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Discussion Starter #1
'89 302EFI...are there any old mechanics tricks for removing a corroded in connector from a relay without breaking something. It's failed intermitantly, but now it's becoming more frequent - time to replace it. I've unmounted the D-box to get a little more working room, but no luck. And it's a PITA to re-attach! I've got a new relay and some dielectric grease waiting.

The power distribution box under the hood...




The fuel pump relay...




The locking tab I don't want to break off, and the connector that's corroded in...


 

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o[|||]o
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11,146 Posts
Man good luck, I always end up getting frustrated and breaking those little tabs... They don't age well.
 

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Registered
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5 lbs hammer?? if that don't work get a bigger one.

but for that try sliding paper in between the clips and start working it back and forth. the paper will hold it back while you work on it.
 

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Never ending project
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Penetrating oil and a lot of foul words it works for me.:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cody said:
...try sliding paper in between the clips...
Shoulda thought of that. I'll give it a try, but I think I'll use some thin cardboard. Then penetrating oil, a lot of #&(&(^*$&$*, and a thin bladed knife to pry them apart.......thanx
 

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crank trigger
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i also think a little penetrant should help. i have also found that pulling kinda hard on those connectors will separate them without braking off the tabs (since they already are of a 'split tab' kind of configuration. maybe i was just lucky on mine...and it was an easier one to reach. good luck marv.
 

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Ex Navy Nuke
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5,421 Posts
Do you know that you're supposed to push those tabs in while pulling on the relay, not pry them out? You should be able to reach up in the plastic housing with a small screwdriver to release the relay then you'll be able to get both hands on it while trying to wiggle it loose. I just did this last week btw.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Another tip: if the whole thing ends up getting trashed, plastic and all, there are replacement connectors out there; they do exist! I've seen them only once at a NAPA, a long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away. If I had to guess, I'd day Motormite makes them.

I had this very thing happen on a girl's truck to the EEC power relay. Ended up busting off the remnants of the connector with a screwdriver & pliers. The plastic became melted/charred after the corroded terminals caused excessive current flow, thus the heat. I repaired, albeit in a hurry, with spade terminals and some non-conductive epoxy. That was 5 years ago, and I still see the truck running around. :)
 

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Ex Navy Nuke
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Actually if it comes down to that you'd be better off swapping it out in favor of a bosch style relay connector. Bosch relays are cheaper, more reliable and more readily available.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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RLKBOB said:
Actually if it comes down to that you'd be better off swapping it out in favor of a bosch style relay connector. Bosch relays are cheaper, more reliable and more readily available.
True dat. :beer
 

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I was just about to type that, if no one else had. It's something I've always recommended highly for pre-'92 trucks. Those Ford relays suck big-time. Chop the @*#^$*)s off & put some Bosch/ISO sockets on. You'll probly never have trouble again, but if you do, it's too easy when you're using the newer relays. Do a little searching & you'll find my list of which Ford wire goes to which Bosch terminal. I've also posted a link to photos of the relay & socket.
 

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ssecond the upgrade on the relay, also your terminals are probably corroded, and that may be whats causing some of your problem......
 
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