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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All, after a year of fussing and fretting and steeling up the nerve to do it, my AC to compressor OBA project is done. I do have a bit of a leak in the system and over the course of 3 hours I'll go from 105psi to 40psi, but when the truck is running and the compressor is on, I've plenty to fill tires, run nail guns, staplers, etc.

Thank to EVERYONE who help me out by supplying pictures and answering a plethora of annoying questions.

Uncle Chan
 

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Yeah, come on.. The real thanks (not that I helped at all) is to put details of the build to help the next guy... Like me. :eek:)

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, here we go:

The first pick is the 2 gallon tank (NOT NEARLY ENOUGH!!!!). It has six ports: 2 3/8 ports (1 plugged, one air in) and 4 1/4 ports (1 drain cock, one safety valve (125psi), 2 lines out (one to the front and one to the rear)). It is bolted under the rear seat, driver's side:



The next pic is of the actual setup. I have the line in with a oiler and rice-rocket air filter. The line out is as follows : barb>filter/oil-remover>check valve>pressure switch (105 psi - TOO SMALL (I think I can get 125psi))>pressure gauge> barb> tank.



Last pic is of the air hose out the front. I've a matching one out the back. Incidentally, I've a hitch-mounted winch with a battery quick connect/disconnect:

 

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Nice... Thanks for the description of the piping assembly in and out of the pump... That's the kind of stuff that seems easy when your reading it, but would take me a while to get everything straight.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
this is my setup:

In (bigger line) > AC > Out

IN:

small filter > barb > oiler > barb > AC

OUT:

AC > Barb > deoiler/filter > reducer fitting > check valve > "T" with pressure switch > female union fitting > "T" with pressure gauge > barb > hose

pressure switch wiring:

take the two wires coming into the AC unit (On top) and cut them off and cap off the two that disappear into the wiring loom.

Take one and attach a longer 14ga black wire to it and attach it directly to a ground (I used the battery).

Take the other one and attach a red 14ga wire to it and run it to one of the two prongs on the pressure switch. Run another one from the second prong on the pressure switch and into the cab to a toggle switch. From the other side of the toggle, run a wire back out into the engine cavity and give yourself enough wiring to go to the battery. Attach an inline fuse to it (I used a 7.5 amp) and attach to the battery.

Pretty simple, really. But I was terrified.

Now, if I can only find out why I'm losing pressure. Probably a bad connection somewhere. :)

Uncle Chan
 

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my bko ate my money
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nice that looks similar to mine but my air gauge is inside on the dash and my air sourcess go through the bumpers, got the yellow coil hose and tools inside the storage compartment, and a pressure switch to regulate tank pressure and compressor duty cycle, since i aint got a/c anymore i put a jumper in the connecter for the a/c pressure switch, so i can turn the compressor on with the dash a/c controls, normal or max a/c is compressor on, all others are off, while its on, the tank switch regulates tank pressures
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
...since i aint got a/c anymore i put a jumper in the connecter for the a/c pressure switch, so i can turn the compressor on with the dash a/c controls, normal or max a/c is compressor on, all others are off, while its on, the tank switch regulates tank pressures
Wish I could have figured out how to do that. I would have much rather set mine up that way. Alas, it wasn't meant to be. So, basically, rather than run a line from the pressure switch to a switch then to a power supply, I would just run a line from the pressure switch to "something" on the AC switch?
 

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my bko ate my money
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Wish I could have figured out how to do that. I would have much rather set mine up that way. Alas, it wasn't meant to be. So, basically, rather than run a line from the pressure switch to a switch then to a power supply, I would just run a line from the pressure switch to "something" on the AC switch?
you can put a press. switch on your tank set to turn the switch off at lets say 125psi, run those wires from the press. switch to the pressure switch connector that you take off the a/c, then when the tank switch goes below 125psi, it turns the a/c clutch on just like the a/c setup, just relocating the press. switch to the tank and using a diff pressure switch.

any pics of the dash mounted gauge?
its a gauge just like in the pic above with a air line ran from the tank to the gauge, i made a mount out of a peice of scrap metal, put a hole in it the same size as a male air hose adapter, screwed the adapter in the mount, then the gauge to the adapter, then mounted it to the bottom of the dash, put a female end on the hose coming from the tank....gotta get creative with it
 

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its a gauge just like in the pic above with a air line ran from the tank to the gauge, i made a mount out of a peice of scrap metal, put a hole in it the same size as a male air hose adapter, screwed the adapter in the mount, then the gauge to the adapter, then mounted it to the bottom of the dash, put a female end on the hose coming from the tank....gotta get creative with it
gotcha
 

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my bko ate my money
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see if this diagram can help give you and idea how to wire your switch

nothing special just wipped this up

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yoomooman, thanks for the diagram, but I'm a very simply person. Why would you want two pressure switches?
 

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my bko ate my money
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no you cut the wires at the oiler switch and run em to the switch on the tank, then you can use the stock a/c controls without massively changing the system and rewiring it the way you did, my way is much more simple, you just have to run 2 wires from the tank to the harness under the hood, the heater still works in winter, just move it to normal a/c and the comp will run till the pressure is reached at the tank switch,

it sounds real complicated when axplaining hot it works, but is quite simple

whatever works for you man, just my $0.02,
 

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maybe one of you would be interested in a FULL writeup worthy of the Tech Section?

I pulled my AC about 5 yrs ago, never used it much. I've always wanted to drop it back in and use it for OBA, and use the dash AC slide controls to turn it on as yoomoorman mentions (the harness is still just sitting where the AC used to be).

Ya know, a writeup with added pics, the oiler, where did you get it, part number, etc. and a nice diagram of the whole air setup. Also curious if anyone has specs comparing these stock AC compressors to a york?
 

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my bko ate my money
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maybe one of you would be interested in a FULL writeup worthy of the Tech Section?

I pulled my AC about 5 yrs ago, never used it much. I've always wanted to drop it back in and use it for OBA, and use the dash AC slide controls to turn it on as yoomoorman mentions (the harness is still just sitting where the AC used to be).

Ya know, a writeup with added pics, the oiler, where did you get it, part number, etc. and a nice diagram of the whole air setup. Also curious if anyone has specs comparing these stock AC compressors to a york?
i couldnt do a write-up at the moment, i was gonna do ne on my E4OD rebuild but i was unaware brake cleaner eats cameras,

when comparing a york to the stock comp. on our trucks, the york is far more superior b/c of its internal oiling system, and its output is much greater then our wimpy a/c comp. the york is the ideal unit to use as OBA
 

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So did you use your factory A/C pump or did you use a york? Also where did you get the external oil source from?
 

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my bko ate my money
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we used the stock a/c compressor with a oiler/filter on the inlet, and a water/oil separater, on the outlet to the tank
 
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