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Discussion Starter #1
I know this may be hard for you guys to read as I know it is kinda blasphemous to do what I am going to do, but bear with me. At least I'm not putting a Chevy motor in it.

So I should be picking up my 5th bronco tomorrow. An ugly miscolored 79. This one I plan to do a little different than my last ones. It is going to be a sleeper 2wd drag truck. I already have a built 514 and c6 to drop in, pushing roughly 550hp before I add a 200 shot. But I have a few questions as I've never gone this direction with a bronco. Now this is a budget build, meaning I want to keep it as cheap as possible.

1st - it has a 31 spline limited slip 9" rear end with "New gears" but he couldn't remember what ratio was put in by the last owner. Could be 3.50 or 4.10 won't know til I pick up the truck. I also have a sterling 10.25 with limited slip 4.10 from an 86 f250 with wheels. I tried researching But all I kept finding was For towing and 4x4 applications. Assuming the 9" has 4.10, should I stick with the 9 or go with the sterling for my app? I don't want to snap the axles or lugs on the 9" and I don't have the money to build it

2nd - if I am going to a 2wd c6 with a slip yoke, will I still need the 3 u-joint setup or will it make enough space to skip it without lowering the back? If not I was considering the idea of flipping the brackets on the axle to put the axle on top of the springs.

I am ok with lowering it a little, but like I said I want it to be a sleeper so I can try to take some money from the diesel punks around here

Thanks in advance guys
 

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Not blasphemous! Sounds like a cool (different!) build! There are a couple of drag Broncos on the site - one in England IIRC. I would guess the Sterling would be stronger, but I'll let others with more knowledge answer that question.

By "3 u-joint" set up are you referring to the front CV joint (the double u-joint) plus the rear u-joint? If so it should not be a problem replacing the CV joint with a single u-joint - the CV joint just helps with angle and vibration.

What are you doing with the front suspension? Converting to a 2WD set up or just gutting the D44?
 

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Yes I was referring to the double up front and the one on the rear. I just wasn't sure if going to 2wd would give me enough angle on the drive shaft that I could do away with the double up front and not have to worry about blowing u-joints. For now I am just going to leave The axle up front. The truck has manual steering that I don't want to lose and finding a 2wd truck with manual steering to take the front from isn't very easy.

I'm not going to gut it because it really does not feel right gutting a perfectly good solid d44
 

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What size tires are you planning on running? I also really like this idea.
The tries would make up my mind on if the 9" would survive or not. The problem will be if it hooks up or you get axle hop. You can build some traction bars to take car of the wheel hop, then it would just be if it hooks hard or not. The sterling should be fine regardless but maybe a bit overkill not sure.
 

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Drag means keep weight low. Stay 9" and convert to 4 link with coilovers. Ditch the 44 front for a beam style axle (think gasser). Dump the t case as well.
 

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Ya there is no tcase. I have a 2wd c6. I had this whole setup in my mustang. And I hadn't decided on tires yet because I wasn't sure if I would have to lower it or not to get rid of the cv joint in the driveshaft. I was thinking 28's just because they are so common but right now it has 33's and sits high. 28's would look so weird. What do people run on their trucks typically? And I'm not gonna convert the truck to 4link. That would probably cost more than I'm paying for the truck. Should I just put the sterling under it just b to be safe?



Another thing too is if I use the 9" I'll be using steel 15" wheels but if I use the sterling I'll be using aluminum 16" wheels so lighter but tires will be more expensive
 

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I think the 9" will live though the stock limited slips are not all that strong (the cases like to crack) I'd consider upgrading the diff or running a spool. It should have good weight transfer being a bronco as they are balanced well to begin with. I think a wide 31 would look good.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok. I was originally thinking 31 or 32. I guess I'll give the 9" a shot. Do I have to worry about busting the lugs or are they fairly hefty?
 

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Would not be to expensive to put some good ones in, not because it needs it per say but they are from 79, that's a lot of wheels going on/off
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok I'll look into some new ones. I actually have a box of brand new ones front and rear in my tool box from a past truck. And I'll start a build thread once I start tearing into the truck.

So for tires I have decided (mostly based on prices) on the 31x13x15 (it was either that or 31x10.5x15 for basically the same price. After that it was the 33x10.50) my choices are down to the m/t et drag for 269, Hoosier quick time pro for 262 or the Phoenix f/x drag with f9 compound for 248. I've heard the Hoosiers like to spin, and the Phoenix are sticky but lose air after a couple days which isn't too big of a deal since this is just going to be a weekend warrior.
 
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