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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1993 Ford Bronco XLT, Heater Core went out 2 weeks ago, since i am always working, I asked the wife to pick it up on her way home. She neglected to do so for a week. Finally she brought it home, and it was smoking, backfiring, and engine rocking like a hot rod. It is irradically idling, Jumping around from 300RPMS to 1200RPMS. had a huge bubble in the hose to the Heater Core. I changed the heater core, and hose, Had just completed a complete tune up a week before the Heater core went. New spark plugs fried... Yanked them and replaced them, and the new ones are now fried having the same issue... I have a Sphhhhhh Sphhhhh Sphhhhhhh kind of hissing coming from my air intake leading me to vacuum??? only other thing I can think of doing is a compression check to check the head, but I do not think that that is the issue, due to the hissing, I have already checked the timing, and that aint it. I also have black smoke at the tail pipe, and my plugs are fouling due to too much gas. They are soaked. Also it chokes when put in gear unless holding RPMS at 1500+.


Any thoughts, Please let me know, Thanks in Advance,
Kristafer
 

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and what did the temp gauge read when she got home? Im wondering since your heater core was leaking, it was driven on low coolant, and just overheated your engine...warping your heads... blowing gaskets...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Actually, Crash, I was thinking the same exact thoughts... Especially when I changed the heater core and got only maybe 1/4 gallon of water out of the radiator... However, the hissing from the Intake Man. is leading me to believe it is vacuum, I am getting a code 13 and 33 from the code scanner. Anyone with a code book, or list for that matter. Please let me know what these codes are.
 

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You could have done more than just blowing some gaskets and or warping a head. I would do a compression test and cylinder leak down test to get an idea of what kind of shape the cylinders and heads are in now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Alright, so Code 13 is referring to the irradic idling caused by problem (EGR VALVE)...???
DBBT Wouldn't I get a code if those were an issue??

If not, then I guess I will do the EGR Valve and then Go from there.

Thanks for the help guys... But thanks again for any future help :)
 

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my guess is that those codes are results of what a simple computer (OBD1) "thinks" the problem is as a result of other issues... even a OBD2 wont tell you that you have warpage on an intake or heads... those things cause other parts to malfunction as a result of running like crap i.e. intake leak... example: my 01 transam coded that my right and left banks were running lean... what caused this? the hose that connected to my PCV had a hole melted into it... hell I was thinking I made one mod too many since a week earlier I had just eliminated the resonating air intake with one from SLP and a smooth air bellows, right after putting on a ram air hood... I cleared the code and it came back in a week, I cleared it again and had a friend do a custom tune on it, just to make sure it wasnt running lean, and boom it came back two days later... I cleared it and then it would code every time I floored it... finally I go to put the old air intake back on to see and boom... hose burned up... replaced it, havent coded since... so sometimes it isnt that part that is failing, but the computer thinks it is as a result of another problem...

I would check for an intake leak first, then even if you find that it was leaking, do the compression test as you may have multiple problems from overheating, and if all that checks out good, then go to the EGR... you also should change your oil as the heat prolly did a number on it... and watch out for your oil filter gasket sticking to the block(as you always should, but overheating can bake it onto the block)... you certainly dont want to run the truck with a double gasket there...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank You again.

I am a complete, okay well not complete, but I know basics, not too extensively knowledgeable when it comes to automobiles. I guess I will go and get a compression tester on loan from AutoZone for the $38. How do I go about checking the Intake for a leak?
 

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The important thing to keep in mind about vacuum leaks is that they have the most noticeable effect at idle. At part and full throttle, there is so much air entering the engine that a little extra air from a vacuum leak has a negligible effect. you can spray carb cleaner in the suspected area and if the idle smooths out then youve found the leak... of course BE CAREFUL spraying a highly volatile substance in the engine compartment... Another way is to pressurize the intake manifold with about three lbs. of regulated air. This can be done by attaching a regulator to your shop air hose, then attaching the hose to a vacuum fitting or the PCV valve fitting on the intake manifold, or throttle body. Do not apply too much pressure or you may create new leaks! With the engine off and air flowing into the manifold, spray soapy water on suspected leaks. If you see bubbles, you have found the leak.
 

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To test for leaks: I use a gauged-hand held vacuum pump, plug it into a line and pump it up. This will show any leaks, should hold vacuum.

Your problem is weird, please come back and tell us what you found.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I AM A LUCKY MAN!!!! No damage to heads, and as far as I can tell so far, no damage to manifold... She is now running like a beast again, just have to go buy a gasket. Found it after a day at work, then pick-n-pull. When she over heated it, she cooked the EGR Valve, it is burnt up. It was not only stuck open, but also I got it to release and the plunger is about a half inch shorter now. Put the new one in and Voila, Now I just have to go to autozone, get the new gasket and rehook it up, as I am hissing from the gasket zone. thanks all for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Okay, so after I thought all was swell, it decided to go berzerk again, It is back to a code 33, and is a pita to fire, not to mention its doing its same old funky crap.

It apparently cleverly disguised itself as and EGR Valve, but is obviously not the issue... The EGR Valve is a problem being caused by another problem. Perhaps heads warped afterall? Anyone got any thought?
 

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do a compression test...

Also test your cooling system.. You can rent tools that you put on your radiator cap.. You build preassure and see if it holds.. If not you know you have a leak somewhere..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Alright, I am going to do a compression check, especially considering, it looks like something under the hood on the Driver side exploded, as there is watery oil all over on the driver side, only.
 

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If water and oil mixed then you got a head gasket problem.. or you've punched a hole in the block..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Been too busy with work to mess with it yet, However, I believe its the gasket, over a rod, for the fact, I heard nothing, no knock at all. Not to mention the entire Driver side of the hood compartment is soaked, from the hood down. If it were a rod, I would think it would be a bit of a different situation after some research...?
 
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