[SigEpBlue]

It might help us help you more quicker. :toothless

 

[jermil01]

yup

Ryan, with all of the problems of getting my EEC wet, I have been thinking about running an extension to move it inside the cab. How hard would it be for you to make something? I'm thinking 5 feet long would probably be sufficient to put it somewhere safe. If you need, I can email on you RJM site. Thanks.

 

[jermil01]

It might help us help you more quicker. :toothless

I'll have him get those codes. I just now that we've tested each one of the components in question and non so far have come back with a problem.

 

[yoomooman]

this sounds like another EEC problem man, this does suck i have a thread up asking about ideas on waterproofing the EEC box but the prob is it has to have ventilation, your best bet is to have an extension made and put it somewhere inside and up a little higher,

ive gone through 3 in the last couple months from water damage we opened all of them and they were full of water, i had to make a harness useing one from my parts truck, and it worked great, it hasnt got wet and its a bit easier to get to now under the dash

heres the thread:
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=129762

 

[JKossarides]

There are a number of rubber incased voltage resistors on the harness, most of which are small and Tan in color once you clean off the grease and grime.....lol lol

IDM= ignition diagnostic monitor is usually located up top where the harness comes across the drivers side valve cover or near the IAT = intake air temp sensor.

It looks like a LARGE eraser, mine is green with a --W-- symbol on each side with 2 wires, one on each end. The IDM is inside the rubber eraser case and IIRC I got a new one from Ryan, aka Fireguy50 a few years ago for about $1.00 and it's been fine since then......the new resistor is smaller then the old ones.

You need to sodder the wires and resistor together nicely but don't overheat the process otherwise you'll fry the new one.
I managed to save the old rubber case by cutting it in half neatly, rewired it then used a tiny bit of Ultra Copper RTV around the outer edge of the rubber case away from the resistor to hold it together then taped it with a label to easily identify it.

You not want or need to go that far, I just like to keep as many original parts as possible ~

Good Luck ~

 

[jermil01]

Thanks for the suggestions..I'm going to check with Fireguy to see if he can fab up some type of extension and then mount the box in the cab somewhere well above where any water could reach.

this sounds like another EEC problem man, this does suck i have a thread up asking about ideas on waterproofing the EEC box but the prob is it has to have ventilation, your best bet is to have an extension made and put it somewhere inside and up a little higher,

ive gone through 3 in the last couple months from water damage we opened all of them and they were full of water, i had to make a harness useing one from my parts truck, and it worked great, it hasnt got wet and its a bit easier to get to now under the dash

heres the thread:
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=129762

JK...do you have any pics of this that you could provide? That would be a big help. Thanks.

There are a number of rubber incased voltage resistors on the harness, most of which are small and Tan in color once you clean off the grease and grime.....lol lol

IDM= ignition diagnostic monitor is usually located up top where the harness comes across the drivers side valve cover or near the IAT = intake air temp sensor.

It looks like a LARGE eraser, mine is green with a --W-- symbol on each side with 2 wires, one on each end. The IDM is inside the rubber eraser case and IIRC I got a new one from Ryan, aka Fireguy50 a few years ago for about $1.00 and it's been fine since then......the new resistor is smaller then the old ones.

You need to sodder the wires and resistor together nicely but don't overheat the process otherwise you'll fry the new one.
I managed to save the old rubber case by cutting it in half neatly, rewired it then used a tiny bit of Ultra Copper RTV around the outer edge of the rubber case away from the resistor to hold it together then taped it with a label to easily identify it.

You not want or need to go that far, I just like to keep as many original parts as possible ~

Good Luck ~

On another note I was able to locate the correct EEC, and it's being shipped from Cali, should have it next week sometime.

 

[yoomooman]

i dont have pics, i dont even have my digicam anymore:banghead

its straight forward really, ryan(fireguy) has the pinouts on his site, and haynes helped alot too, i used the male EEC end of a harness from my parts truck, and a female end from the old computer to make a harness

 

[jermil01]

Still waiting on the correct EEC to arrive, should be here today or tomorrow. But I had another question, what would be the potential issues if someone had cut the check engine light wire. I mean besides the check engine light not coming on. Would it negatively impact the function of the EEC, or cause it to throw strange codes? Just curious. thanks.

 

[BroncoHector]

Keep us updated if the correct ECU fixed your problem

 

[SigEpBlue]

As long as it's merely open, you should be all right but...why would you cut that line? The PCM merely completes a ground path when the MIL should be illuminated.

 

[jermil01]

So if the PCM completes the ground path and that wire was cut an exposed to moisture or water, that could have potentially caused my problem by grounding it out..maybe, just a guess..

I personnaly didn't cut the wire, not sure how it happened, but it was clearly snipped at some point.

As long as it's merely open, you should be all right but...why would you cut that line? The PCM merely completes a ground path when the MIL should be illuminated.

 

[jermil01]

New EEC arrived today, installed, fired up and it runs like a new vehicle, it's idling perfectly. All the sensors are reading good across the board, the MAP is within range. Only three codes remain, and they're related to the emmisions components, one was the air pump(it's been deleted)and the other two I think were for the Tab and Tad sensors, either way they shouldn't impact the driveability. Timing is set and just waiting to road test, once this is done I'll post the part number for the EEC that was used.

So back to the weird part, how was my rig able to run for so long on the wrong EEC, and how did the EEC short? I'm guessing the problem was that it somehow was damaged by water intrusion and part of the board was grounded out..I'm going to work with Fireguy to see about getting an extension made to move the box into the cab.

 

[BroncoHector]

So what model Bronco was your PCM for? or for what car? and how did your road test go?

 

[jermil01]

Road tested today, the Bronco runs like new.. I'm thrilled, after all the crap we went through with the EEC everything seems to be perfect. Starts immediately high idles for a bit and kicks down like it should, more importantly,no black smoke.:thumbup

So here is what I got for the EEC,

EEC-IV EFI-SD48B C2S2
F2TF-12A650-Rc, these are the correct numbers for the EEC in this rig.

Still throwing three codes, 552, 553, and 311 all related to the air pump and some other emmisions related items that had been removed when the engine was rebuilt but they don't seem to be negatively impacting driveability.

 

[Daveosaurus]

I was gonna suggest replacing the EEC but looks like I'm too late ;-)

My '95 351 was running like you'd described after I left it sitting at the airport for a week during some pretty heavy rains. It was idling really rough and would sputter and choke like it was flooding when i accelerated unless i just floored it. I replaced all the sensors, checked the plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor and checked all the codes, but it still didn't fix it. Finally broke down and replaced the EEC and that fixed it immediately. Just letting you know you're not the only one who's suffered from this problem. Glad you figured it out!