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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I've got my new Wagner cable for the Right Rear parking brake and I cannot seem to get the spring compressed well enough to give the the slack I need to install it on the self adjusting block. There's no adjustment allowed on the '92-96 models and I'm about 2 inches too short. Is there such a thing as a spring compressor that's small enough to use on the brake drum end of the cable? I tried using zip ties but the only ones small enough to get into the spring broke. There's no screw/bolt tension adjuster as was on the older(pre '92) models.

Any pointers? Options? Ideas? I'm all out. And, yes, I'm sure I've got the RR cable and not accidentally the Left Rear cable. That was my first thought but there's obviously a difference in length between the two.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Wow. Nobody's ever had to replace their brake cable before on the newer Bronco? Something I hadn't done and only really thought about late last night was that I haven't actually gotten my brakes back together yet so I'm going to put everything back into the drum when I get the time and see if, maybe, that will get the spring compressed down a bit better.
 

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yo John.
Parking Brake Service Procedure TSB 00-01-03 for 92-94 Bronco & F Series Built Through 4/22/1994 & 93-94 Ranger & Explorer Built Through 5/13/1994 (Scroll Down)
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/283545_1
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/283545_1
Parking Brake Cables ('92-96)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 Control Assembly 2780
2 2 Nut M8 x 1.25 Hex Flange 17-23 N-m (13-17 Ft-Lb) N620481-S
3 Cable Assembly, Front 2853
4 Cable Assembly, Intermediate 2A793
5 Equalizer 2A602
6 Bracket 2530
7 Rivet N647097-S
8 Clip, 10 x 10 N800962-S32
9 Screw, Tap 5/16-18 x 3/4 Hex Washer Head 24-30 N-m (18-22 Ft-Lb) 40949-S2
10 Cable and Conduit Assembly, Right 2A635 (Wagner BC132090 / BC94490)
11 Cable and Conduit Assembly, Left 2A809
12 Clip N804729-S11
13 Screw and Washer 5/16 x 18 x .50 Hex Head 17-23 N-m (13-17 Ft-Lb) 57632-S2
14 Steering Column Support 3B139

Park Brake Cable Removal
1.Remove the left kick panel.
2. Disconnect the parking brake indicator light switch connector at the control assembly.
3. Remove the three nuts holding the control assembly to the steering column support. Pull the control assembly away from the steering column support.
4. Relieve tension on the parking brake system by having an assistant pull on the intermediate cable until all cable is unwound from the control assembly.
5. Insert a 5/32-inch drill bit or equivalent into the hole provided in the control assembly.
6. Disconnect the front cable from the cable connector.
7.Disconnect the barrel end of the cable from the control assembly.
8.Disconnect the cable conduit from the control assembly by inserting a 1/2-inch 12-point box end wrench over the conduit snap fitting to compress the retaining fingers and backing out the snap fitting.

Installation
1. Route the cable end fitting over the cable shoe. Snap the conduit fitting into the control assembly housing. Insert the barrel end into the hole in the track.
2. Position the control assembly to the steering column support and install the three retaining nuts. Tighten to 17-23 N-m (13-17 ft-lb).
3. Connect the front cable to the cable connector.
4. Connect the parking brake indicator light switch connector.
5. Carefully remove the drill bit from the control assembly. NOTE: The control assembly will tension itself when the drill bit is removed.
6. Operate the parking brake pedal several times. Rotate both rear wheels to be sure that the parking brakes are not dragging.
7. Install the left kick panel.

==========

& read the This notice is sent to you in accordance with the requirements of the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act.

Ford Motor Company has determined that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in certain 1992-1994 Model Year Bronco, F-150-350 Series Trucks and 1993-1994 Model Year Explorer/Ranger vehicles.
Safety Defect
During rapid pedal application of the parking brake, the pedal may go to the floor with little or no effort. Should this occur, the parking brake system may not achieve full tension, potentially resulting in parking brake ineffectiveness, or diminished effectiveness.
Repairs
At no charge to you, your dealer will install a parking brake lock-in wedge. This wedge retains the adjustment pawl in mesh with the ratchet. Dealers currently have instructions and parts ordering information.
WARNING: DO NOT PARK THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL. USE FIRST (1) GEAR AND SET THE PARKING BRAKE FULLY.
NOTE: When the transfer case is in the N (Neutral) Position, the engine and transmission are disconnected from the rest of the driveline. Therefore, the vehicle is free to roll even if the manual transmission is in gear. Do not leave the vehicle unattended with the transfer case in N (Neutral).
NOTE: Always set the parking brake fully and turn off the ignition when leaving the vehicle. Make sure that the gearshift is securely positioned in First (1) gear.
How Long Will It Take?
The time needed for this service is about one-half hour. However, due to service scheduling times, your dealer may need your vehicle for one full working day.
Call your dealer without delay. Ask for a service date and whether parts are in stock. If your dealer does not have the parts in stock, they can be ordered before scheduling your service date. Parts would be expected to arrive within a week.
When you bring your truck in, show the dealer this letter. If you misplace this letter, your dealer will still do the work, free of charge.
AFFECTED VEHICLES:
CERTAIN 1992-1994 BRONCO, F-150/350 SERIES TRUCKS AND CERTAIN 1993-1994 EXPLORER/RANGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS
OVERVIEW
The parking brake procedures described in this attachment supersede all previous parking brake procedures.
The following instructions have been revised to make them easier to follow. Special emphasis is placed on the installation of the lock-in wedge and verifying that the wedge is properly installed. When installed properly, the wedge WILL NOT fall out.
Except where noted, the illustrations included here are of the Bronco/F-Series. The Explorer/Ranger are similar. PLEASE FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY.
NOTE: This recall applies to PARKING BRAKES ONLY. The service brake system is not affected by this recall.
PRELIMINARY CHECKS
1. Park the vehicle on a flat surface. Turn the ignition OFF. Do not apply the parking brake.
2. Check the parking brake control assembly to see if it is a “Cam-In-Post” design. The “Cam-In-Post” design control assembly does not require installation of the lock-in wedge. If the vehicle has a “Cam-In-Post” design control assembly, return the vehicle to the owner.

========
TSB 00-01-03 PARKING BRAKE - PROCEDURE FOR SERVICING PARKING BRAKE - SERVICE TIP - BRONCO AND F-SERIES BUILT THROUGH 4/22/1994 AND EXPLORER/RANGER BUILT THROUGH 5/13/1994

Publication Date: DECEMBER 22, 1999

FORD: 1992-94 BRONCO, F-150-350 SERIES
1993-94 EXPLORER, RANGER

ISSUE: When servicing the parking brake or service brake systems where the lock-in wedge has been installed in the parking brake control, additional service procedures will be necessary.

ACTION: When a lock-in wedge part has been previously installed in the parking brake control assembly, it must be removed prior to conducting maintenance procedures from the appropriate Service Manual, Sections 06-04 (Rear Drum Brakes) and 06-05 (Parking Brake System). The wedge must be reinstalled after service is completed. Refer to Service Recall Bulletin 94S91-S3 for lock-in wedge part removal and installation detailed service procedures, part numbers, and diagrams. Be sure to inspect the wedge for damage. If any part of the wedge is broken or damaged, install a new wedge.


==========

&
TSB 98-5A-35 Rear Parking Brake Cables Bind - Vehicles Built Before 8/20/96, except chassis cab
Publication Date: MARCH 18, 1998
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK, thanks. I couldn't get a good visual on the parking brake lever last night while I was crawling around but hopefully I can do a better job of investigating the lever when I get home today if it's not too late. I had considered detaching it from the pedal but then wondered if it would "shorten" the length after I got the new cable on. I'm worried that I may also need to replace the Left Rear cable also since it looks like the connected length is a inch or three shorter than the one on the left. I'm Hopeful , once I get the brakes back together it will somewhat equal out. I bought the Wagner brake cable instead of the off brand thinking it would be closer to OEM and the Ford Dealership wanted twice as much PLUS extra shipping charges to get it from their warehouse.
 

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yo John
I hear ya on the $
Check w/another dealer for S&H $; my former (had to close) dealer parts manager never charged for anything that needed to be pulled from another dealer or wherever.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK, got the assembly unbolted but there's no hole as in the instructions for the drill bit to move into and drive out the cable.
Here's my front side:


Here's the back side. That small hole near the main pivot doesn't appear to be the hole in the instructions. I don't see anything through that hole other than the brake pedal and there's now connector for the cable there.
 

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yo John
Was about to Log off wehen I got the message;
is that the hole in bottom pic
near that Bolt head in center at 2 o'clock position?
 

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yo john

another diagram from my 96..


Disconnect the parking brake signal switch and bracket connector at the parking brake control (2780).

Relieve tension on the parking brake system by having an assistant pull directly rearward on the intermediate cable until all front parking brake cable and conduit (2853) is unwound from the parking brake control. Be careful not to damage the coating on the parking brake cable.

Insert a 4mm (0.156-inch) drill bit or equivalent size pin into the hole provided in the parking brake control.


Remove the parking brake control and front cable from the vehicle.

Disconnect the barrel end of the front parking brake cable and conduit from the parking brake control.

Disconnect the cable conduit from the parking brake control by inserting a 1/2-inch 12-point box end wrench over the conduit snap fitting to compress the retaining fingers. Back out the snap fitting.

Installation

Route the cable end fitting over the cable shoe. Snap the conduit fitting into the parking brake control. Insert the barrel end into the hole in the track.

Position the parking brake control to the steering column support bracket and install the three retaining nuts. Tighten to 17-23 Nm (13-17 lb-ft).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, I've decided that the Wagner cable just isn't long enough. I'm looking for a OEM Motorcraft cable now. I've found a partial part number 2A635. From what I can tell it's only a designation for Right Rear Brake cable. I can't find the actual prefix code for the specific RR cable for the 92 Bronco and It's nowhere to be found on the cable itself. Anyone got any places they like to buy OEM stuff from without getting beaten by the dealership?



OK, never mind. Found it.
F6TZ2A635BB Right Rear Cable
F6TZ2A635BA Left Rear Cable


Now I just need to find a place that's least expensive.
 

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Hook the new Wagner cable to the e-brake lever inside the drum. Pull the single cable from the pedal rearward out of its sheath & lock it with vise grips on the cable against the end of the sheath. Do the same to each wheel's cable. Then connect them to the equalizer, and release the vise grips. If you can't quite get the last cable connected, back off BOTH of the autoadjusters in the drums and try again. Click this, read the caption, then go to the NEXT and continue until you're out of the pics that deal with drum brakes:

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the links. I found a site for a Ford dealership in Seattle Wa. what has it listed for $51.85. www.partsguyed.com I called around to a couple of other dealerships in my area and one of them discounted the $72 to $57 so I'll be picking it up tomorrow.

Steve! Welcome back Bro. I hope to see you around a little more. Thanks for those pointers. I'll do that after I pick up the other part tomorrow.

I decided there just wasn't something right about the Wagner part. Even taking into consideration the 20 years of stretching the OEM, I decided I'd feel better by going with the same exact Motorcraft part instead. Brakes just aren't something I want to take a chance and go cheap on.

I still don't get it though how the service directions show the hole for that drill bit to loosen and remove the forward cable and mine doesn't have it. I wonder if I somehow have a mid-model part substitution where I may have gotten a '91 parking brake with '92 components.
 

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Thanks for the links. I found a site for a Ford dealership in Seattle Wa. what has it listed for $51.85. www.partsguyed.com I called around to a couple of other dealerships in my area and one of them discounted the $72 to $57 so I'll be picking it up tomorrow.

I still don't get it though how the service directions show the hole for that drill bit to loosen and remove the forward cable and mine doesn't have it. I wonder if I somehow have a mid-model part substitution where I may have gotten a '91 parking brake with '92 components.
yo John,

Good on that discount price! I miss our local Dealership parts manager and employees; they would order a part in w/just a call and offer the discount w/out asking.
And their $9.99 Oil, filter, lube and system tests (charging/starting); w/fluid checks/top-offs (on Dana 44, E4OD, 8.8 and BW 1356 got me lazy, but saved me $$. They did go up to $12.99 in last year they were opened, but I didn't complain.

Ford made many mid & later MY changes through the year, from locking hub designs to tranny types.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK, got the Motorcraft part and compared it to the Wagner part. There was clearly at least a 1 inch difference in the length between the OEM and the aftermarket part. Lesson learned. Put the Ford part in and had the brakes adjusted and driving in about 30 minutes after I started. The hardest part was getting the new cable into the holder on top of the Differential. The new part was a bit bigger in diameter. Along with the tip from Steve83(thanks again) using a pair of padded vice grips to hold the cable after pulling it out, it went right together.

Lesson learned. If it's a critical part, I'm going OEM.
 

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Yes please do so others don't make that mistake. I was kinda tempted to have Advance order the other two options for brake lines just to check them out too but just got fed up with it and ordered the Ford part instead.
 

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Here Ya go for Reference sake. The Wagner is on the Left and even with the slight curve to consider it is still shorter than the OEM Ford part on the Right. Also, look at the connecting clip at the base. The OEM part has the clip going over the coil so it still has more compression length than the Wagner part that has a solid metal fitting at the clip point.

 

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Had the same problem - turns out aftermarket parts aren't all created equal. For my 1993 Bronco, the O'reilly's brakebest cables didn't fit, the comparison that I pulled together makes me think Raybestos is the way to go.

Front
Brake Best - Cable Length (in): 44-11/16 Inch
Raybestos - Cable Length, Overall 45.500 in
Dorman - 44.69" long

Intermediate
Brake Best - Cable Length (in): 18-13/16 Inch
Raybestos - Cable Length, Overall 20.000 in
Dorman - 18.81 inches

Rear left
Brake Best - Cable Length (in): 59-1/16 Inch
Raybestos - Cable Length, Overall 60.500 in
Dorman - 59.05
AC Delco - Cable: 60.5",

Rear right
Brake Best - Cable Length (in): 92-1/4 Inch
Raybestos - Cable Length, Overall 93.250 in
Dorman - cable length is 92.28"
ACDelco - Cable: 93-1/4"




OK, I've got my new Wagner cable for the Right Rear parking brake and I cannot seem to get the spring compressed well enough to give the the slack I need to install it on the self adjusting block. There's no adjustment allowed on the '92-96 models and I'm about 2 inches too short. Is there such a thing as a spring compressor that's small enough to use on the brake drum end of the cable? I tried using zip ties but the only ones small enough to get into the spring broke. There's no screw/bolt tension adjuster as was on the older(pre '92) models.

Any pointers? Options? Ideas? I'm all out. And, yes, I'm sure I've got the RR cable and not accidentally the Left Rear cable. That was my first thought but there's obviously a difference in length between the two.

Thanks
 
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