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My bronco has been a lemon since about a week after i bought it. Ive had the brake pads brake in half and depressurize my master cylinder, a u joint with no evidence of grease sheer off and just this morning im pretty sure my transfer case shelled out. im dead in the water.

recently ive been leaning towards just getting the gal through the winter with minimal cost until i can find/ afford a cleaner bronco. Shes real rusty. rust holes in the bed area, big holes in the quarter panels, rockers, tailgate, and other parts of the floor pan. I didnt notice it was so bad upon my intial purchase because the previous owner did a good job of hiding most everything. everywhere i turn i find something that has been cobbled together or jerry rigged and is causing me a lot of headaches.

that being said, i used my 4wd for about ten minutes saturday and she slipped out of gear midway through the trip with a loud grinding sound. I pulled off the road and put it back into 2hi and disengaged my hubs and she still didnt want to shift out of 4wd but eventually did or so i thought. this morning i drove about two miles before she did the same thing again, only she wont budge. just grinds and grinds unless the t case is in nuetral or the transmission is in neutral and even then it grinds for about 5-10 seconds until it winds down. i noticed that there was a decent amount of fluid on the bottom of the case and so i filled her up, she took a lot of fluid. the sound isnt as horrible, but still no movement. the fluid was a last ditch hail mary to see if i could limp her home.

im at a loss right now and do not know what to do. if the body was in good enough shape, id fix her up in a heartbeat with the information available on this forum, but i was already considering this vehicle as a short term solution. I LOVE the motor though and thats what makes it hard. its a efi 4.9 that runs strongly and seems to be a rarity in the bronco.

the local junkyard will give me $375 with the motor and them towing it. 5 years ago i got 500 for a 93 buick lesabre so i feel like that is a pretty low number.

WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK??
 

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My bronco has been a lemon since about a week after i bought it. Ive had the brake pads brake in half and depressurize my master cylinder, a u joint with no evidence of grease sheer off and just this morning im pretty sure my transfer case shelled out. im dead in the water.

recently ive been leaning towards just getting the gal through the winter with minimal cost until i can find/ afford a cleaner bronco. Shes real rusty. rust holes in the bed area, big holes in the quarter panels, rockers, tailgate, and other parts of the floor pan. I didnt notice it was so bad upon my intial purchase because the previous owner did a good job of hiding most everything. everywhere i turn i find something that has been cobbled together or jerry rigged and is causing me a lot of headaches.

that being said, i used my 4wd for about ten minutes saturday and she slipped out of gear midway through the trip with a loud grinding sound. I pulled off the road and put it back into 2hi and disengaged my hubs and she still didnt want to shift out of 4wd but eventually did or so i thought. this morning i drove about two miles before she did the same thing again, only she wont budge. just grinds and grinds unless the t case is in nuetral or the transmission is in neutral and even then it grinds for about 5-10 seconds until it winds down. i noticed that there was a decent amount of fluid on the bottom of the case and so i filled her up, she took a lot of fluid. the sound isnt as horrible, but still no movement. the fluid was a last ditch hail mary to see if i could limp her home.

im at a loss right now and do not know what to do. if the body was in good enough shape, id fix her up in a heartbeat with the information available on this forum, but i was already considering this vehicle as a short term solution. I LOVE the motor though and thats what makes it hard. its a efi 4.9 that runs strongly and seems to be a rarity in the bronco.

the local junkyard will give me $375 with the motor and them towing it. 5 years ago i got 500 for a 93 buick lesabre so i feel like that is a pretty low number.

WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK??
Sounds to me like the PO was an asshat who beats the shit out of stuff, covers it up and sells it off.
Mechanical stuff isn't hard to fix, you just gotta know what you're looking at. Rust is a bigger concern, how hard it is to fix depends on how bad it is. Wether its worth fixing depends on where you are. Down here rusted out trucks aren't worth anything because there simply aren't very many.
That being said, the truck itself isn't a lemon and won't give you problems forever. The bottom line is all the problems your having are the result of negligence.
 

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'91 5.0 E4OD, 6" long-arm lift, shackle-flip, 35" Procomp M/Ts, 4.56 gears & lockers
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My bronco has been a lemon since about a week after i bought it. Ive had the brake pads brake in half and depressurize my master cylinder, a u joint with no evidence of grease sheer off and just this morning im pretty sure my transfer case shelled out. im dead in the water.

recently ive been leaning towards just getting the gal through the winter with minimal cost until i can find/ afford a cleaner bronco. Shes real rusty. rust holes in the bed area, big holes in the quarter panels, rockers, tailgate, and other parts of the floor pan. I didnt notice it was so bad upon my intial purchase because the previous owner did a good job of hiding most everything. everywhere i turn i find something that has been cobbled together or jerry rigged and is causing me a lot of headaches.

that being said, i used my 4wd for about ten minutes saturday and she slipped out of gear midway through the trip with a loud grinding sound. I pulled off the road and put it back into 2hi and disengaged my hubs and she still didnt want to shift out of 4wd but eventually did or so i thought. this morning i drove about two miles before she did the same thing again, only she wont budge. just grinds and grinds unless the t case is in nuetral or the transmission is in neutral and even then it grinds for about 5-10 seconds until it winds down. i noticed that there was a decent amount of fluid on the bottom of the case and so i filled her up, she took a lot of fluid. the sound isnt as horrible, but still no movement. the fluid was a last ditch hail mary to see if i could limp her home.

im at a loss right now and do not know what to do. if the body was in good enough shape, id fix her up in a heartbeat with the information available on this forum, but i was already considering this vehicle as a short term solution. I LOVE the motor though and thats what makes it hard. its a efi 4.9 that runs strongly and seems to be a rarity in the bronco.

the local junkyard will give me $375 with the motor and them towing it. 5 years ago i got 500 for a 93 buick lesabre so i feel like that is a pretty low number.

WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK??
I don't know enough to advise whether you should just ditch it, that's your call, but I just finished rebuilding my t-case. Although it was a BW1356, the NP208 doesn't look that different. Sounds like yours leaked all the fluid out and messed some stuff up, probably a shift fork or range slider. If all it'd take to get it up and running again is a functional t-case, they're not that hard or expensive to rebuild yourself. Or you can source one from a junkyard.

What I found with the BW1356 is that you can pay $1k+ to have someone rebuild it for you, you can order a remanufactured one with a one-year warranty for $600, you can find one at a junk yard for ????, or rebuild it yourself for around $100-$200. If your chain is stretched or your planetary needs to be replaced, those are the spendy parts. But otherwise, a bearing and seal kit, pump, forks, hub, tube of RTV and a couple qts atf can all be had for around $200 or less. Good luck.
 

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I had a F-150 that used to do the same thing. The previous owner had ruined the rear differential and replaced it with a wrong gear ratio. Then to add more stupidity to it, he put it in 4 wheel drive and ruined the transfer case. He also was the one who told me what he had done after I got it. (it had gone through a couple owners by the time I got it.)
 

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Scrap prices really took a dive over the last 6-8 weeks. Was $180/ton and now it's down to $120/ton. Buy another vehicle to get by and rebuild the t-case and check to be sure you front and rear dif gears are correct. Figure $375 scrap+ the $200 for rebuild parts what can you get for less than $600. Not much!!
Swamp
 

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if you got the time and space for it and are really fed up with it part it out. if that engine is in decent shape you should have no problem getting 300 alone for that. i know a lot of people don't have the space or want to have a bunch of stuff like that around but it will get you a few extra bucks if you do it that way. then when stuff stops selling take it to scrap
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sounds to me like the PO was an asshat who beats the shit out of stuff, covers it up and sells it off.
Mechanical stuff isn't hard to fix, you just gotta know what you're looking at. Rust is a bigger concern, how hard it is to fix depends on how bad it is. Wether its worth fixing depends on where you are. Down here rusted out trucks aren't worth anything because there simply aren't very many.
That being said, the truck itself isn't a lemon and won't give you problems forever. The bottom line is all the problems your having are the result of negligence.
Thats what im thinking about the PO. I had a funny feeling about the truck when i was looking at it but didnt trust my gut. you live you learn i suppose. Rust in the midwest is not at all rare and is the norm with these things. theres a mint condition 1982 lariat for sale in my town for 19,000 that is by far the cleanest bronco ive ever seen in person. http://www.classicautosales.com/details/?VID=2119493 80% of them around here atleast have about an inch of rust over the rear fenders and rust starting to poke through the rockers. ive been keeping my eyes open for one from colorado or the desert without rust. And i agree this problem stems from negligence. I never thought to check my t case fluid, but again you live and you learn.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't know enough to advise whether you should just ditch it, that's your call, but I just finished rebuilding my t-case. Although it was a BW1356, the NP208 doesn't look that different. Sounds like yours leaked all the fluid out and messed some stuff up, probably a shift fork or range slider. If all it'd take to get it up and running again is a functional t-case, they're not that hard or expensive to rebuild yourself. Or you can source one from a junkyard.

What I found with the BW1356 is that you can pay $1k+ to have someone rebuild it for you, you can order a remanufactured one with a one-year warranty for $600, you can find one at a junk yard for ????, or rebuild it yourself for around $100-$200. If your chain is stretched or your planetary needs to be replaced, those are the spendy parts. But otherwise, a bearing and seal kit, pump, forks, hub, tube of RTV and a couple qts atf can all be had for around $200 or less. Good luck.

Called a guy on craigslist who has the c6, driveshafts, and t case from his old bronco. he wants 100 for the np208 t case. im gonna see if he'll toss in the driveshafts too. thanks for the input
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I had a F-150 that used to do the same thing. The previous owner had ruined the rear differential and replaced it with a wrong gear ratio. Then to add more stupidity to it, he put it in 4 wheel drive and ruined the transfer case. He also was the one who told me what he had done after I got it. (it had gone through a couple owners by the time I got it.)
yikes what gears were in her
 

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gonna go pick up a np208 off a guy from CL for $100. this sounds stupid, but at this point i feel like an idiot, anything i should look for in particular as far as signs of in-operation or overall cruddyiness? ive never done a t case so im not sure if i can turn the yoke with my hand or easily shift the shifter to check for operation?
 

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yikes what gears were in her
The originals were 3.55s. He bought a rear differential out of a truck with a 300 6 cylinder. I'm not sure what the gear ratio was, but it didn't match and destroyed the transfer case. Actually, the first transfer case had the back blown out of it. He replaced that one and once again put it in 4 wheel drive (I probably don't need to mention this, but the guy is massively stupid) and stripped the gears on the second one. I bought it for parts for my regular cab 88 F-150. This one was an extended cab 88 with a 302.
 

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gonna go pick up a np208 off a guy from CL for $100. this sounds stupid, but at this point i feel like an idiot, anything i should look for in particular as far as signs of in-operation or overall cruddyiness? ive never done a t case so im not sure if i can turn the yoke with my hand or easily shift the shifter to check for operation?
Yes, you should be able to turn the yoke by hand and shift it to see if its operational. You should also be able to shift it as you spin the yoke and feel it engage 4Hi and 4Lo. Make sure the spin together with little hesitation or slop between the two. If you can turn one more than a few degrees with the 4WD engaged before the other output starts spinning, this can indicate a loose chain and will need replaced. Also, make sure there isn't much, if any, slop in the output shafts and bearings. If he rebuilt it, make sure its clean. No dirt or excessive oil or grease on it. He may or may not have fluid in it when you pick it up, so ask. Look for the factory identification tag that tells you its an NP208. It should be attached to one of the case bolts.

Never be afraid to ask questions. Other than that, get as much of the shift linkages and mounting hardware as you can. You may find you'll need it.
 
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