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Biebs Ain't BabyDaddy!
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Discussion Starter #1
On the 96, I believe it started this afternoon after work. I had driven the truck all weekend - about 150 miles, and was backing out of my parking spot after work, and when I hit the brakes after backing out, I heard a nasty sound - the best I can describe it is a mixture between a metallic rub and the sound a bus makes when it releases its brakes. I had my bike on the bike rack, and it almost sounded like the bike tire rubbing against the spare tire cover, so I didn't think much of it.

I drive home with no issues, but I hear as I drive into my apartment complex a whooshing/grinding/rattling noise, one of the weirdest noises I've heard come from the truck, and when I hit the speed bumps at the entrance of the place, the drive train squeaked/croaked with it. I parked it, put it in reverse, and upon reversing I get a "CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK" coming from what sounds like the front end, followed by the same metallic rub noise that occurred when I first backed it out of work earlier. Pulled forward again, same whooshing/grinding/rattling noise as I heard pulling in earlier.

Locked out the hubs, engaged 4x4, backed up - same "CLACK CLACK CLACK - /MetallicRub"

Pulled forward, same rub/whoosh/grind.

Parked it and came inside because it was dark.

The issue here is that I'm no longer at my house with all of my tools, and my apartment doesn't want folks working on their vehicles so there isn't much I could do with the tools assuming I had them down here. Thankfully there's a good mechanic not far down the road and I don't mind driving it there, but I want to make sure the front end isn't going to explode on the way there. I don't "feel" anything different while it's driving, it's just the noise I hear. It's shifting and rumbling like it always has. Thoughts?

It's sounding like it's brake-related (I hope), but I don't even have the means at this point to jack the bitch up to look at the brakes.
 

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just for the fact it happened when backing up im betting something is wrong in the rear drums, especially when they self adjust when you back up

that just be my starting place, could be something else but someone else might chime im, but sounds are hard to diagnose over the internet
 

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There isn't much that can go wrong with the front brakes that isn't pad related to make that kind of noise. If the brakes feel okay when its making that noise, I'd think more hub related.

When you can, pull the wheel and take a look at the pads. Have you ever replaced the u-joints in the driveshaft or greased the slip joint?
 

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Biebs Ain't BabyDaddy!
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Discussion Starter #4
Have you ever replaced the u-joints in the driveshaft or greased the slip joint?
I fear this may be the culprit. I first heard the problem when I hit the brakes, but with the noises I'm hearing I am cautious to bank on it being a brake issue. I just inspected all the brakes when I rotated the tires and checked drive train fluids about 750 miles ago and everything looked good. To answer your question, No. Long story short, I had planned to handle all of that this past spring, shit happened, only half of the things on my list got done, and drive shaft maintenance wasn't among them. :banghead

The shop I'm taking it to is about 5 miles down the road. I'm going to drive it there tomorrow morning and leave it with them. It just sucks not being able to do more stuff myself. I'm looking forward to getting a house and a garage.
 

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Biebs Ain't BabyDaddy!
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11,159 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I about shit mt breeches taking her to the shop this morning. I was on a busy main road and she started giving out the metal rubbing noise more and more often. Then about a half mile from the shop the front end started with a loud rattling noise. "Ladaladaladaladalada." I was just turning onto the side street of the shop when it started, so I limped it the rest of the way. After becoming much more intimate with the noise this morning it sounds like it was coming from the front right hub.
 

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As long as you didn't friction weld the bearings to the spindle...you should be okay. :thumbup
 

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Biebs Ain't BabyDaddy!
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Discussion Starter #7
Just got a call. The transfer case is shot.
 

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Hope you brought some vaseline.


They are pretty simple to work on though, I imagine you could get a good used case for a decent price.
 

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Biebs Ain't BabyDaddy!
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Discussion Starter #9
This is what sucks about being away from home, away from the tools and overall out of my element. the guys working on it are amazingly honest and straightforward, so that's a plus. Apparently used transfer cases around here go from $500 to $700.
 

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That is a load right there. At the PnP in Charlotte, you could walk out of the door with a BW1356 with shift motor for less $60 after taxes.

Being away from your tools it makes sense to let them fix it, but just be cognizant of what these things actually cost. If you browse the for sale section, you'll find they mostly go for $100 or so.
 

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Biebs Ain't BabyDaddy!
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Discussion Starter #11
The Pullapart lists transfer cases for about $60. I asked him to keep all of the job documentation, which I'm sure they do anyway, and to call me when he sources one. I'll inquire as to the price and where exactly it is coming from then.
 

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Biebs Ain't BabyDaddy!
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Discussion Starter #12
He called and said he found a Grade A part from a yard in the state that he was able to get for $350. I asked just enough questions to glean where the yard was, looked the part up on car-part.com and found it for the price he quoted.
 

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Biebs Ain't BabyDaddy!
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Discussion Starter #13
Aaand the culprit that caused the transfer case to kaboom? It had maybe .5 qts of fluid in it! Odd considering I keep an eye on leaks, and other than the small leak at the rear main seal I haven't noticed anything else. Oh well, shit. The transfer case I replaced it with actually has more miles on it than my dead one, but it's on there now and the bitch is running like a champ again.
 

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MARBLE GARGLER!
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Loarmistead I know what you mean, When I bought/got my '90 Bronco home i decided to check the transfer case fluid because it seemed like it was something that would be overlooked.... it was ! About 1/3 of a quart came out, How can these things suevive like this ? possibly because the owner drove it on the freeway only ? I filled it up and drove around with the unit in 2wd and 4dwlow/hi..... to kinda move the fluid around {if it works like that} Then drained it all out and filled it with synthetic atf fluid.
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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351w500, shifting between 2wd and 4wd doesn't matter. the atf will get everywhere regardless. all you did was make sure it shifted and worked the front driveline, which in and of itself is a good thing.
 

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The 1356 holds 2 qts. The thing about transfers and gear boxes is the moving parts sling the oil everywhere. However, the 1356 has a pump inside it. There is a holding bracket that keeps the pump from spinning. When the pump goes south it usually breaks the holding bracket and sends it through the gears which is bad. Thats what mine did , but , it didnt hurt the gears or the chain. The bearing and seal kit cost me $103.00 and the pump kit cost $75.00. So for under $200.00 I got a nice rebuild.

In the future all Ford transfer cases work with all Ford transmissions. You dont have to go back with the 1356. As long as it came from a Ford you are all good. I see t cases on craigslist all the time. I saw a very tempting ad the other day. A guy was selling a rolling chasis off of a F250 that had a D60 out back a 1356 connected to a ZF5 with a D50 up front for $500.00. I just bought wheels and tires for 15" 5 on 5 1/2"'s so that would just add to the price to have to change all of those to.

T cases arent that expensive if you look around. I agree with what Justin on it being possible to find one for $60.00.
 

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Biebs Ain't BabyDaddy!
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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the input, guys. Next time I go home I'm going to be sure to check the other Bronco for t-case fluid. It has a nasty, intermittent, very high-pitched "squeeeeeeel", so high-pitched its hardly audible, coming from the drive train. I'm concerned it's a bearing in the rear end, but as soon as I get a chance I am going to give the whole underside a complete once-over.
 

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Chillin on the Gulf Coast
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He called and said he found a Grade A part from a yard in the state that he was able to get for $350. I asked just enough questions to glean where the yard was, looked the part up on car-part.com and found it for the price he quoted.
Biggest load of crap I have heard in a while. Not saying about you, but about the "grade A" part. Its from a freaking pick a part. He does not know what that thing has had done to it without tearing it down. Did he provide documentation of that price to you? Here in Vegas I can walk out the door with a transfer case for $75 any day of the week regardless of the condition. I think that mechanic may have taken you for a few extra bucks.
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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Biggest load of crap I have heard in a while. Not saying about you, but about the "grade A" part. Its from a freaking pick a part. He does not know what that thing has had done to it without tearing it down. Did he provide documentation of that price to you? Here in Vegas I can walk out the door with a transfer case for $75 any day of the week regardless of the condition. I think that mechanic may have taken you for a few extra bucks.
that's the way things are done. parts markup, HUGE. i got a cluster bezel from a boneyard for my last shop, for a customer. cost $5. my boss charged the guy $50 for the part, and $45 for install.

took me 5 minutes to change it.

i hate shops.
 

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i hate shops
I hear ya Unforgiven. The really crooked ones get me hot under the collar. However, even with an honest wrench shop prices have to be so much in order to keep the wheels turning. I run a business and its a small one. I could pay 2 guys $12.00 per hr all yr for what I spend in insurance premiums. When you factor in the price for rent and utilities combined with equipment costs it all makes sense why shops have to have so much.

The tranny shops are where all the smoke and mirrors come into play. If there isnt one that crooked I'll kiss your butt. They want full rebuild price no matter what they do. Most of the time it's a hydraulic problem that gets fixed with an o ring or just cleaning up the valve body. A friend of mine worked at one and no matter what the problem was or how long it took to fix it the owner would keep the vehicle for 4-5 days. This way the vehicle owner wouldnt start asking questions about the labor bill. Like I said earlier, most of the time the tranny doesnt even have to come out.
 
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