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Discussion Starter #1
i have about 10k miles on my sas, untill the other day its worked flawlessly.
when you hit the brake, the axle spins in the radius arms bushings about 4 or 5 degrees.
i had the wife drive it in the driveway while i watched to verify this. the braking motion tryes to roll the axle under the truck. obviously not gonna happen, but it does make a clunking sound you can hear and feel. still drives great though.
i have a 78d44, cage arms, and 2degree poly bushings.
the radius arm caps are tight. everything is tight. the "c" bushings should last longer than 10k miles right?
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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Course they should. Any pics close up? I can only think that they appear tight to you, but aren't. I would check them again. Both sides are doing the same thing?
 

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and you decided to investigate this once you started hearing the clunk, right? Has the clunk been getting slowly worse, or was it just not there, then one day when you hit the brakes you heard/felt it?
 

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Yeah, those need to be real tight. My guess is there is play in there somehow and it was there since day one, but is just showing up now. In other words there was little play when it all went together and now the bushing have loosend up a bit and the rocking is just making it worse. Reason I say this is I've had many of those axles lifted with up to 40's and hammered the crap out of them with 30 year old looking rubber bushings and never had that problem.
 

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could your trackbar be binding when the axle twists? having just bushings locating the axle (in two additional places on the cage arms) means that it will definantly give a little under a bit of torque. it will twist the other way in 4 wheel drive
 

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So you said they were tight, torque spec? Also, did you use locktight blue on install? I'll have to go pull my cage arm instructions to check the torque spec on these again.

yea Ox1, you would know. I know he has the cage arms and poly just like I do, but I can't imagine these should be doing this, and all I can think of is that they are loosening. I don't have 10k on mine yet, maybe half that, but no issues at all.
 

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he should know if the bolts are tight on the radius arm caps if there is no gap between the cap and the Cage arm part. you used a stock D44 so the <> deals are the right size for the arms to grip, maybe its just the bushings flexing normally but the clunk was something else and when you inspected it you saw the play in the <> deal??
 

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axaviere said:
he should know if the bolts are tight on the radius arm caps if there is no gap between the cap and the Cage arm part. you used a stock D44 so the <> deals are the right size for the arms to grip, maybe its just the bushings flexing normally but the clunk was something else and when you inspected it you saw the play in the <> deal??
Anything's possible, but I still suspect the caps. Torque spec on the bolts has everthing to do with them being to the point they are at now and still possibly "looking" tight".
 

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im just thinking that with the compression that the bushings require and the cushion that they have, the caps would have a gap between them and the arm that would be visible.

anything new gearhead?
 

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axaviere said:
. you used a stock D44 so the <> deals are the right size for the arms to grip, maybe its just the bushings flexing normally but the ?
not always. sometims on rusty axles they looe a good 1/4" of steel of the whole outside of the castings from flaking rust. you would be amazed how much rust wears off an old axle on the bushings when it gets put back into service.
 

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I checked the cage offroad instruction sheet this evening...the torque spec for the 4 9/16ths bolts should be 90-110, so I would recheck these as a simple start.
 

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GearHead said:
bolts are tight.
it was a florida axle. pretty much no rust on it when i got it.
keep the ideas coming guys.
I think you're going to need to jack up the front end so the front axle is dangling free and then grab a knuckle and pull forward/backward to help see what is going here. I mean, if that axle is really twisting some, then you need to confirm that the C bushings are allowing this, and if it's both sides. I wonder if one of the bushings could have actually split or something.

Is everything ok with the bushings/bolts that connect the cage arm to the cast cage cap?
 

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Just curious here. Why did you go with 2* bushings? I went with 6* when I did mine. I thought that is pretty much what everybody was running at the time when I did it. They were a real pain in the ass to get the front to bolt up the the back cap. I am not really sure how the Cage arms are. Arent they pretty much the same as Duff arms? What about the two bushings inbetween the arms and the back caps? The ones that go in sideways.
 

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slim said:
Just curious here. Why did you go with 2* bushings? I went with 6* when I did mine. I thought that is pretty much what everybody was running at the time when I did it. They were a real pain in the ass to get the front to bolt up the the back cap. I am not really sure how the Cage arms are. Arent they pretty much the same as Duff arms? What about the two bushings inbetween the arms and the back caps? The ones that go in sideways.
the cage arms already come equipped to deal with some lift, as they have 4.25* of caster correction built in. I used a 4* bushing, and it's too much for the 6" lift I ended up with. 2* sounds to me to be about right.

How tilted do your knuckles look? I thought the duff arms had the same 4* correction?
 

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Shadofax said:
the cage arms already come equipped to deal with some lift, as they have 4.25* of caster correction built in. I used a 4* bushing, and it's too much for the 6" lift I ended up with. 2* sounds to me to be about right.

How tilted do your knuckles look? I thought the duff arms had the same 4* correction?
They look fine to me. I am also using a six inch lift spring up front. If it wasent so shitty out I would take the front tires off and set the axle on jack stands and take pictures. How tilted should they look? Now you got me thinking I have about 10* in there. I have not had any problems with it YET. It has no problem returing to center.
 

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slim said:
They look fine to me. I am also using a six inch lift spring up front. If it wasent so shitty out I would take the front tires off and set the axle on jack stands and take pictures. How tilted should they look? Now you got me thinking I have about 10* in there. I have not had any problems with it YET. It has no problem returing to center.
Here is a good site as an FYI on steering basics, mainly just for anyone interested:

http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/062002_05.pdf#search='positive%20caster'

Here is the best pic I could find of mine that shows some obvious amount of positive caster. It's a little difficult to measure it on the vehicle, as best I can tell, I have about 8* positive caster:

 

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I have removed and installed c bushing on my 78 79 fsbs many times with energy urethane's i lube the hell out of them tightened the four bolts with a 1/2 inch impact on medium. Torqued to who the hell nows don't care axles have never moved or shifted bushing have never split in fifteen wears doing it that way on stock arms just my experience if your 44 is rotating when you hit the brakes your bushing are to loose if your cap and arm faces are flush you can shim with small steel plates to make the c bushing tighter when play is gone weld them on. there's probably a difference in manufacturing from aftermarket arms and stock urethane c bushing. I heard people having problems with aftermarket arms that's why i stayed with stock arms you can extend stocks arms but c bushings need to be face to face tight. To tight they'll split to loss they'll shift its a lot of work but its important to get it right for the road :thumbup​
 
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