tape.


I know its not ideal for a rock crawler to have that step hanging down, but this thing only gets wheeled if we need a trailer offroad, so it shouldnt be an issue, and they definitely make it easier for my vertically-challenged wife to get in & out :toothless
 

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ate lug
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Discussion Starter #40
Thanks everybody :thumbup
Yeah seems most have been designated as plow trucks, which has ruined most of them around here. Getting harder to find a clean one.


Tell her to work on her "jumping" legs.
That's the problem with living on the side of a mountain, the slope is against you when climbing in the pass side, and its with you for the d.side. So its really easy for me, but actually most of my passengers have issues climbing into it when it is in its parking spot. I just like to bust her chops cuz she's short :toothless
 
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