Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
VEHICLE:
1995 FSB, 5.8L, E4OD
Mostly stock

PROBLEM:
I was travelling to a friend's house last night. All was well until I turned on the brights. Within 2 minutes, one llight started flickering and then I heard a loud pop and it went out. Within seconds, the other side, did the same.

I managed to limp to my friends place, vis-a-vis the hazards, and pulled the lamps.

They had both exploded. The plug was fine. The lamp housing was fine, but the glass bulb of both lamps had completely and viloently disintegrated.

And I know it's my fault. I just don't know HOW it's my fault. :toothless

BEFORE THE DETONATION:
I was using 100/80W 9007 (Street-Glo brand). Everything else was stock. However, the light I was getting from them was dim, almost dangerously so. (looked bluish).

I had been reading about V levels at the stock lamp plugs and how to improve light output by upgrading the harness wiring. I was getting only 10.5VDC at the stock plug.

I purchased this product:
9007 Headlight Wiring Harness Upgrade! with the "Add Low/High Beam Option" (I think it was Plug Ugly who advocated this product in an earlier thread.)

I connected the pass side stock lamp plug to the new harness, grounded both new plugs, and connected the hot wire on the new harness to the + terminal on the battery. I then plugged in the two relays and then -reconnected the - terminal. I metered the plug and was now getting 11.7 VDC at the plug.

I reconnected the new plugs to the lamps and everything worked. Lights came on and the brights did, as well (although I only tested to see IF the brights would come on; not how LONG they would stay on).

The trip I took was 30 miles. I drove 27-28 of them with just low beams on with no apparent problems.

When I yanked the detonated lamps, I metered the new plugs again (I travel w/ a V meter, lol). I was getting 0 V. Both the inline fuses of the hot wire were intact. I disconnected the new harness and metered the stock harness; I was getting 10.5 VDC. So, I hitched a ride and picked up a set of Sylvania Silverstars (9007) and reconnected the stock harness to them.

They are working fine (Low AND High beam- I ran the HIGH for about 10 minutes on the return trip).

So, I'm thinking that my problem has to do with something in the new harness and when the brights are on.

Could it be that this silmutaneous low/high option are the culprit? And why would I now be getting 0 VDC at the plug on the new harness? Bad relays?

Thanks for any info. :thumbup
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
22,761 Posts
DeeSee said:
Could it be that this silmutaneous low/high option are the culprit?
Most likely so.
DeeSee said:
And why would I now be getting 0 VDC at the plug on the new harness? Bad relays?
Possibly, but does the new harness have its own fuse? It should. If not, check all the connections & terminals - you might have desoldered or burned one.
 

·
Excessively Engineered
Joined
·
2,917 Posts
Our Nokia bulbs in our explorer did that also. I pulled the headlight housing and filled it with water. Blew on the end and seen a stream of water come out through a crack right above the bulb. Our bulbs were hot enough to burn the top of the housing and it cracked. Put some sealent over it and haven't have the problem since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, Steve, the each plug has an inline fused hot lead. Both those fuses are intact.

Hmm, if the simultaneous high/low caused the bulbs to go supernova on me, and my setup is otherwise normal, it begs the question wtf they would be selling such a potentially dangerous option without any warning about heat.

I take full responsibility for trying this out, but I'm certainly going to give them a call about it.

Hell, the only reason I got it is that the only time I run Highs are when I am in the woods with the rest of God's critters playing chicken in the road.

Lightnin, I checked the housings pretty well this morning- no cracks or damage I could see. However, there was no precipitation last night and the humidity was near 0, so... I'm not thinking that's what did it.

I'm going to pull up some of the relay diagrams I've seen here and see if I can trace the electrical failure in the harness.
 

·
Excessively Engineered
Joined
·
2,917 Posts
Just throwing out ideas. We never realized it until the next time we went to the car wash. It wasn't the humity it was the water from the car wash. Didn't by any chance wash it did ya?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
636 Posts
Just a stab in the dark...There could be a faulty ground somewhere. I have also heard of headlights blowing if your alternator is going bad. Bad diodes can send spikes throught the system, and a bad regulator could be overcharging. Not the most likely candidate, but not unheard of. The flickering is what really made me think of that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,864 Posts
Just a quick question......did you clean the glass part of the capsule with rubbing alcohol before you installed them? I always clean them before I install them.......they could have been touched by a worker or by me accidentally, and I just feel better if I know they are 100% clean. If they were touched and worked fine on low or high......but with the combined heat of both low and high the potential dirt spot could have cause the heat to concentrate on it causing the failure......or it could have simply been the fact the those bulbs were not designed to handle the heat generated by both simultaneous high and low beam running at 12v......?

I have always had good luck using Phillipp's or Sylvania's, and I am currently very happy with the Silver Stars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Lol, Lightnin'... ME? WASH MY CAR? Never.

Nah, man, t'weren't that. :D

As for a dirty spot, I had been running these lamps for several months on the factory harness, both in High & Low beams (but not Hi/Lo simultaneously).

I completely tore out the new harness and started from scratch. Metered the stock plugs at both Hi and Low. Everything checked out (10.5 VDC on one side and then the other, depending on whether it was on Hi or Low).

I went through the new harness, making sure that the hot lead fuses were intact, and that the relays didn't appear to be cooked.

I then plugged the passenger side stock lamp plug into the piggyback plug on the new harness and connected the hot and grounded the plugs (in diff locations... JUST in case). I then metered the new lamp plugs and got 12.7 on one side for Low and 12.7 on BOTH sides for High.

This indicates that the harness is doing what it is supposed to do... which leads me back to the High/Low combo making the lamps go boom.

And that would mean heat. These lamps blew so damn fast when I kicked it to High beams that there is almost (famous last words) no other explanation for the explosion.

So now I'm wondering if the High/Low combo was intended only for use with the lower wattage bulbs (like, 65W, right?) as opposed to these 100/80W ones.

OR, it could be that, as was suggested, these particular lamps couldn't hack it.

Just for reference, THESE are the lamps that burst. Model 9007-100/80W.

Hmm, looking at that glass coloring (and from the shards I shook out of the lamp housings), I'm wondering if these lamps are prone to the same probs that those fake black lights had. The incandescent ones that were just colored to look like black lights. Those things would overheat in a heartbeat and blow. Dark color=more heat. Just something to consider, I guess.

In any event, I will be contacting BlackCloud Diesel and ask them about this incident. S'far as I can tell, everything is working the way it is supposed to- just the damn lamps went ballistic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
yea i know if you do touch them and the oil from ur skin gets on the bulb it gets hot then blows, but you said you were running the bulbs for along time so thats probly not it. Thats CRAZY:wacko
 

·
Never ending project
Joined
·
1,084 Posts
If you run high watt bulbs with a aftermarket harness powered from alt with high and low on at the same time the bulbs will blow too much heat .:thumbup
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
22,761 Posts
DeeSee said:
...an inline fused hot lead. Both those fuses are intact.
Is there another fuse between them & the battery?
DeeSee said:
...wtf they would be selling such a potentially dangerous option
"They" don't know what wattage or quality of bulb you'll be powering with "their" relay mod. Some bulbs have thick enough glass to handle the heat of both filaments; some bulbs burn fewer watts; some bulbs are made of higher-quality glass...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,030 Posts
If I understand correctly you are running brights with the low beams on at the same time. 180W a side is a lot and is probably more than the lamp is designed for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
The harness' hot lead goes to the + terminal on the battery, not the alternator. There are only the two fuses in the harness between the lamp socket and the + terminal.

I agree Steve, lol, but if they knew this was a possibility then they should've mentioned something, as they make specific reference to using high output lamps with their harness; this could've been very dangerous. Otherwise, I can only make the reasonable assumption that they aren't aware of the potential problem. The lamps I was using were ~supposedly~ of good quality. Granted, simultaneous Hi/Lo is outside the normal operating parameters of these lamps, but, then again... it is for any of them.

Remember, these things didn't burn out or blow fuses; they exploded! :eek:

I'll be happy to use whatever lamps they recommend or used in their own tests. I just think they should be aware that this did happen with a name brand HO lamp and should mention the possibility to customers, that's all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,123 Posts
I've been running the streetglow 9007's for a while now, I was the one who suggested them in a thread in the tech writeup forum a long time ago. I've never had a problem with them. From time to time, when I really need the extra light, I'll pull back and hold the high beams on, but not for anything more then about 30 seconds... I've seen those high/low kits out there before, but only for older GM trucks that had separate lights/housings. I figured if they got too hot, they'd supernova.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Ok, talked to the guy who makes the harnesses for them today. He wasn't all that surprised when I told him that the StreetGlows popped. His exact wording was that they have a higher than normal heat/wattage output due to their light temperature (>6000K).

However, he flatly stated that he wouldn't recommend any other high output lamps than Silverstars with this application.

So... we're gonna see, lol. (or not *POP* *POP*)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,123 Posts
Yeah, the silverstars are still 55/65w lamps, but to get a lighter color light, they use a different charge of gas, and use a slight color correction filter.

The streetglows are 80/100w and use the same charge of gas as a silverstar, but the higher wattage and heavier color correction is what make them burn so much hotter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Yep, that's what he told me, albeit in more detail.

In retrospect, it almost seems obvious, doesn't it? :toothless
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Followup:

Absolutely NO problems with the Silverstars, whether in Low, Hi, or Low/Hi. After 15 minutes continuous operation while parked, I could comfortably put my hands on the lense.

I've finally got an awesome peripheral view, and wouldn't you know it, not a damn deer in sight. They usually line up to jump out in front of me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,123 Posts
meh, I wouldn't bother with the hi/lo kit, when I get the time, and a nice grille guard, I think 5 nice 100w Hella's will be much more effective:thumbup
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top