Heres how I have all mine set up, tach on the column, oil pressure, temp and volts on the left and the air on the right, all in good view.
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My oba install
6
MY on board air install
Now keep in mind, my install was relatively easy since I didn't have to make the pump bracket, since the york was the stock pump.
Parts:
About 50 feet of air line
1 toggle switch
5 t's the size of your hose barb thread
4 pipe nipples the same size at the "T"s
1 air pressure switch
5 hose barbs
2 air chucks
2 gauges
1 blow off valve
1 breather element
I started off by removing the suction side line from the compressor and ac box. I put it in a band saw and cut it off about 4 inches off the fittings. I mounted the breather there with a big hose barb, but didn't use a hose clamp so that it can be easily removed to drop some air oil in there periodically.
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I then removed the pressure hose and cut it in a band saw too. You want to leave as much of this hose as possible, because when the compressor has been running for a while, it will get hot enough to melt a regular air line.
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From there I tied the pressure side line into 2 "t"s in sessesion, one "t" for the pressure switch, and the other one for a line to go into the cab.
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I then ran a line from the back of the second "t" down the frame rail, and into the back of the Bronco. There it is "T" again, one side to a releif valve, and the other side to another "t". This "t" feeds the tank, and the rear air chuck.
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The line that feeds the cab goes through the fire wall, and to a "t" and a gauge and another chuck.
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For the power side of it all, I cut the existing clutch power wire after the slug connector, leaving enough wire to run to the pressure switch on the fender. Hook up the clutch wire to the pressure switch. I used pressure switch model 9013fhg2j27 (square D) from grainger. It was less than 20 bucks, and works good but I had to bump up the pressure a bit. Now from the pressure switch, you have to run a feed wire into the cab, and to a power source. You should run a toggle switch so that the power can be cut off when you dont need it running, but it's not necessary. Get power for the switch from a source that's only on when the ignition it on.
From there it's all just mounting things how you want them, and making sure you dont have any leaks. Any questions feel free to ask.
Now keep in mind, my install was relatively easy since I didn't have to make the pump bracket, since the york was the stock pump.
Parts:
About 50 feet of air line
1 toggle switch
5 t's the size of your hose barb thread
4 pipe nipples the same size at the "T"s
1 air pressure switch
5 hose barbs
2 air chucks
2 gauges
1 blow off valve
1 breather element
I started off by removing the suction side line from the compressor and ac box. I put it in a band saw and cut it off about 4 inches off the fittings. I mounted the breather there with a big hose barb, but didn't use a hose clamp so that it can be easily removed to drop some air oil in there periodically.
I then removed the pressure hose and cut it in a band saw too. You want to leave as much of this hose as possible, because when the compressor has been running for a while, it will get hot enough to melt a regular air line.
From there I tied the pressure side line into 2 "t"s in sessesion, one "t" for the pressure switch, and the other one for a line to go into the cab.
I then ran a line from the back of the second "t" down the frame rail, and into the back of the Bronco. There it is "T" again, one side to a releif valve, and the other side to another "t". This "t" feeds the tank, and the rear air chuck.
The line that feeds the cab goes through the fire wall, and to a "t" and a gauge and another chuck.
For the power side of it all, I cut the existing clutch power wire after the slug connector, leaving enough wire to run to the pressure switch on the fender. Hook up the clutch wire to the pressure switch. I used pressure switch model 9013fhg2j27 (square D) from grainger. It was less than 20 bucks, and works good but I had to bump up the pressure a bit. Now from the pressure switch, you have to run a feed wire into the cab, and to a power source. You should run a toggle switch so that the power can be cut off when you dont need it running, but it's not necessary. Get power for the switch from a source that's only on when the ignition it on.
From there it's all just mounting things how you want them, and making sure you dont have any leaks. Any questions feel free to ask.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
theres a suction side air filter, and no, no oil filter. The only reason that I put a chuck in the cab is I had to run line in there for a gauge anyway, figured you never know, so why not. The second one is in the back. I'm making some nice front and rear bumpers, and I'm putting protected chucks in them for quick access, and the tank is going under the body.
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1 - 11 of 11 Posts
