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Discussion Starter #1
My truck was running perfectly until one morning I started her up and the rpms sky rocketed to 2500 rpm and the exhaust fumes emitted were somewhat dark and almost smelled like natural gas. The CEL came on and then the rpms dropped to 1300ish rpms. I pulled the codes on my ‘94 5.8 and got: 654, 10, 128, 212, 111 (in that order). To be as helpful as possible I will mentioned that I recently installed led bulb taillights, led headlights, and swapped out the dash bulbs for green leds (she was running perfectly after for several days), don’t know if this might have something to do with it. I looked up the individual codes but I would like some suggestions and opinions as to where I should begin, don’t know what to test first. Sad part is this just happened after I was getting my truck ready for the lift kit :( Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you guys.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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first all of your codes should be 3 digit. Not sure where the 10 came from. Here you go in order:

111 System checks OK
128 (M) MAP vacuum has not been changing - check vacuum lines - ">MAP - if you haven't already, strongly suggest you check and replace all vacuum lines. that can cause all sorts of issues
212 (M) Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault - Ignition Systems - this could be caused by a bad pickup in your distributor.
654 (O) Transmission selector not in PARK - Transmissions

good luck
 
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first all of your codes should be 3 digit. Not sure where the 10 came from.
10 is a separator code.

Here you go in order:

111 System checks OK
128 (M) MAP vacuum has not been changing - check vacuum lines - ">MAP - if you haven't already, strongly suggest you check and replace all vacuum lines. that can cause all sorts of issues
212 (M) Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault - Ignition Systems - this could be caused by a bad pickup in your distributor.
654 (O) Transmission selector not in PARK - Transmissions

good luck
128 is suspect in your issue. Change out the MAP sensor and your idle problem will probably disappear. Make sure to disconnect your battery after doing so that way the computer will relearn the new part.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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interesting..Never seen a 10 separator code with any of my readers..I've got an old school scantool and an innova..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just ordered a new MAP sensor. As for codes 212 and 654 what do you guys think could be the issue?


For code 212 I'm going to check out the distributor as jermil01 recommended.
 

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212 is most likely the PIP in the distributor. It may not be faulty now, but it is sending the code. One day the truck won't start due to no spark.

654... Well :dunno was the truck in park? Is the shifter a little sloppy?
 

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Yo,
DTC 212;
"...Check to see if the spout connector is good by running a piece of wire where the connector is supposed to go. If that doesn't help any try checking the wiring all the way until it goes into the connectors..."
Source: by NoSlow5oh

212...IDM is a feedback signal generated by the ignition system and is monitored at pin #4 of the ECM. Its purpose is to diagnose missed ignition primary pulses at the time the ECM commands the Spout signal to fire the coil. Since it is used solely for diagnostic purposes, if this circuit is not operating properly, it will not affect vehicle driveability; & by Seattle FSB- The Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal is a diagnostic signal for the PCM to to verify a coil firing for each PIP signal. If an erratic or missing IDM signal is received, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC 212) is set. An occasional IDM signal may not affect drivability, but can still throw a trouble code. As SigEpBlue has stated, check for an intermittent ground on the spOUT and/or IDM circuit. Also, ensure that you have the correct Ignition Control Module (ICM) and it is wired correctly to the PCM..." Miesk5 NOTE; use BLACK CCD Ignition Modules in 94-96 Broncos
Source: by SMP via SigEpBlue (Steve) & by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at FSB


DTC 211 indicates two successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall. Possible causes: Loose wires/connectors. Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.). On-board transmitter (2-way radio).

ISSUE: '93-95 light truck vehicles with 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L, or 7.5L gas engines may exhibit various driveability symptoms, such as no start, no spark, hesitation/stumble/stall/miss and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211.

See TSB 95-15-11 Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark - DTC 211
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjADegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw2EyO4DSPLLIpe8Y1w9OyA7
See depictions.
Overview:The symptoms may occur during any drive mode or at idle. These concerns may be caused by the shielding drain wire (Circuit 48.) cutting through the insulation of, and shorting to, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) wire (Circuit 395) or the spark output (SPOUT) wire (Circuit 929) near the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 60-pin connector. A protruding wire from Splice 145 may also cause the same concern as the wire strand shorts to the PIP, SPOUT, or the foil wrap surrounding the drain wire.

ACTION: Inspect PIP - Circuit 395 (GY/O), Ignition Ground (IGN GND) - Circuit 259 (O/R), and SPOUT - Circuit 929 (PK) for possible cut insulation from Circuit 48. Also, inspect Splice 145 - Circuit 395 (GY/O) for stray wire strands. If wire insulation is cut, exposing copper wire, repair cut insulation with 3M Mastic Tape. Refer to the following procedure for service details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. If vehicle has the speed control option, remove the speed control servo bracket and position it out of the way for improved access.
3. Disconnect the connector at the Ignition Control Module (ICM - formerly TFI).
4. Unbolt the 60-pin connector from the PCM and pull the wiring up to work on.
5. Remove the 1" (25.4mm) diameter convoluted tubing from the wiring assembly. The date code tag will remain taped to the convoluted tubing.
6. Remove/cut the tape of the wiring assembly. Work toward the the ICM connector (pull back convoluted tubing as needed).
7. Unravel aluminum foil tape and electrical drain wire (Circuit 48.) from main bundle, exposing the junction or "Y" splice between the ICM tapeout and the PCM tapeout. Be careful with the foil wrap because it will be reused.
NOTE: THE FOIL WRAP LENGTH WILL BE ABOUT 5" (127mm) BEYOND THE "Y" BRANCH. THE END WILL BE TOWARD THE ICM CONNECTOR.
8. After the foil wrap is removed, look for the three (3) "grouped" wires in question at the "Y" splice. The three (3) wires are: PIP - Circuit 395 (GY/O), IGN GND - Circuit 259 (O/R), and SPOUT - Circuit 929 (PK).
9. Locate the (bare) electrical drain wire. Wire end is toward the ICM connector, again, about 5" (127mm) from the "Y" splice. Unravel wire from the top (ICM) end and down to the area where the bare wire makes contact with the three (3) wires mentioned above.
10. Inspect for any damage to the insulation of the three (3) wires in question. If wire insulation is cut, exposing copper wire, repair cut insulation with 3M Electrical Moisture Sealant-Mastic Tape (3M Part No. 054007-06147).
11. Inspect Splice 145 - Circuit 395 (GY/O) for stray wire strands (Figure 3). If stray wire is found, apply pressure on the wire with pliers to bend the wire down and wrap the splice with three (3) layers of flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent, to ensure the wire does not make contact with other wires or the foil wrap.
12. Carefully rewrap the bare electrical drain wire and foil. Work backward, toward the ICM connector end. Tape end of foil wrap to secure.
13. Retape worked area securely (between PCM and ICM connectors) with flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent.
14. Reinstall all convoluted tubing and tape ends of tubing to the tubing with flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent.
15. Reinstall PCM connector to the PCM.
16. Reinstall the ICM connector.
17. Reinstall the speed control servo bracket (two bolts) if applicable, and tighten bolts to 15-18 N-m (11-13 lb-ft).
18. Reconnect battery ground cable.

Miesk5 NOTE; use BLACK Motorcraft DY 1077 Ignition Modules in 94-96 Broncos. Rock Auto sells genuine ICMs
On 21 May, 2019 I purchased a 96 Ford Bronco 5.0 ignition control module, Motorcraft® DY 1077 from Rock Auto.

I received it 23 May and noticed the usual Motorcraft® logo wasn't impressed on it.
The box looked the same as what I have purchased in past from our local Ford dealership.

I e mailed Ford Global Brand Protection and asked, "is this is a genuine Motorcraft® part?"
Here's the reply;
"After reviewing the information you provided, the part you purchased appears to be genuine. The OE current model part does not have a Motorcraft/Ford logo on it and looks like the part in your photo. Since the vehicle model year for this part is very old the supplier of the part most likely has changed. Also we have not had any prior issues with Rock Auto selling non-genuine parts."
Lisa W.
Ford Motor Company
Global Brand Protection
"What Is Global Brand Protection?
The Global Brand Protection group exists to protect the consumer by ensuring high quality original equipment parts are used in your vehicle that are recommended by Ford Motor Company. Counterfeit products potentially compromise consumer expectations because they do not meet Ford Motor Company’s rigorous testing and quality control standards.

Global Brand Protection focuses on:
Preventing the distribution of and removing counterfeit parts from the marketplace
Ensuring that the company’s trademarks are used appropriately
Maintaining the integrity of the sale and distribution of Genuine Ford parts..."
Ford | Global Brand Protection
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wow, the legendary miesk5 chimed in on my threadn:notworthy. I have to read what you posted more closely because the diagnostic procedure appears to be complex, I’m more of a visual learner, lol



Yo,
DTC 212;
"...Check to see if the spout connector is good by running a piece of wire where the connector is supposed to go. If that doesn't help any try checking the wiring all the way until it goes into the connectors..."
Source: by NoSlow5oh

212...IDM is a feedback signal generated by the ignition system and is monitored at pin #4 of the ECM. Its purpose is to diagnose missed ignition primary pulses at the time the ECM commands the Spout signal to fire the coil. Since it is used solely for diagnostic purposes, if this circuit is not operating properly, it will not affect vehicle driveability; & by Seattle FSB- The Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal is a diagnostic signal for the PCM to to verify a coil firing for each PIP signal. If an erratic or missing IDM signal is received, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC 212) is set. An occasional IDM signal may not affect drivability, but can still throw a trouble code. As SigEpBlue has stated, check for an intermittent ground on the spOUT and/or IDM circuit. Also, ensure that you have the correct Ignition Control Module (ICM) and it is wired correctly to the PCM..." Miesk5 NOTE; use BLACK CCD Ignition Modules in 94-96 Broncos
Source: by SMP via SigEpBlue (Steve) & by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at FSB


DTC 211 indicates two successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall. Possible causes: Loose wires/connectors. Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.). On-board transmitter (2-way radio).

ISSUE: '93-95 light truck vehicles with 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L, or 7.5L gas engines may exhibit various driveability symptoms, such as no start, no spark, hesitation/stumble/stall/miss and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211.

See TSB 95-15-11 Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark - DTC 211
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjADegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw2EyO4DSPLLIpe8Y1w9OyA7
See depictions.
Overview:The symptoms may occur during any drive mode or at idle. These concerns may be caused by the shielding drain wire (Circuit 48.) cutting through the insulation of, and shorting to, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) wire (Circuit 395) or the spark output (SPOUT) wire (Circuit 929) near the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 60-pin connector. A protruding wire from Splice 145 may also cause the same concern as the wire strand shorts to the PIP, SPOUT, or the foil wrap surrounding the drain wire.

ACTION: Inspect PIP - Circuit 395 (GY/O), Ignition Ground (IGN GND) - Circuit 259 (O/R), and SPOUT - Circuit 929 (PK) for possible cut insulation from Circuit 48. Also, inspect Splice 145 - Circuit 395 (GY/O) for stray wire strands. If wire insulation is cut, exposing copper wire, repair cut insulation with 3M Mastic Tape. Refer to the following procedure for service details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. If vehicle has the speed control option, remove the speed control servo bracket and position it out of the way for improved access.
3. Disconnect the connector at the Ignition Control Module (ICM - formerly TFI).
4. Unbolt the 60-pin connector from the PCM and pull the wiring up to work on.
5. Remove the 1" (25.4mm) diameter convoluted tubing from the wiring assembly. The date code tag will remain taped to the convoluted tubing.
6. Remove/cut the tape of the wiring assembly. Work toward the the ICM connector (pull back convoluted tubing as needed).
7. Unravel aluminum foil tape and electrical drain wire (Circuit 48.) from main bundle, exposing the junction or "Y" splice between the ICM tapeout and the PCM tapeout. Be careful with the foil wrap because it will be reused.
NOTE: THE FOIL WRAP LENGTH WILL BE ABOUT 5" (127mm) BEYOND THE "Y" BRANCH. THE END WILL BE TOWARD THE ICM CONNECTOR.
8. After the foil wrap is removed, look for the three (3) "grouped" wires in question at the "Y" splice. The three (3) wires are: PIP - Circuit 395 (GY/O), IGN GND - Circuit 259 (O/R), and SPOUT - Circuit 929 (PK).
9. Locate the (bare) electrical drain wire. Wire end is toward the ICM connector, again, about 5" (127mm) from the "Y" splice. Unravel wire from the top (ICM) end and down to the area where the bare wire makes contact with the three (3) wires mentioned above.
10. Inspect for any damage to the insulation of the three (3) wires in question. If wire insulation is cut, exposing copper wire, repair cut insulation with 3M Electrical Moisture Sealant-Mastic Tape (3M Part No. 054007-06147).
11. Inspect Splice 145 - Circuit 395 (GY/O) for stray wire strands (Figure 3). If stray wire is found, apply pressure on the wire with pliers to bend the wire down and wrap the splice with three (3) layers of flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent, to ensure the wire does not make contact with other wires or the foil wrap.
12. Carefully rewrap the bare electrical drain wire and foil. Work backward, toward the ICM connector end. Tape end of foil wrap to secure.
13. Retape worked area securely (between PCM and ICM connectors) with flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent.
14. Reinstall all convoluted tubing and tape ends of tubing to the tubing with flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent.
15. Reinstall PCM connector to the PCM.
16. Reinstall the ICM connector.
17. Reinstall the speed control servo bracket (two bolts) if applicable, and tighten bolts to 15-18 N-m (11-13 lb-ft).
18. Reconnect battery ground cable.

Miesk5 NOTE; use BLACK CCD Ignition Modules in 94-96 Broncos
 

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For the 212 - check the color of the ICM, if it is gray it is the wrong color, it must be black. If the auto parts store tries to give you a gray replacement (many auto parts computers are wrong), ask them for an ICM for a '96 302 Mustang. When they come back with a black one, buy that one.
 
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When you put in the map the vacuum line is 7/32. The rest are 5/32. I went to Napa and got rubber vacuum hose. It was 8 bucks for 25 feet of the 5/32 and 5 ft of 7/32. You need 2 5/32 tees.

Here's a diagram that someone deserves credit for. This is me giving you credit.

Besides the map, the hvac line is 7/32.

And if the coffee can wasn't changed already:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005H7OIB8/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tees:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017UXJ8XE/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It took an hour I think. And I went really slow. There's my after. It's not fancy or colorful but it works.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
sackman9975 you were right about my rough idle (code 128) it was the map sensor! Took me all of 10 mins to install. I disconnected the battery and connected it back once the map sensor was in. The engine started at 1500 rpms and then dropped down to 600rpms a few secs later and the CEL vanished like magic. You guys on this forum truly are BKO wizards, I appreciate all the help sincerely. Now going to use the info you guys provided to tackle the 212 code before it becomes a problem.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter #12
That is a good idea but any noticeable benefit of upgrading the lines and the coffee can to the newer style if my lines appear to be working or in good shape?
When you put in the map the vacuum line is 7/32. The rest are 5/32. I went to Napa and got rubber vacuum hose. It was 8 bucks for 25 feet of the 5/32 and 5 ft of 7/32. You need 2 5/32 tees.

Here's a diagram that someone deserves credit for. This is me giving you credit.

Besides the map, the hvac line is 7/32.

And if the coffee can wasn't changed already:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005H7OIB8/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tees:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017UXJ8XE/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It took an hour I think. And I went really slow. There's my after. It's not fancy or colorful but it works.






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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sackman9975 you were right about my rough idle (code 128) it was the map sensor! Took me all of 10 mins to install. I disconnected the battery and connected it back once the map sensor was in. The engine started at 1500 rpms and then dropped down to 600rpms a few secs later and the CEL vanished like magic. You guys on this forum truly are BKO wizards, I appreciate all the help sincerely. Now going to use the info you guys provided to tackle the 212 code before it becomes a problem.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
That's awesome! Thanks for posting back and letting us know what fixed it. Helps others that stumble upon this thread.
 

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Most of the holes on my can were on the bottom of it. The top looked pretty good. But under the mating surface of the bracket to the bottom of the can was Swiss cheese.

I don't know if it is a common issue, but the black line leaving the can was melted where it bends around the back of the block on the right side.

I noticed immediate results when I changed mine.

The plastic can I listed can be found at the junk yard for cheap. I think explorers and 96 Broncos And f series got them stock (?)

If I didn't have to buy the plastic can, this would have been one of the best and cheapest things I've done to improve the overall pleasantness factor of driving my truck.
That is a good idea but any noticeable benefit of upgrading the lines and the coffee can to the newer style if my lines appear to be working or in good shape?






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Save yourself TONS of headache now and in the future. Address your VACUUM LINES FIRST. Its the cheapest and easiest thing to change. Change them one at a time. Get to know what each one does. There is a connector along the back of the engine for vacuum lines. I would just study the vacuum diagram very carefully, then replace all that old crappy line with silicon tubing. 4mm ID from siliconeintakes.com. you will need 20-25 feet of line and some vacuum fittings found in any auto parts store. They usually come as an assortment. You will need a couple of Elbows and Tee's for the Vacuum operated emissions and egr valve solenoids.

Heres a direct link to the size you need.

Silicone Boost Vacuum Hose


After you swap that out, and replace your MAP since you already ordered it, Clear the codes by removing the positive battery lead and ground it to the core support for 30 seconds. Then drive it for a day and check codes again.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Not sure if I should start a new thread but since the problem is similar to what I had before, I’ll post here jic. My truck is idling high again, out of the blue. As soon as I start her she revs up to 1500rpm and stays there. My vacuum lines look good and I don’t hear any hissing leaks. I replaced my map sensor about 2-3 years ago. My CEL came on and the only codes I pulled are: 126, 654, and the 212 code that I never fixed. While my truck is idling high, I disconnected the map sensor and there was no difference in idle speed. What do you guys propose to fix the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I ordered a new oem Motorcraft MAP sensor, should arrive this week. Let’s see if it gets rid of my 126 code.
 

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@hcoll - is your Bronco a '92-'96? if so, the 212 code most likely is because you have the wrong ICM. Look at the ICM and see if it is black. Many (most) parts places have the wrong ICM in their computer databases. If you have a grey one, and the parts place wants to sell you another grey one, tell them to sell you an ICM for a '95 Mustang 302. When the come out with a black ICM, buy that one and then find a better parts place to get the rest of your parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I might just buy one on rockauto. Do you have a part number I can use?

@hcoll - is your Bronco a '92-'96? if so, the 212 code most likely is because you have the wrong ICM. Look at the ICM and see if it is black. Many (most) parts places have the wrong ICM in their computer databases. If you have a grey one, and the parts place wants to sell you another grey one, tell them to sell you an ICM for a '95 Mustang 302. When the come out with a black ICM, buy that one and then find a better parts place to get the rest of your parts.
 

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Do you have a part number I can use?
Refer to this thread: Ford TFI Ignition Control Modules

Remote Mount Black CCD "Computer Controlled Dwell" ICM

Motorcraft - DY1077 (supercedes DY679, DY667, DY645)
Ford - 5U2Z-12A297-D (supercedes F1PZ-12A297-A)
Wells - F139
Niehoff - FF413
BWD - CBE40
Standard - LX-241
NapaEchlin - TP29
Delphi - DS10056
Transpo - FM544
 
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