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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I have a 90 FSB with a 302 and an AOD. I have been having problems when I have been driving after a while it will start loosing power like it is running out of gas or has low fuel pressure. So I did some testing and sure enough not enough pressure. So in went a new fuel fitter and fuel pressure regulator. Same results so in goes a new fuel pump. Seems to be better, pressure is where it should be. yet after driving for a while (some times I get 50 miles, some times I get 3 miles) it does the same thing. Usually I can pull over, turn the truck off, wait like 30 seconds and start it again and I will get another 3 or 4 miles or so and I will do it again. Just to add in it has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, and the trimming was just checked and is right. Please chime in with some ideas. It is driving me nuts!!
 

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I've had a mustang with a similar problem. It was the ignition coil. It would break down after heating up. I think the same can be said about other ignition parts...such as plug wires. I see you replaced all that stuff, but you may want to resistance test them. I've bought bad ignition parts quite a few times. As a matter of fact, I once purchased 3 ignition coils before I finally got a good one (Advanced special). It may also be the pick-up coil in the distributor. Not sure how to test those. I've had a couple go bad, but if I remember correctly, they both just went dead. Just running a few suggestions up the flagpole to see who salutes.
 

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What was your fuel pressure?

Pull codes.
 

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I once had a rubber fuel line that would colapse on the suction side. Just something else you might want to check.
 

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my bko ate my money
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hey take your ignition module off your dizzy or if its remote mounted, off the fender, take it in to a parts store and have them test it, if your fuel press. is were it should be then its got something to do with the ignition, or a bad sensor somewhere

always pull codes first, then go from there,
 

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what about the O2 sensor couldn't that effect performance? Pull codes.
 

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Don't quote me on this, but I think that the 90 model Bronco has 2 fuel pumps. A feeder pump in the tank, and a pressure pump on the frame. I'd be willing to bet that the feeder pump in the tank is on the fritz.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Don't quote me on this, but I think that the 90 model Bronco has 2 fuel pumps. A feeder pump in the tank, and a pressure pump on the frame. I'd be willing to bet that the feeder pump in the tank is on the fritz.
i thougt two pumps also, but folowed the fuel lines from the tank to the front and only thing outside of the tank is the filter.

i hope to get a chance to work on it this weekend and see what i can figure out. thanks everyone for all the ideas. i will let ya know what i come up with.
 

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Mine's doing the same thing, just limped it home 30 miles by turning off the key, back on, build fuel pressure, crank and go till it starts missing and backfiring again.

i'm leaning toward teh tank filter/pump being clogged. I changed the in-line filter a couple days ago, and there was some nasty stuff that came out of that one.

I think i'm going to drop my tank and have a look, probably need to clean teh tank and will replace the pump assy while it's out.

I'm curious to see if your problem is the same, as the symptoms sound the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Mine's doing the same thing, just limped it home 30 miles by turning off the key, back on, build fuel pressure, crank and go till it starts missing and backfiring again.

I'm curious to see if your problem is the same, as the symptoms sound the same.
i hope i dont have to drop the tank seeing as all the tank bolts are rusted past recognition!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok, i pulled codes and got 3 codes (the truck isnt with me so this is as far as i have gotten).
14 c PIP circuit failure
34 orc EVP voltage above closed limit
81 o Air Management 2 (AM2) circuit failure

can some one point me to some more info or help explain in plain english what this means?
 

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You should try to diagnose and test first for resistance, the procedure is in the Haynes...................basically it's about signals to and from etc.
PIP = profile igniton pickup sensor or Hall Effect and is located on the distributor shaft inside so you have to pull the diisy out to replace the sensor by removing the dissy gear and roll pin, the sensor has a collar which slides on /off the shaft for R&R.

IIRC Napa has a Cardone dissy with TFI Module = thick film integrated and PIP for around $130.00 out the door with warranty...........................TFI Module is located directly on the side of the dissy with an ignition connector from the harness..

EVP is probably the EGR sensor on top of the EGR Valve so you'll need to test for resistance, Haynes etc.

Not sure about the last one , mine is an 86 BKO.......................

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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hhmmm... now my head is spinning more. lol!
Get a Haynes, follow the directions step by step. If that doesn't get you moving on the project, then it's time to let a mechanic deal with it.

What's your fuel pressure?
 
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