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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys as some of you may remember I have been having my last round of parts installed since September. Yes, it has been a long time. :) I am thinking of making a build thread once everything is completed although I won't have any in progress pics to go with it. Anyway, I have several questions I would greatly appreciate the groups opinions and advice on. I will give the important background information for each question and then ask the question.

Brakes: I went with new brakes, upgrading to the T-Bird calipers (changed steering knuckles to the older style), new rotors, pads, brake hoses (front and rear), F350 booster and SRW master cylinder, complete new rear brakes---everything. I included F250 SRW wheel cylinders in the mix.
First question: My brakes are soft and certainly doesn't seem to be any improvement in stopping distance. Am I missing something, if not is there a fix to get the performance promised from these upgrades?

EGR : My initial plan was to have fully functioning emissions (EGR and evaporative emissions) systems when I got my truck back. Problem is, I don't have some of the components and honestly don't know what to look for. My mechanic needs a break from my truck and I would like it back. So, I have decided to skip the emissions for a few months until I can figure out and find the parts I need. My issue is, my truck has GT40X aluminum heads and GT40 Lighting intake. During reassembly I had the mechanic leave the EGR "ports" in the head open into the intake. The truck does have the Lightning EGR valve installed of unknown quality. The mechanic says if the EGR valve is good I will have no problems until I do finish the emissions. My problem is during a test drive I am experiencing an intermittent skip that I feel is related to the EGR. Truck runs fine to very fine at other times.
Second Question: What is the likelihood of this being my problem and will a known proper functioning EGR valve resolve it if it is? Obviously I am going to have EGR codes.

Heat: Or more specifically heater. One of the things I wanted repaired was my heat blew only from the defrost. Everything else worked as it should. The problem has been traced to a "plastic sleeve" on one of the vacuum motors that close one of the "blend" doors directing airflow. I will attach pictures. The plastic tip or stud is broken off the sleeve and that is what fits in the door as a point of contact allowing the motor to open the door. The pics should clear up any confusion.
Third Question: Does anyone know of a source for one. It will be a difficult pull from the junkyards and I am honestly very reluctant to install another old brittle plastic piece due to the time in takes to pull and change.

Gauges: I have added autometer gauges and didn't want dead factory gauges. Oil and amp are done.
Fourth Question: Where are yall putting the temp sensor for the aftermarket engine temperature gauge and where for the factory gauge? Are you happy with these selections?

Autometer Transmission Temp Gauge: I am having an issue with the Autometer transmission temperature gauge providing a "legitimate" reading. It is installed in the B & M transmission pan in the hole "provided" for such. The problem is the gauge moves to initial 100* with the switch on, but after driving for 30 minutes moves to maybe a hands width above 100*.
Fifth Question: Do I have an issue with the mounting location (very doubtful to me as I can't imagine the fluid being that cool after driving or that warm at start up after sitting over night) or a faulty sending unit? Any experience with it?
For reference the truck has a 2200 stall Precision Industries converter, Punisher VB running fluid in stock configuration through radiator with an aftermarket cooler replacing the factory one in the grill.

Thanks for the help
tim

I also want to give a huge shout out to the support Paul of Punisher Valve Bodies provided. There were some initial issues that he was instrumental in helping to trace down. Remember, I purchased the VB from him two years ago and just now am getting it installed. Still a world of help. Thanks Paul!! ETA: The problems weren't with the VB but wiring issues instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hey guys as some of you may remember I have been having my last round of parts installed since September. Yes, it has been a long time. :) I am thinking of making a build thread once everything is completed although I won't have any in progress pics to go with it. Anyway, I have several questions I would greatly appreciate the groups opinions and advice on. I will give the important background information for each question and then ask the question.

Brakes: I went with new brakes, upgrading to the T-Bird calipers (changed steering knuckles to the older style), new rotors, pads, brake hoses (front and rear), F350 booster and SRW master cylinder, complete new rear brakes---everything. I included F250 SRW wheel cylinders in the mix.
First question: My brakes are soft and certainly doesn't seem to be any improvement in stopping distance. Am I missing something, if not is there a fix to get the performance promised from these upgrades?

EGR : My initial plan was to have fully functioning emissions (EGR and evaporative emissions) systems when I got my truck back. Problem is, I don't have some of the components and honestly don't know what to look for. My mechanic needs a break from my truck and I would like it back. So, I have decided to skip the emissions for a few months until I can figure out and find the parts I need. My issue is, my truck has GT40X aluminum heads and GT40 Lighting intake. During reassembly I had the mechanic leave the EGR "ports" in the head open into the intake. The truck does have the Lightning EGR valve installed of unknown quality. The mechanic says if the EGR valve is good I will have no problems until I do finish the emissions. My problem is during a test drive I am experiencing an intermittent skip that I feel is related to the EGR. Truck runs fine to very fine at other times.
Second Question: What is the likelihood of this being my problem and will a known proper functioning EGR valve resolve it if it is? Obviously I am going to have EGR codes.

Heat: Or more specifically heater. One of the things I wanted repaired was my heat blew only from the defrost. Everything else worked as it should. The problem has been traced to a "plastic sleeve" on one of the vacuum motors that close one of the "blend" doors directing airflow. I will attach pictures. The plastic tip or stud is broken off the sleeve and that is what fits in the door as a point of contact allowing the motor to open the door. The pics should clear up any confusion.
Third Question: Does anyone know of a source for one. It will be a difficult pull from the junkyards and I am honestly very reluctant to install another old brittle plastic piece due to the time in takes to pull and change.

Gauges: I have added autometer gauges and didn't want dead factory gauges. Oil and amp are done.
Fourth Question: Where are yall putting the temp sensor for the aftermarket engine temperature gauge and where for the factory gauge? Are you happy with these selections?

Autometer Transmission Temp Gauge: I am having an issue with the Autometer transmission temperature gauge providing a "legitimate" reading. It is installed in the B & M transmission pan in the hole "provided" for such. The problem is the gauge moves to initial 100* with the switch on, but after driving for 30 minutes moves to maybe a hands width above 100*.
Fifth Question: Do I have an issue with the mounting location (very doubtful to me as I can't imagine the fluid being that cool after driving or that warm at start up after sitting over night) or a faulty sending unit? Any experience with it?
For reference the truck has a 2200 stall Precision Industries converter, Punisher VB running fluid in stock configuration through radiator with an aftermarket cooler replacing the factory one in the grill.

Thanks for the help
tim

I also want to give a huge shout out to the support Paul of Punisher Valve Bodies provided. There were some initial issues that he was instrumental in helping to trace down. Remember, I purchased the VB from him two years ago and just now am getting it installed. Still a world of help. Thanks Paul!! ETA: The problems weren't with the VB but wiring issues instead.

Okay, just to update this apparently dead thread?? What happened to you guys???

Anyway,

1st question: Brakes, another bleeding and adjustment of the brake booster rod seemed to resolve the problem. After such, the brakes are good to very good. Are they better than factory?? Yes, they are. Enough better to justify lots of money spent to make the modifications?? Not sure, if you have a parts truck or find the knuckles "cheap" and need ball joints anyway, and can justify an alignment, then hell yes. If, replacing everything like I did, then yes too, because one doesn't cost significantly different from the other. Otherwise, IDK, only you can decide. But, they are better for sure. tim


I haven't ironed out the EGR issues, but a new EGR valve did resolve my skipping issues, so I'd say a win/win for that issue. I do still plan to find and add a complete EGR, TAB/TAD and Evaporative emissions system before my computer tune. Hopefully, I can find the appropriate emissions information and add all the needed components before my computer tune. I hope it helps drivability, emissions, hp/torque, and fuel economy.

The heater was fixed using "modifications". Disappointed not to find the proper "clip" for the vacuum arm. Pity no one had any other suggestions.

I am going to have to either change where the new Autometer gauge gets its info from and add the factory back to its original location or move the factory location. Undecided on either, still at this moment. But, I'll figure it out. Factory gauge is probably going back to original spot and new Autometer gauge going to thermostat housing, unless someone has a better suggestion??

Traced to an out of the box, albeit 2 years old, bad temperature sending unit. Need to order a new one from Summit Racing. Not a big deal, but still an aggravation. But, in a project this big, one should expect issues. :) Transmission temperature gauge is not a Ford Racing Gauge and doesn't blend in as well either. lol

Truck runs pretty well, sometimes, (about 50%) at stop signs,/lights, I have a large idle surge. Not always, and it is easily "corrected" by simply applying a very light foot to the throttle. However I think this will be resolved with a computer/dyno tune. Fuel economy, so far sucks. lol

I still need to add all of the emissions stuff, minus a smog pump. So, completing the EGR, Evaporative emissions and "anything else" applicable. Any help, pictures, part numbers considering all my modifications, and diagrams will be greatly appreciated. I want to have all the emissions, dual tanks, etc., completed before the tune.

Thanks
tim
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Hey Tim, never saw this till now.

The heater clip thingy would be a good candidate for 3D printing. I know of no source for them, but ive never looked either.

I replaced my 85 gauges with autometer everything. However, I have a warning light for water temp in addition to a gauge. The warning light sender is in the thermostat housing and the gauge probe is in the factory spot at the back of the 300 block.

Trans temp sender really should be in the test port, on the drivers side of the case, a bit forward and up of the center point IIRC. Mine would read in correct ranges in that spot on my 96 diesel e4od.

As for emissions, im not much help as i remove that stuff usually when it fails or has been hacked previously. I have the valves and hardline from my 96 f350 351w (speed density still) but one end has ben cut. Could be useful though, and free, plus shipping.

Snake Scaled reptile Gas Tail Auto part


Door Composite material Fixture Wood Gas


@miesk5 probably has the emissions decal for a 90.
 
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Yo Tim,
As BigBlue 94 advised and;
"VECI (Vehicle Emissions Control Information) Label for a 1990 5.8L Bronco." And more emissions components location pics, etc by Seattle FSB @ 1990 Ford Bronco Emissions pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
....
& Seattle posted;
"Be advised that the ACV (Air Control Valve) is the TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter) Valve and the AIR BPV is the TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) Valve. The VRESER is the Vacuum Reservoir Can where the red & black vacuum lines plug into and the EGR is actually the EVP (EGR Valve Position Sensor).

@ 351 windsor vacuum lines

  • Excessive Brake Pedal Effort to Fully Apply Brakes
  • Overloaded vehicle.
  • LIGHTEN load and ADVISE owner of correct load limits of vehicle.
  • Insufficient vacuum to power brake booster.
  • REPLACE damaged or leaking vacuum booster hoses.
  • Restricted air filter on power brake booster, if equipped
  • CLEAN or REPLACE filter.
  • Power brake booster and brake pedal linkage binding caused by worn bushings or corrosion.
  • REPLACE worn brake master cylinder push rod bushing or CLEAN and LUBRICATE linkage.
  • Worn or damaged power brake booster.
  • REPLACE power brake booster.
  • Brake shoe and lining worn, glazed, contaminated or improper type.
  • REPLACE brake shoe and lining in axle sets.
  • Brake shoe and lining improperly installed.
  • REPOSITION brake shoes properly and ELIMINATE any binding.
  • Seized pistons in rear wheel cylinders or seized disc brake calipers.
  • REPAIR or REPLACE as required.
  • Restricted brake lines or hoses.

See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 incl jowens126 's HVAC Control Panel info @ Help with dtc codes and idle
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader.....
Of course, ignition EGR, EVP, EVR RELATED CODES.
Al
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Blue and Miesk5.

Blue, I actually thought about 3D printing but don't know of anyone or anywhere to have it done. But, knock on wood, except for my desire to NOT rig stuff the fabricated fix should last as long as the original clip. If it does, I am probably good. lol

The factory temperature gauge just drives me nuts being "dead". I am going to do something for it. Probably the simplest solution I can determine. No real big deal.

I thought about the test port on the transmission and even asked Paul "the Punisher" about it after posting the original questions. His response was that either spot was good. Either way, I still got to buy the twentyish dollar sender. Guess I shouldn't start pinching (or even closely counting) pennies at this stage. This last round of mods defines the term "in for a penny in for a pound" lol.

I may take you up on your generous offer, once I figure out what I do need. My issue is similar to you, I never cared much about the emissions components. So, I don't know what I am missing (because I don't know what to look for or what it looks like.). Guess I'll have to do some research and look for pictures and what I will need to change. I guess I essentially have a mass air equipped 93-95 Lightning.

Miesk5, I appreciate the diagram and the link to the pictures. The pictures should help me quite a bit, all I'll have to do from there is cross reference a Lightning and perhaps a 96 without an smog pump. Mine was bad at the start of the mods and was replaced with a short belt. I will put it all to good future use. Thank you.

As for the brakes, all components in my system are new. My pedal was too soft, but has been resolved by lengthening the booster rod, adjusting the rear brakes again and bleeding the system again. But thanks for the reference chart too.

Thanks
tim
 

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My 96 f350 had the smog pump removed when i got it. So i removed the other junk when i pulled the trans.

There are some guys on here with 3D printers and threads about em.

Trans temp sender location has always been a debated topic. Some areas read hot fluid and some read cooler fluid. As long as you keep an eye on it and note its usual range, itll be okay.
 
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I left my stock temp sending unit hooked up to the stock location … and used one of these for the aftermarket gauge. It has a place on top for the sending unit.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I left my stock temp sending unit hooked up to the stock location … and used one of these for the aftermarket gauge. It has a place on top for the sending unit.


Thanks Paul, that is basically what I "think" I am looking for. Did your aftermarket gauge read consistently?? My mechanic guy (although I can definitely do this mod and could have done 90% of what I had done) says it will constantly be fluctuating in this location. I am not completely satisfied that would be a bad thing. If it is or would be, then I guess I can relocate the factory sensor to this location and just have it bounce around?? What is everyone's thoughts??

Thanks again,
tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My 96 f350 had the smog pump removed when i got it. So i removed the other junk when i pulled the trans.

There are some guys on here with 3D printers and threads about em.

Trans temp sender location has always been a debated topic. Some areas read hot fluid and some read cooler fluid. As long as you keep an eye on it and note its usual range, itll be okay.

LOL, I am satisfied with "my" repairs. But, funny you mention it. I had scoured the internet for information on the vacuum motor "sleeve" and found nothing. For some reason, (I was aggravated, after spending about 1.5 hours yesterday and 5+ hours today trying to make a "repair template" for my radio, any suggestions are appreciated. :) ). I researched it "one last time" and found an actual thread detailing my exact symptoms and the exact reason why!!! He didn't find a replacement either and made a similar repair. The funniest thing is I had sworn, I was done looking when I gave up a few weeks ago. lol

thanks again everyone
tim
 
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Thanks Paul, that is basically what I "think" I am looking for. Did your aftermarket gauge read consistently?? My mechanic guy (although I can definitely do this mod and could have done 90% of what I had done) says it will constantly be fluctuating in this location. I am not completely satisfied that would be a bad thing. If it is or would be, then I guess I can relocate the factory sensor to this location and just have it bounce around?? What is everyone's thoughts??

Thanks again,
tim
Make sure the sensor probe is well into the coolant stream. If it is up in a pocket, out of the main stream, it will give bad readings.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you brother. I have a coolant leak, that after inspecting while working on my radio "template" I strongly suspect is coming from the timing chain cover, I very well may purchase a different thermostat housing and install the aftermarket sender there and the original back to the original space. My logic, is while it will show deviations, if there is a deviation from the "normal' I will know of a problem and can corelate it with the factory gauge and other issues? Of course, Ican do the factory gauge the same way. So, in "yall;s" opinion which would be better??

thanks
tim
 

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I would rather have the real gauge in the factory spot, where the reading is supposed to occur.

I had mine set up with some brass fittings so both were in the factory port. But that resulted in neither reading well since there was no flow. So i moved the warning light sender to a coolant passage on my 300-6 intake, fed by the heater hose. Header heat killed it. Got that up on the T-stat now and hoping it cures it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the feedback. I may move the factory sender to the thermostat housing as you suggest. It should still work and I wouldn't have a dead factory gauge, just a fluctuating one. I can probably live with that.

thanks
tim
 
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