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Discussion Starter #1
I finally got around to installing my RuffStuff rear shackle flip and mostly got it done. I ran into a few snags (including a couple broken $20 bits, sweet!) We got the factory rivets out (what a bitch) and mounted the RS shackle flip and noticed the shackle angle needs to be adjusted. They are just mocked in there for now in the factory holes. I also threw the factory wedges back in there just to get it bolted so I could move it. I really just have three questions:

1) I need to correct my shackle angle and was thinking about moving the shackle bracket 1" to 1.5" forward, but that number is pretty much pulled out of my ass. Whats the best way to determine this measurement? I know the shackle needs to be angled like this --> \ and you can see with weight on it sits like this --> |





2) Im having a problem understand how these zero rate blocks move the axle back. I see it has offset holes, but am I drilling thru the leaf spring pack?



3) Need to correct pinion angle, but I believe this will come with the correction of the shackle angle and installed zero rate blocks.

Thanks for all the help,

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #2
lmk if pics dont show up.
 

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You can move your front spring hangars back to accomplish both the problems of shackle angle and recentering the wheel in the wheelwell. As for the pinion angle, you can remove and or replace the wedge to get the angle correct.
 

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Your going to have to cut the center bolt down to fit flush with the zero rate. The bolt that they include is center the zero rate on the axle. the other two holes is where the bolt that holds the leafs together goes thru. When i did mine, i have to get a longer bolt for the leaf packs. Here are a few pics, not too much help, but they might give you an idea..

In this picture you can see how the zero rate is centered on the axle, but if you look at the leaf pack bracket, its now off center. The circular "bump" that surrounds the old leaf pack bolt is where the new leaf pack bolt now sits..to the right of the center of the u-bolt brace..

Before

After 1"


Hope this helps out Bro!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You can move your front spring hangars back to accomplish both the problems of shackle angle and recentering the wheel in the wheelwell. As for the pinion angle, you can remove and or replace the wedge to get the angle correct.
Not wanting to cut the front hanger off, but may consider it. I can just move the rear shackle bracket forward, but is that going to move the axle even more fwd?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You can move your front spring hangars back to accomplish both the problems of shackle angle and recentering the wheel in the wheelwell. As for the pinion angle, you can remove and or replace the wedge to get the angle correct.
Your going to have to cut the center bolt down to fit flush with the zero rate. The bolt that they include is center the zero rate on the axle. the other two holes is where the bolt that holds the leafs together goes thru. When i did mine, i have to get a longer bolt for the leaf packs. Here are a few pics, not too much help, but they might give you an idea..

In this picture you can see how the zero rate is centered on the axle, but if you look at the leaf pack bracket, its now off center. The circular "bump" that surrounds the old leaf pack bolt is where the new leaf pack bolt now sits..to the right of the center of the u-bolt brace..



Hope this helps out Bro!
Thanks for the info, but Im still confused lol. I just need a little clarification, but it's starting to make sense. Am I replacing the center pin on the leaf springs with the bolt supplied or just cutting it down so it fits in the top hole of the zero rate. see that's where Im confused. 1) is the block just held to the perch by the ubolts and 2) does center pin on the leafs get replaced 3) what are the other two bolts supplied for?

It says the two holes on the block or for moving the axle 1.5" or 1". which hole did you use when mounted?

Thanks for the help so far!
 

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Am I replacing the center pin on the leaf springs with the bolt supplied yesor just cutting it down so it fits in the top hole of the zero rateno. see that's where Im confused. 1) is the block just held to the perch by the ubolts and 2) does center pin on the leafs get replaced 3) what are the other two bolts supplied for?
the block is bolted through the springs like and extra leaf. the block should have a separate bolt that fits in the hole in the middle of the leaf pad on the axle.

It says the two holes on the block or for moving the axle 1.5" or 1". which hole did you use when mounted?a little tape measure work will give you the answer. one hole is 1" away from center and one is 1.5" they move the axle that much.

Thanks for the help so far!
..
 

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You can move your front spring hangars back to accomplish both the problems of shackle angle and recentering the wheel in the wheelwell. As for the pinion angle, you can remove and or replace the wedge to get the angle correct.
Yes I agree and it's what I've done in the past. Moved the front spring hangers two inches back to get the tires centered in the wheel wells. If you go this route, check your driveshaft length closely, may need to have it lengthened.
 

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Okay, the bolt with a round head will bolt in from the bottom of the zero rate and the nut that holds in place will be recessed into the center of the zero rate, you will have to grind/cut off the rest of the treads off of the bolt. You will use the second bolt to go thru the bottom as well, but this time you will have the bottom bolt head recessed into the bottom of the zero rate, this bolt will hold your( in this order from bottom to the top) zero rate to the spring pack, tighten the bolt and now reseat the zero rate. if you have done it correctly, when the new center pin in the zero rate lines up with the hole in leaf pack mount, your axle should be shifted back an inch. You might have to cut or drill a hole out at the top of the u-bolt plate to get the spring pack bolt to keep from hitting the u-bolt plate. On mine i did not because of the litte hump all the way around the original centered leaf pack bolt...get it yet???
 

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Discussion Starter #11
^ big thanks for the explanation, I get it now!!

I just need to figure out if Im going to move the rear hanger forward or move both hangers inward.

What do you guys recommend? Will moving the rear hanger and inch or 2 forward also move the axle or did the axle only move because the shackle was dropped?

Thanks all,

Pete
 

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The shackle flip has a little to do with the axle moving forward, the other is the amount of lift. I would say try the zero rate first since you allready have it. It easier than cutting rivets!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
^ Yea no doubt, cutting rivets are a pain in the ass and the chisel hammer makes go deaf lol

Ok,
Here's what Im thinking:

1) Leave the front hangers where they are

2) Move the rear hanger (flaip shackle bracket) forward 2" - 2.5"

3) Install zero rates and inspect pinion angle and shackle angle.

Pete
 

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I'm sorry this took me so long to see, please call with questions, much quicker.

First off they are on backwards, swap the left for the right. Then they need to be about 1" forwards of where they are. That will cure the shackle angle problem.

Zero rates would just increase the potential for wrap, lose the block also if possible.
 
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