Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My name is Danny i bought my 94 Eddie Bauer bronco 5.0 about a year ago. My grandmother passed and left me some money so I bought the truck. It cost me 3500 and I have put over 3000 into it. It runs great except one issue. I am no guru on vehicles but I'm learning but I'm at my wits and pockets end and I'm thinking of selling. It has this problem where upon starting to drive or while driving it won't shift untill about 3000 rpms and than it hops or slams to the next gear just to rev up to 3000 again to hop and slam into another gear. Also it wont shift at 50 mph unless I release my foot from the gas a little than it will shift down. It's starting to get me a little worried I love the truck and it reminds me of the last thing a loved one gave me but I don't know what's wrong with it should I part with it or is it worth fixing please help!!!
 

·
I scrape on both sides
Joined
·
3,035 Posts
very simple thing to check for, pull out the dipstick tube and see how the fluid looks/smells and if you can see particles in it, could be that your just low on fluid too if its revving that high to shift
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
give us a little more information

assuming its a 94 with 302 and E4OD

what have you fixed and or replaced so far, what is the condition of the tranny fluid, any history of a tranny rebuild, have you pulled codes yet, etc

the more info you provide the easier it is for people to diagnose
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
My transmission fluid? I mean hopefully I'm describing it right I have tried to explain to mechanics and they don't know what I mean they just here shifting and they go $4000. I have pulled the tranny Dipstick before it was red and siding feel gritty. But than again I haven't had like a cleaning or flush of my tranny line. Yeah some times it's okay maybe shifts a little hard but sometimes it will feel heavy and it will rev all the way to 3000 than the whole truck like hops to another gear
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
New parts: alternator, starter, gas tank, breaks, belts, replaced a solenoid by the battery some front ed work it is a 94 302 I haven't not pulled codes I don't know what that means like I said wet behind the ears. It has no history of tranny rebuilds
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
red is good... does it smell burnt at all?

use search to find how to pull codes, or take to a retail auto parts store, they will usually read codes for free. make sure you write down all the codes you get.

if tranny fluid is full and in good condition there are a few sensors that control the E4OD, might need to replace them. search for "E$OD diagnosis" thread for more info

dont pay 4k for a tranny rebuild, thats highway robbery!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
New parts: alternator, starter, gas tank, breaks, belts, replaced a solenoid by the battery some front ed work it is a 94 302 I haven't not pulled codes I don't know what that means like I said wet behind the ears. It has no history of tranny rebuilds
umm since ur still wet behind the ears, and not alot of people know when u check ur fluid make sure its running in park or neutral (if u do neutral, set the e-brake) and wait for it to get to operating temp. pull the stick and dont turn it upside down cause the fluid will run down and give u a false reading. Also it always good practice at least for me to get a white paper towel and wipe the stick with that so u can see what it looks like aswell as see if theres any grit or chunks, also u can smell it if its burnt. I like to put a dab of fresh atf next to it for comparison, but im also anal on my fluids.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Was this tranny issue happening when you first bought the truck? Or is this something that happened after the buy? And if it happened after you bought it, did you do anything in conjunction with the tranny?

Also, have you personally taken a gander down under and visually looked all around the tranny and transfer case for any electrical plugs or hoses lose or hanging or anything that does not look like it is suppose to be there or the like?

And does this happen as soon as you start it up for the first time everyday, or does this happen when the engine and tranny are warmed up, or does it get better after it warms up?
I have been underneathe both my dad and I he knows some about trucks but I live in florida now so I'm on my own. Everything looks copesetic. There is one hose that is hangin but my old mechanic said it was just a pressure release hose it's more near the front. It happens sometimes right when I start up and drive or it will happen like when I'm cruising between 30 and 40 it won't kick down it will stay reving up untill I get to 45 mph than it will shift. Then if I come to a stop it will do the rev to 3000 than slam into gear
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,312 Posts
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13

this gives you instructions on how to pull codes. someone mentioned to do this, and you said you didnt know what it was or how so here you are. it may reveal something and it may not. worth a shot though.

good luck, and we'll get your bronco problem figured out :thumbup
 

·
A broke kid with a bronco
Joined
·
4,065 Posts
Does the over drive light flash. Does the over drive light turn amber when the button is pressed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
665 Posts
Should be an electrical connector near the transfer case male/female type. Get under there pull it apart and clean it with some electrical cleaner, q tips, toothbrush etc. to make sure its getting a good connection. Worth a shot before you decide to sell.

Also might drop the trans. pan replace filter (about $10) and refill with fluid. This one can get messy so have some shop towels handy.

Couple of quick cheap jobs that couldn't hurt. Do a search on here and you can find tons of info. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,467 Posts
Not to step on the toes of anyone who had given you lots of good advice. but you stated
I have pulled the tranny Dipstick before it was red and siding feel gritty.
I dodn't know what "siding feel gritty" means, but gritty is not good, and an immediate fluid change is in order.

Also you may want to pull diagnostic trouble codes.
Pull Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) From your onboard computer.
Your engine and transmission are computer controlled.
The computer uses sensors to tell it a number of different things and it controls actuators that push or pull mechanical levers (kinda). If one or more sensors aren't working properly, the computer goes "blind" and doesn't know what to do. If the computer can "see" but one of the actuators is broken and therefore can't follow the commands of the computer; the engine won't run correctly. The computer is preprogrammed with set values for each of its sensors, and each of its actuators. It will run a self check of all systems, like the space shuttle; it will compare its set value(s) to the value(s) it recieves from its sensors, and actuators. If any sensor or acutator is out of the "normal" range the computer will generate a "code." It will generate some codes on the fly, and others will be stored while you are driving. There is a simple method to "pull codes" out of the computer for one to use for diagnostic purposes.
Earlier versions of On Board Diagnostics OBD 1983-1995 can flash the error code to the dash board and can be pulled in one's driveway without any special tools.
Later versions of On Board Diagnostics OBDII some 1995, and pretty much all 1996 and newer, require one to use a code reader or scanner tool.
Some auto parts stores will scan your engine codes for FREE, you may want to call around. Some will scan OBDII but not the older (prior to 1996) OBD systems.
SO here you go...
How to scan FORD on board Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in your driveway

HowTo Pull Codes 1983-1995 Broncos, Mustang, F series Trucks, Econolines, 302, 351 and more
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
26,984 Posts
yo,
I agree w/using BroncoJoe's Key On Engine Off (KOEO) & Key On Engine Running (KOER).

& Not to step on Fireguy's or CW's toes here; Fireguy has to include his KOER portion in the Link that CWbronco took time to post here. Fireguy does have it in his site, but it should be included or at least a Hot Link shown.

Fluid Level Check in a 96; Following is from my 96's Owner's Guide; same as your year; It is preferable to check the transmission fluid level at normal operating temperature 150°F-170°F (66°C-77°C), after approximately 20 miles (32 km) of driving. However, if necessary, you can check the fluid level without having to drive 20 miles (32 km) to obtain a normal operating temperature if outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). NOTE: If the vehicle has been operated for an extended period at high speeds or in city traffic during hot weather, or pulling a trailer, the vehicle should be turned off for about 30 minutes to allow the fluid to cool before checking. With the vehicle on a level surface, start the engine and move the transmission shift selector through all of the gear ranges allowing sufficient time for each position to engage. Securely latch the transmission shift selector in the Park (P) position, fully set the parking brake and leave the engine running. NOTE: Vehicles equipped with the 4x4 option must have the 4x4 shift selector in any position other than neutral.
WARNING Your vehicle should not be driven if the fluid level is below the bottom hole on the dipstick and outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C).Wipe off the dipstick cap, pull the dipstick out and wipe the indicator end clean. Put the dipstick back into the filler tube and make sure it is fully seated. Pull the dipstick out and read the fluid level. When checking fluid at normal operating temperature, the fluid level should be within the crosshatched area on the dipstick. When the vehicle has not been driven, and outside temperature is above 50°F (10°C), the fluid level should be between the holes on the dipstick. Adding Automatic Transmission Fluid
The fluid type is stamped on the dipstick. Before adding any fluid, be sure that the correct type will be used. Add fluid in 1/2 pint (.25L) increments through the filler tube to bring the level to the correct area on the dipstick. If an overfill occurs, excess fluid should be removed.


Don't buy any parts yet until you finish the Code tests.

A possibility;
Erratic/Hard Shifting Due to Short Circuits, Common Locations TSB 95-02-11 in 94-95 Bronco & Trucks (Also happened in our 96 w/E4OD); Miesk5 NOTE; See: C. & D. Erratic/Hard Shifting
Source: by Ford via Chilton
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
My 94 was doing that, twice over the years, about 13 years that is, and both times it was the Manual lever position Sensor (MLPS), or at auto parts stores Known as A Neutral Safety switch. Mine has the 5.8 with E40d tranny, But the Duralast part # is 2223301 F433. Mine would also just go into neutral radomly. Check it out. Also fully service tranny with 14 Quarts of new fluid and filter. ( With draining the Torque converter, got about seven quarts of it alone.)
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top