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I bought this truck off a kid for $300 and lots of stuff has been diconnected and messed up, but it runs. If i just tap this wire on the + post on the battery, i notice that it pops a valve/ solenoid open and closed that's connected between hoses that run from the PCV and carburetor. does anyone know if its supposed to be connected to the battery or somewhere else???


 

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or i guess a better Q is if it'd even matter if it was connected or not. As you can see, I dont have the air pump and all the vaccuum lines and solenoids on the back of the valve cover are gone. i'm going to convert the 4.9 back to the old ignition system they had on late 70's early 80's (duraspark or TFI...cant rememeber which it was called)
 

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The system you're working with is the Feedback carb setup that was only on 300s from '84 - '86. It's a pretty particular crowd you'll be needing help from for specifics like that. Secondly, most people can't stand that system so they revert to the older Duraspark II setup (highly recommended if you have a bunch of stuff missing and ever want to get that engine running right), so you're looking at an even smaller crowd.

I'd definitely repost your pics and questions over on http://www.fordsix.com or in FTE's 300 forum at http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum52

The feedback carb setup needs everything hooked up perfectly to run right, which is why it's a pain. Your question's valid though as to whether or not it matters if it's connected or not. If the system it ties in with has already been removed, you won't need it since it won't use it. It's hard to say though without knowing what else' been removed.


Lastly, why is the heater core re-routed into itself? Kinda hard to get the heater working that way. :D
 

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I would start by replacing the batter cables with proper ones.
 

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Im guessing the heater core is bad so he just bypassed it...one of many things needing attention on the truck right now, along with the awesome stereo amp wire for a battery cable. I definately got a $300 truck. I know the junkyard by me has an 81 F-150 with a staight six, so im hoping it would have the old Duraspark setup on it. thanks for the quick replies guys
 

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Im guessing the heater core is bad so he just bypassed it...one of many things needing attention on the truck right now, along with the awesome stereo amp wire for a battery cable. I definately got a $300 truck. I know the junkyard by me has an 81 F-150 with a staight six, so im hoping it would have the old Duraspark setup on it. thanks for the quick replies guys
Get it all ...carb duraspark and anything connected to it ....My 85 runs good but not great without all of the JUNK hooked up to it its not a heater core hook up at all..The hose on the heater core was probally done due to a leaky core..try to get the JY stuff on the cheap ...AB fell free to correct me just trying to get this one back on the Trail or Road..
 

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http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/906647-duraspark-ii-questions.html

There's a good link to some DuraSpark II swap info. Links to other good info in there too.

If I remember right, you'll need the distributor, carb, and the ignition control module.
The problem you're facing right now is the common issue with someone who thinks they're going to get more power by pulling out all the emissions stuff. Once they do, they have all these open wires, so they start chopping them off, or removing what the wires were plugged in to. Then, they wonder why they're truck is gutless, gets poor mileage, and get so tired of it they sell it. Unfortunately, once all that stuff is missing, there really is no way to get the engine running right again without tracking down and replacing all of it, or converting it to a different ignition system. On the setup you have, the timing is set by the computer, and if it's not getting signals, the timing stays static. When you set your base timing, it's often around 6 - 8 advance or so. When you're going down the highway, or flooring it, it can get up to around 35 - 40 for optimum engine performance. In this case, when it's not working, you're going down the highway or flooring it, and it's still at 6. Talk about power loss.

The DuraSpark is a very simple setup, since it puts a lot of the tuning back in your hands. Most of it is pre-set from the factory anyway, so it still isn't difficult.

And yeah, you look like you could use some new battery cables. :D Gotta love all that previous owner stuff people try to pull. When I got mine, my rear speakers had telephone cord for wiring.

And that would make sense on the routing the heater core back in on itself if it was leaking. That can cause a mess in the cab. Fortunately, the Broncos and F-trucks are some of the easiest heater core replacements ever. My wife's Chrysler LeBaron took 7 hours in my brother-in-law's shop with professional tools to change it out. The one in my Bronco took 30 minutes with a screwdriver.
 
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