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Satyr of the Midwest
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Looks good. :thumbup

How do the pressures look when the engine's running at about 1500-2000 rpm?
 

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The Anti Yam!
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22,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Frack!

Pressure above idle is moot.

I just found a pinhole leak in the high pressure hose assembly.

More $$

We'll try again next weekend :banghead
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Damn. That sucks, dude. Best of luck getting 'er fixed.
 

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luckily the hose assembly on that old 4.0 is inexpensive. But your high side seems high for that ambient air temp. Fix the leak and check the fan clutch when you do a vac and recharge.

OEM spec was 32oz of r12. retrofit should be 85% which is like 28oz or 1.75lb...
 

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The Anti Yam!
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22,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Lets do it again.

How does this look

24 psi on low side

190 psi on high side

74*F ambient outside air temp

A/C set to max, windows down

Compressor runs continiousley

Air from vent's is cold

R-12 system converted to 134A

Red orriface tube

8oz of oil

Only took 1.50 cans of 134A (20oz), should I add more.

Any info I missed?

(Not a Bronco, 93 Explorer)

Fan clutch is a heavy duty thermostatic unit that works properly.
 

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High pressure looks a tad high for 74*, especially at 24 psi low. Did you retrofit to the R134a condenser? R134a requires a larger condenser IIRC.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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22,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
High pressure looks a tad high for 74*, especially at 24 psi low. Did you retrofit to the R134a condenser? R134a requires a larger condenser IIRC.
I flushed it, and it is clean.

To my knowledge there is no other condenser to choose from.

Educate me if I am wrong :thumbup
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Discussion Starter #9
Also, the vehicle is setting in an open air carport that has three walls. one with a three foot wide accesway.

Ambient temp around the vehicle was actually closer to 80*F (Heat wash from the engine)

Could too much oil bring the high pressure side up, or is the actual higher temp the reason?

I can get driveway readings tomorrow that would be more accurate. :thumbup
 

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Even at 80 degrees that clutch should be cycling off and on. My manual shows a 1994 Bronco factory equipped with R-134a holds 33 oz. of refrigerant. Obviously your '86 may be different, but 20 oz. does seem low. The clutch cycling switch should be shutting off right around 23-24 PSI to allow pressure to build back up to ~40-45 PSI when it will close again.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Discussion Starter #11

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My bad..I missed that :duh
 

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Premium Member
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did you place a vacuum on the system before you charged it?
 

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Premium Member
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suprised you did not find the leak then.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Discussion Starter #16
suprised you did not find the leak then.
Oh, you mean the first time.

I'm shocked I didn't find it then.....

I pulled 23inHg for 10 minutes, closed the valves and let it sit for 2 hours, it stayed at 23inHg. Then I ran the pump for another 40 minutes ofter that before charging.

This last time I just ran the pump for 40 minutes and charged it.
 

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did you reuse all the old R12 lines?
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Discussion Starter #18
did you reuse all the old R12 lines?
Originaly, with all new green seals.

I have never had a problem with R134A seeping through old oil soaked R-12 hoses. But what happened to the high pressure hose was not R-12 seeping through non barrier hoses, it was a pinhole leak that only opened up once the high side had pressurized.

Now the Suction/Discharge hose assembly has been replaced with a new barrier hose. Only the hose from the Condenser to the Evaporator is the original R-12 hose.
 

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Premium Member
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ya, it's a crap shot with the old r12 hoses. they can leak or not leak when r134 is introduced into them. you definatly need to charge by weight with R134, and from what I read in this thread you have a low charge per weight.
 
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