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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
for yall's entertianment

Well every ford I have owned that has been wheeled (1st was 79 150 4by at 17 now I'm 28) has either smoked the pump, puked fluid, or blew the seals out of the box. And yes probably alot of it is driving conditions but I like to play. Any way i took the bronco down a logging road cause the kids kept wanted to go muddin:twotu: pulling back in the yard I heard the familiar low fluid p/s whine.

I checked under the hood and all was well, pump still there cap on, not filled with water, then the bottom was where the seal was blown on the sector shaft. correct me if that is wrong.

the problem



Rather than replacing the seal i wanted to avoid future problems with the rest of a 18 year old box with a not so great reputation and went with a Red Head. My choice was pretty easy after reading a bunch of good reviews on here and phone call to the family owned business in Seattle WA were they answered all my questions:thumbup

the fix



my removal: pulled air filter box and intake tubes to access the steering shaft pinch bolt and input/return lines.



plastic dust shield slid up to get to the pinch bolt



removed the bolt completely and slid/pried the column shaft off the gearbox and pushed it aside. I forgot to mention i ran my seat belt through the steering wheel and buckled it to keep the wheel straight or close to it.



then i disconnected both the hoses and headed under the truck.



removal of the cotter pin and nut holding the drag link to the pitman arm and separating the two





after that i removed the three frame bolts and and let'er drop



the pitman arm nut came off easy



then on to the piman arm removal or not



the box should read "never"tough



it's just a little slow down now i am waiting on the snap on truck with a # CJ119B this afternoon.

Then after I work :barf wed and thur night I will be able to swap the arm flush my pump and reinstall the redhead for the weekend.

I do plan on a sag pump swap to complete things later before my s.a.s. All was done in the backyard with two citronella candles going to keep the skeeters at bay.
 

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Just did this on my bronco a couple weeks ago. Its suprisingly simple to do....... just takes time. Did you try heating up you Pitman arm before hitting it with the puller?
 

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put pressure on the pitman arm puller, heat one spot on the pitman arm with a torch, then smack it with a hammer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
update.....

Yes ATTICA this is a pretty brainless swap, jopes I had no heat available then, time however has not been so easy to come by the last few days were spent sick and :barf but I'm well enough to wrench. The waiting on the puller was a fail (sorta long story) and i bought another pitman arm and started putting the blacken back together again.



The new arm was $20 cheaper than the puller i was waiting on, so I am ahead 20 smacks until something else happens. Hopefully the Red Head will be in there for the distance.

So far tonight everything is bolted back in except for the lines, I'm going to purge the pump to be sure I don't poison the new box.
 

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I remember when I did my tie rod end boots one wouldnt come out of the pitman arm. Got it out by putting pressure on it with a puller and wacking the side of the pitman arm.

Btw, I noticed you havent had the cruise recall done.
 

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cool beans! let us know how the red head does! have you considered a pump and/or cooler upgrade?

I replaced the box on my 88f150 not too many miles ago, I got lucky and didn't break anything, so even with beer and two friends standing around it only took a couple hours.

mine went out cause i loaned it to my dad, and he ran the adjustment screw out all the way to "take out the play", causing the bearing for the sector shaft to disinigrate! yeah, it needed a tie rod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
So far so good I had to get another high pressure hose this morning, the threads on the factory one were not so great. Rather than me forcing it to thread and having to pull the new box I opted for an new hose. The pump is purged and clean thanks to the wifey's help after the kids went to sleep last night.

I do plan on a sag swap for the pump later when funds allow, right now its still working (fingers crossed). The steering shaft is good. I installed a cooler on my 79 and will probably put one on the blacken later. Currently the bronc is the only thing in the yard with a trailer hitch witch I need badly to move some stuff. So right now with empty pockets I am in minimalist mode to get together.

It now steers with out leaking quarts per trip :thumbup

Everything is back together loctited and neversiezed (not mixed lol) and driving.

Now to box up the core and ship it back so I can start saving for a pump swap and D44 parts.

And photobucket is taking forever to load.......

and there
 

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My box isnt leaking, I think the worm gears are shot. I have tightened the box almost a full tun so far, and dont want to over tighten it. I looked up the redhead folks and it seams like they go that extra mile. My question is how much does that extra mile cost? Who pays core return shipping? My local O'Reilly's has A1 Cardone for 150 + 70 for the core and a motorcraft for 286 + 150 for the core... my heart says go motorcraft... my wallet says go cheap... Can ya help me convince my wallet?

Oh, and I bought this truck for a daily driver but I want to be able to go wheeling too... I have a 98 Ranger that I have taken wheeling a few times and it has been great, and its bone stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The cost for something done right and confidence in that can be a little more than the rest, but you pay for what you get. The box was around 230 and the core was 75 plus the shipping both times. Return on the core was not tjat bad because it fits in the flat rate box.
If you have any questions about what they do ect feel free to give them a call. I made three or four calls to them before I ordered thier product. I highly recomend them they are really friendly and take the time needed to answer everything.
 

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Thanks for the information. I'm looking to do this same swap in the spring. Just hoping my bolts aren't rusted/seized too bad!
 

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Thanks for the information. I'm looking to do this same swap in the spring. Just hoping my bolts aren't rusted/seized too bad!
x2

Thanks for the information and the pics! I'll be putting in a Redhead this spring/summer.
Mine doesn't leak, but it has LOTS and LOTS of slop (to the point where they almost can't align it anymore).
 

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I realize this is a fairly old thread, but I just ordered a Redhead steering box and am preparing to do the install as soon as it arrives and this seems to be the best thread on the installation.

...I'm going to purge the pump to be sure I don't poison the new box....
Can anyone provide more detail on this? At this point, I'm replacing the box but not the pump. I assume when I pull the lines to the steering box, much of the fluid will run out, but what is the correct procedure for draining or flushing the pump and reservoir?

Also,

...removal of the cotter pin and nut holding the drag link to the pitman arm and separating the two...
Once you remove the cotter pin and nut, does the arm and drag link easily separate, or do you need to use some kind of puller or remover?

Thanks...
 

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I realize this is a fairly old thread, but I just ordered a Redhead steering box and am preparing to do the install as soon as it arrives and this seems to be the best thread on the installation.



Can anyone provide more detail on this? At this point, I'm replacing the box but not the pump. I assume when I pull the lines to the steering box, much of the fluid will run out, but what is the correct procedure for draining or flushing the pump and reservoir?

Also,



Once you remove the cotter pin and nut, does the arm and drag link easily separate, or do you need to use some kind of puller or remover?

Thanks...
Whack the pit-man arm a few times with a hammer then go at the drag link with a pickle fork. Repeat until desired result it achieved.
 

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What about just removing the pitman arm from the steering box while it's still in the truck? Seems like one less step unless the pitman arm won't budge.
 

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What about just removing the pitman arm from the steering box while it's still in the truck? Seems like one less step unless the pitman arm won't budge.
I'd remove the pitman arm from the box while it is still on the truck, unless it is so rusted the pitman arm needs to be replaced.
 
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