my stainless brake line build

redbeast9 said:

Looks good, nice and clean. IMO, run the entire line inside the frame. Why leave anything to chance.

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I think it will be ok, I don’t do serious off roading, and I don’t see any scars on the frame from debri.

redbeast9 said:

Oh, I got a good idea for your next project, paint that frame. lol

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Where do I start :cry I’ll work on that when I replace the body

jmorriss said:

Is that the gen 2 lightning MC and booster setup you had been talking about?

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Yes

choranrn said:

holy how long did that take?

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:shrug couple days, after work, after the rain, and once I got the right tools.

Ganuus said:

It's great to have the right tool first. I'm tired of the cheapo chit that my friends have. I have less money, but I have tools for life. I kind of like the look of some new stuff snaking around the old. Like new life in old veins.

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:thumbup

Need4racin said:

honestly, your rust isn't that bad. I was expecting to see the body barely hanging on the frame from the way you describe it.

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The frame isn’t too bad, the body is toast. Not much on the surface, but the factory spot welds are rotted out, so a lot of the body panels can be move independently from the others.

godless said:

Funny, I didnt notice:toothless

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Sure ya didn’t

redwagon said:

funny, same thing happened to me just a few days ago...luckily I had a buddy who was able to flare them at his shop...

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I really wanted to get one of the $400 Hydraulic Flaring Tools, but I couldn’t justify the cost. I did break that small extension from the 3/16 die on the craftsman set. They replaced it no questions asked. :thumbup

redwagon said:

Ryan the lines came out great.

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:beer

godless said:

Either way I am always impressed with your work. :beer

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Thanks! :drinkbud

Black93Bronco said:

Looks cleaner than my brake line install, good work.

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It’s all in the time investment. I used cheapo lines to bend templates before I touched the stainless stuff. I made the front cross member template to the passenger front in 2 halves.

bossind said:

Nice work and it looks great. Surprised you didn't have to start a thread on why your brake pedal is soft when you start the engine. (not really surprised)

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I replaced a front caliper, replaced all the bleeders, bleed it 5 times with 3 different people. I knew it had to be the old distribution block / prop valve was gummed up, or the rebuilt master cylinder had pitting on the bore walls. So I replaced both with NEW modern parts. Not refurbished with 30 year old rusty parts :twak

flourman said:

Nice lines. When I opened it I had hoped it was SS braided lines as that would be cool to make at home as well. I would love to do that.

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I’m sure you can do it, but you’ll need an expensive crimper

flourman said:

Brake lines are one of those little things that I like doing.

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It’s not as much fun when the tools start falling apart

rightofway said:

you'd think if it leaks enough oil it'd prevent rust:haha maybe that's why my underside is mostly rust free

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It has stopped the rust from spreading on the firewall and parts of the frame.

rightofway said:

what's the point of the spiral

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jmorriss said:

Strain relief in case of relative movement.

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It’s used to prevent kinks while bending, and prevent abrasion.

Fireguy50 said:

I know my Bronco is rusty and leaks oil

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Whose 86' isn't/doesn't

Really nice job Ryan

wish I'd done mine in stainless instead of plain old steel lines;



Guess I'll get a second chance soon enough:doh0715:

Great work, you'll get your Southern shell some day:thumbup

Sixlitre