[AT1222]

Hey guys I am new to the site and have recently purchased a 94 FSB XLT with 4" lift and 35's. I have a done a little tlc on it but there are a few things I have questions about so here goes..

1. My rear window used to roll up/down fine but i washed it one day and hasnt worked since, could it be a short? the motor does not make a noise at all and the window is stuck in the up position so i cannot get the tailgate down. I took out the lock in the tailgate to have a key made for it and I saw the 2 buttons that im guessing roll the window up or down on the lock and pressed them, it still did not work so I am fairly sure it isnt the switches that are bad. I just went to autozone and bought a new window motor for it, but not an actuator. do you guys think that could just be the problem and maybe the old motor got wet? if so, can i stick a bag or some kind of plastic over the new motor to keep that from happening again? Is it possible that I need a new actuator or something else too and not just the motor? and if it is a short where is the most likely place and how do I check it?
2. When i bought the truck, the spare tire rack was off of it, but i have the swingarm part. i do not have the part that actually bolts to the truck, im guessing its some sort of quick release latch? the local junkyard did not have any FSB's, but i found a 1985 bronco 2 on craigslist the guy is parting out, it does have the swingarm on the back too, so my question is will that latch off the bronco 2 fit on my FSB tailgate? the swingarm looks the same to me so im thinking the latch could be as well.
3. I did not receive the owners manual for the truck. It has absolutely NO lighting on the inside, the bulbs are gone. I looked up the manual for the 1996 broncos and got the bulb #s off of there, but i know after 94 they went to a different over head console didnt they? so the bulbs could be different i just want to confirm this. Does anybody know which bulbs i need for the chrome dome light and the 2 map lights? how about the rear cargo light? and also the lights in the door panels?
4. The truck has no exhaust pipe on it at the time, it has the manifolds and stock y pipe i believe. I am wanting to run dual straight pipes out the back with no cats, is anyone running this and does it sound alright? right now it sounds like crap and is dumping right under the cab and is annoying.
5. My cruise control does not work, does anyone know a way to fix this or possibly replace it and for relatively cheap? or should i just go without it?
6. my dash panel around the speedometer is not really stuck on, just sitting there and my ignition is sort of jacked up, the U-shaped part the key goes in that you turn actually spins all the way around and sometimes will not let the key go in or out. the locksmith said my ignition has probably been changed? he said the front doors and ignition should of had the same key from the factory and the "round" key fits the glove box and tailgate? or is there actually 3 keys: 1 for front doors, 1 for ignition, and 1 for tailgate? this makes no sense to me why there would be 3 keys.. so if my ignition has been changed, can i fix it to where it does not move around and put back like it is supposed to be? and is there a way to make every single lock on the truck fit the same key? or instead have all the locks fit 2 keys instead of 3?
7. In the rear cargo area i have 2 cylinder shaped things sticking out of the floor by the tailgate, what are these? i dont see any real use for them and wondering if it came from the factory this way.

Lots of questions here i know, but any help would be GREATLY appreciated! hopefully when i get these few things fixed I will have a very nice bronco :rockon

 

[rcracerx]

Hey guys I am new to the site and have recently purchased a 94 FSB XLT with 4" lift and 35's. I have a done a little tlc on it but there are a few things I have questions about so here goes..

1. My rear window used to roll up/down fine but i washed it one day and hasnt worked since, could it be a short? the motor does not make a noise at all and the window is stuck in the up position so i cannot get the tailgate down. I took out the lock in the tailgate to have a key made for it and I saw the 2 buttons that im guessing roll the window up or down on the lock and pressed them, it still did not work so I am fairly sure it isnt the switches that are bad. I just went to autozone and bought a new window motor for it, but not an actuator. do you guys think that could just be the problem and maybe the old motor got wet? if so, can i stick a bag or some kind of plastic over the new motor to keep that from happening again? Is it possible that I need a new actuator or something else too and not just the motor? and if it is a short where is the most likely place and how do I check it?
2. When i bought the truck, the spare tire rack was off of it, but i have the swingarm part. i do not have the part that actually bolts to the truck, im guessing its some sort of quick release latch? the local junkyard did not have any FSB's, but i found a 1985 bronco 2 on craigslist the guy is parting out, it does have the swingarm on the back too, so my question is will that latch off the bronco 2 fit on my FSB tailgate? the swingarm looks the same to me so im thinking the latch could be as well.
3. I did not receive the owners manual for the truck. It has absolutely NO lighting on the inside, the bulbs are gone. I looked up the manual for the 1996 broncos and got the bulb #s off of there, but i know after 94 they went to a different over head console didnt they? so the bulbs could be different i just want to confirm this. Does anybody know which bulbs i need for the chrome dome light and the 2 map lights? how about the rear cargo light? and also the lights in the door panels?
4. The truck has no exhaust pipe on it at the time, it has the manifolds and stock y pipe i believe. I am wanting to run dual straight pipes out the back with no cats, is anyone running this and does it sound alright? right now it sounds like crap and is dumping right under the cab and is annoying.
5. My cruise control does not work, does anyone know a way to fix this or possibly replace it and for relatively cheap? or should i just go without it?
6. my dash panel around the speedometer is not really stuck on, just sitting there and my ignition is sort of jacked up, the U-shaped part the key goes in that you turn actually spins all the way around and sometimes will not let the key go in or out. the locksmith said my ignition has probably been changed? he said the front doors and ignition should of had the same key from the factory and the "round" key fits the glove box and tailgate? or is there actually 3 keys: 1 for front doors, 1 for ignition, and 1 for tailgate? this makes no sense to me why there would be 3 keys.. so if my ignition has been changed, can i fix it to where it does not move around and put back like it is supposed to be? and is there a way to make every single lock on the truck fit the same key? or instead have all the locks fit 2 keys instead of 3?
7. In the rear cargo area i have 2 cylinder shaped things sticking out of the floor by the tailgate, what are these? i dont see any real use for them and wondering if it came from the factory this way.

Lots of questions here i know, but any help would be GREATLY appreciated! hopefully when i get these few things fixed I will have a very nice bronco :rockon

Welcome to the club, there are lots of info to be had here, you just have to have the will to read it.

1. There is several writes ups done on this. I would recommend doing some trouble shooting first, maybe a fuse is blown or somthing and nothing major? Use the search button that is located up at the top of the screen, 3rd in from the right, just below the giant ad banner. Type in rear window and tons of related threads will pop up.

2. Don't really know, but my guess is it won't fit.

3. You can go to walmart and use their computer to know exactly what bulb you need.

4. I would recomend getting a bassani Y-pipe and 3" exhaust, look at my how to thread here; http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126881 and I have two videos on the 2nd or 3rd page on how it sounds

5. My '89 servo linkage tend to vibrate off of the throttle body lever from time to time, I would check that first.

6. The ignition is the square key, the exterior key hole is round, and the same key should work them all. if you need a 3rd key then something got changed. Sounds like if you want only 2 keys better get a new lock cylinder set for all three exterior holes.

7. Those are covers for your body mounts.

 

[AT1222]

i have checked the fuses and that is not the problem, I will try to replace the motor this weekend, is there a "how to" on this? my window and tailgate are stuck in the up position so when i replace the motor will the glass fall on me?

What size are the outlets of the stock manifolds if i wanted to run duals?

Is there a way to cut down or remove the part of the body mounts that stick up? I have seen pictures of some broncos that do not have them sticking up in the trunk, actually I havent seen any like mine where they do.

 

[wileec]

2. I do not believe that a B2 rack will fit.
5. the 90s had a recall on the cruise wiring it may be unplugged right near the master cylinder reservoir
7. I did not think there was anything "sticking up" just a couple of rubber plugs for body mounts. If it is above floor level it is something different

 

[miesk5]

yo,
1. Troubleshooting Synopsis; "...
Be aware that: The tailgate latch switch on the driver's side seems to be a common problem, check it early. MIESK5 NOTE; "...The safety switch was moved from the tailgate handle to the left latch by 1983..." per Seabronc; It keeps the window from being moved when the tailgate is open, & if not latched right, it'll keep the window from working at all. Try pushing on the tailgate in while holding the button or key switch in the up or down position. If that makes it work, check out Steve83's How to align a Bronco Tailgate linked below. Ground for the motor connects up front, & at rest runs from there through both switches & both wires to the motor. When either switch is operated, 1 side's ground is disconnected & replaced by hot at that switch. Ground for the motor is not connected to it's case, but supplied through the wires. The 78-79 TG ckt included a 20 a Circuit Breaker @ starter relay & receives 12 v from Ignition Switch; whereas later years don't have the CB there; it is of course in the Fuse Panel or have 2 fuses in the panel; & Relay Location in 78-79; for the 78-9 People, for us, it is quite easy, under the dash behind the instrument cluster, there is a relay, that relay is to run the main constant power for the rear window when the key is on,by origin at FSB; Relay Location in 78-79; Behind the guage/speedo is a relay that powers the inside switch, check it, by Zebrafive at FSB; In other years after 82, there are 2 seperate power sources & 2 fuses/circuit breakers for positive. 1 for each switch. The same 2 wires are used throughout for both up & down (Polarity is reversed by the switches). When the tailgate is open, you have to close the driver's side latch for the window to operate. Remember to open it before closing the tailgate. Testing: Does it make any noise at all? Like the motor's turning, but the window doesn't move? If so, there are torque pins in the motor's drive gear that commonly break & aren't too bad to replace. See the torque pin, Steve83's & Adrianspeeder's links. If it makes no noise, then it's probably in the electrical system. Fireguy50's wiring diagram is linked; To test the electrical system, remove the access panel from inside the tailgate. Run test wires from the battery directly to the window motor connector After 79, (Yellow/r & red/y wires coming right out of the motor) to confirm that the motor works. To lower the window, it should be positive to red/y, & negative to yellow/r. Be ready for the window to move, keep hands & wires clear. Make all the connections but 1, then connect & disconnect the last wire quickly to see if it tries to go the right way. If it tries to go the wrong way, reverse the wires (This also makes it so that you can lower the window & get the tailgate open to continue testing). A- If it runs & the window moves when wired directly to the battery, perform the following tests: A.1- With both switches at rest & the latch switch closed, connect a tester between the positive test wire from the battery & each wire from the tailgate loom at the connector for the motor. Both should read 12v. If they do the ground is good. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find. A.2- With the latch switch closed, connect the tester between the negative test wire from the battery & each wire from the loom at the connector for the motor. The red/y wire should read 12v when either switch is in the down position, the yellow/r wire should read 12v when either switch is in the up position. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find. A.3- If everything tests ok, but it still doesn't run, there's a couple more possible causes to check: Sometimes the connector for the tailgate motor will test ok, but not make contact when plugged in. You might try backprobing the motor side wires with the plug connected. On mine I removed it & soldered the connections. It's possible for a damaged wire to carry enough load to show 12v on a tester, but not enough to operate the motor. Look for worn areas, especially in the loom between the body & the tailgate. B- If it runs but doesn't move when wired directly to the battery, in addition to your electrical problem, the torque pins in the drive gear are probably broken too. Run the electrical tests in section "A" above, & see the torque pin, Steve83's Tailgate Tech, & Adrianspeeder's links above for the torque pin replacement. C- If it doesn't run at all when wired directly to the battery, it sounds like it's time for a new motor. See Steve83's ...link ... & use the info for removing & replacing the motor. On my truck there were multiple bad connections, so it was hard to isolate the problem. Someone before me used a ton of crimp connectors . Basically I ended up removing them & soldering all the connections, & eliminating the corroded plug to the motor..."
Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165569

Watwer and debris gets into motor area bec of bad window weaterstrip (horizotal on outside); and thresh hold gasket (at rear of floor pan; as well as the other ws
see my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=478
for such as;

Weather Seal, Outer, Rear Glass Run Seal Removal (broncograveyard pn 34543 for 80-96); "...Use a screwdriver to gently pry the OUTER weatherbelt up just enough to pop the cllps loose. I've pulled the far end out to show the clips, but it should be left straight until ALL the clips are loose, then lifted out without bending. The inner seal is removed the same way, but use a rag between the screwdriver and the paint..."
Source: Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Weather Seal, Threshhold in 78-96 Diagram; "...the body style shown is '78-79 (taillight & strike mounting) and the actual threshhold is NOT shown. But the seal & retainer are the same for '78-96. The 56928-S55 screws are phillips head with large integral washer ~1/4" long with self-drilling tip.The 55933-S55 screws are countersunk oval phillips head ~1/4" long with normal tip..."
Weather Seal Terminology & Sources in 78-79 & 80-96
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
Weather Seal, Camper Top Weather Seal, Glass Run Info & Ford pn; "...Some aftermarket versions are simply a continuous strip - they lack the formed corner pieces at each end..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

Weather Strip Reviews; "...So I went with trusty ol' LMC. The weatherstripping came on the UPS truck about a half hour ago, and I spent the last 10 minutes putting it on. Beautiful, flawless....i bought my rubber from lmctruck.com and it was an exact fit no issues at all. I just did the upper in the cap of my 88 and got my rubber from Jeff's. It didn't require reusing the clips, just popped right in..."
Source: by loarmistead, Troy & generaltso at FSB
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

====

2. See my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=753 for:
Swing-Away, Type 3 (90-96) Parts Break-Out Diagram (in Swing-Away Tire Carrier (Type 3) TSB 90-07-13 for 90 Bronco)

Ford describes it as Spare Wheel Support pn 1A429
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Get it at a Yard or buy from;
7 found at 1 sellerDescription: SUPPORT ASY-SPARE WH:
Green Sales Company
Cincinnati, OH (513) 294-8385
Map & DirectionsSend Seller Email Inquiry
Tell them you saw it on RearCounter.com & by miesk5
==============

3. Map Lamp Cartridge pic in 94-96 Bronco w/3175 Bulbs & pre & post 99 Explorer; click Next for more bulb holder pics
Source: by Steve83

The plastic bulb holders are larger than those used for the instrument cluster.
=========
4. See my Exhaust Section site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=579
for such as;
Duals & Flowmaster™ Muffler & Split pics in a 94 5.8
Source: by Eric B (BlazenXLT) at http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=4956&s=19744#content

Duals & Dynomax® muffler 3" dual-in/ dual-out w/no y pipe or cats info & pics in a 92 5.0
Source: by zerocool at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/17171/62928
etc.

BUT, exh gases w/rear wind down may creep into passenger area w/duals or single pipe exiting by rear bumper.

For stock direct fit cat, muffler, pipe and hangers see WALKER

0r w/5.8
http://www.walkerexhaust.com/images/catalog/coupons/12573.gif

==========
5. There is still a RECALL for the CC
Recall for 93-96 Bronco, 94-02 F-150, 97-02 Expedition & 98-02 Lincoln Navigators; NHTSA Campaign id number: 05v388000, 07v336000 & 05v017000; recall date Jan 27, 2005 & update; (search for 07v336000 & 05v017000 in "safety recalls) on certain sport utility vehicles and pickup trucks, the speed control deactivation switch may overheat, smoke, or burn this condition could lead to a fire. Fires have occurred while the vehicles were parked with the ignition 'off.' as an interim repair, owners will be instructed to return their vehicles to their dealers to have the speed control deactivation switch disconnected. As soon as replacement parts are available (early April 2005), owners will be instructed to return to the dealers for installation of a new switch free of charge. Owners may contact ford at 1-800-392-3673. (note: also see recalls 05v388 and 06v286) Ford recall no. 05s28. Customers may also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's vehicle safety hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV
Source: by National Highway Traffic Safety Administration nhtsa.dot.gov
Some folks say their Dealers claim that the Recall "is over' or the "Bronco is too old to qualify", etc.
BUT;

Recall; "took it to the dealer today and got a new one installed free." 12 April 2011
Source: by tr21triton at FSB
&
Recall Problem; "...I have a 95 Bronco and back in feb.-11- 2010 my rig's master cylinder's Speed Control Deactivation Switch connection caught fire, this is what the recall "speed control system" is and the recall is still on going. Just go to www.fordowner.com to find out about recalls. After contacting Fordowner.com and filing a claim they passed it on to the claims group @ FORD to be reviewed. Once the group reviewed my claim then someone got in touch with me, I have to mail copys of my title, bill of sale, ect. and copy's of photos of the damage to her. She said that the dealer dose not have parts for vehicles 10 years and older so I have to get my local shop to replace the master cylinder and the wires that were effected by the break fluid and their labor cast, she will cut me/the shop a check and then after the work is done then the dealer will look it over to make sure the truck and the work is up-to-date. All this to fix something that at most costs $200. WTF..."
Source: by Belafox at FSB
==========

6. Lock Cylinder Replacement & Location in Parts Break-Out Diagram in 92-96; "...Align pin from ignition switch with slot in lock/column assembly. Position slot in lock/column assembly with index mark on casting. Ignition switch should be in RUN position..." READ MUCH MORE; includes TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/573959

my 96XL has two keys; one for Both door and Ignition; and other for Tailgate mtd window switch; XL does not have a glove box light;

Lock Cylinder Rekeying in a 92
Source: by amtarsha (Sotally Tober) at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128285

 

[doublebarrell96]

Exhaust

4. In order for us to help you with that one you should provide the following information:

1: Do you have smog/inspection laws in your state?

2: What size engine do you have?

3: Has any modifications/upgrades been done that you know of or is it bone stock?


Personally I run the magnaflow y-pipe which has two cats and provisions for smog and o2 into a 28" thrush glass pack and a turn down (all 21/2"). Quiet as a kitten @ idle, roars like a lion when I put my foot into it! $225 from Summit with free shipping. I have a stock 5.0 with stock heads and no headers. Far and away the second best upgrade I did (next to the 6litre tune-up) and can be done for less than $300! Others like the catco y-pipe as it is comparably priced and uses only one three-stage cat. If you have a 5.8, go with the bassani!

There's more info and experience than you can imagine on this site. Take your time, do the searches, and get er done!:toothless

 

[AT1222]

I have no emission inspections since I live in Alabama so I'm all good there. I have the 351w and as far as I know there are no engine mods done to it, just suspension etc. I will try to get pics of the cargo area asap. I am wanting to run straight duals with no cats off the stock manifold(im guessing it still has the stock ones on it) and run glass packs with these tips: http://www.ourdealsrock.net/chrome6tipangle212inlet.aspx#.TrwkC3MzKjV
should sound like a beast! but will my pipe diameter be 2.5" back from the manifold to match the tips? Thanks for all the help! I will also try to upload pics of my truck when I can!

 

[wileec]

To each his own. But I have a question. Do 6" tips do anything for performance, or is it just cosmetics? Because I am sure I would have a 1" flat oval in no time.

 

[JKossarides]

Miesk5 says to push in on the tailgate so it closes "flush" with the body line so the safety switch inside doesn't circumvent the window from going up/down and if there's no power you'll need to remove the TG access panel and go inside to disconnect the "regulator arms with toggles from the side tracks and manually lower the window below the top of the TG box weather strip level otherwise the handle won't clear and release the latches on either side, the window catches a ROD attached to the handle mechanisim when it travels downward that's how the handle gets cleared or you'll bend parts inside rendering the handle inoperable. With the TG down, check both the "door striker bolts" Doorman part # 38420 - $7.99 1 pack with anti-rattle bushing, Door Striker Bushing (anti-rattle) part # 38424 - $3.99 4 pack in the Help section of any auto store. Usng a # T-50 Torx socket you can "adjust or unscrew" the ds bolt/s inward and using lubricant slide on a new bushing if need.

Check the drivers side rear quater panel for the TG wiring harness, you'll notice it goes at the bottom of the TG box along the inside with a connector to the pw motor. The harness gets kinked and damaged from opening/closing possibly affecting voltage to the pw motor, the motor is "torque pin riveted" to the backing plate so in order to repair it they need to be drilled out and I would rebuild/repair the OEM motor because it's a perfect fit where some after market motors aren't.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[doublebarrell96]

Wholly Molley

Those are some big honkin' tips! The size of exhaust up to the tips would be determined by the diameter of pipe you choose. I'm assuming you're taking it to a professional to have it custom bent. Do a search and you'll find a chart that will show you the recommended size diameter of pipe you'll want to use for your application whether you want to go with duals or single.

Round here you can't get a muffler shop to bend anything without cats, etc. and we don't even have inspection laws here in Ks. Alot of guys go Bassani y-pipe, hooker aero-chamber muffler and a 3" over the axle tail-pipe.All 3", mandrel bent, and they claim it will flow just as well as a true dual set-up. Others really like their duals so to each his own, just make sure the muffler guy doesn't job you on some low hanging piece of garbage as the exhaust needs to bend up over the trans. x-member and the avoiding the transfer case linkage, etc.

Need to upload my pics. too, still haven't got that done yet......Lookn' forward to seeing yours. My nephew has a 93' f-150 with a 5.8 that he wants me to work on. Never wrenched on a 5.8 unless you count a 78 LTD 25yrs. ago! P.S. Oh, almost forgot, there's a few horses waitn' to be unleashed with a good set of shorty headers for a 5.8 too according to the 5.8 guys on this site!:rockon

 

[AT1222]

I am pretty sure the tips do nothing performance wise, I just like the way it looks and I will have them exiting at 45 degree angles behind the rear tires. Bigger tips usually give a little bit deeper tone too. It is illegal for shops to run exhausts without cats, but I know of one that will do it after hours for me I have tried to push in the tailgate and it still did not work, So its either the motor or the wiring I guess. Hopefully when I can put the new motor on(in about 2 weeks:banghead) it will be fixed and I can start on the smaller stuff:rockon

 

[AT1222]

alright guys so i bought a new rear window motor and put it on and still nothing, so i knew the old one was still probably good. it turned out to be a wiring issue which i did not want to tear apart the whole truck to find out where it was. instead I wired in a new switch into the dash and ran completely new wires back to the window bypassing everything so now it works perfectly every time with no safety bypasses or whatever, but you do have to be careful not to let some idiot use it with the tailgate down and break the glass.

I still have yet to find out the lighting problem, it was not the bulbs and still the ONLY light that works inside the truck is the glovebox, not even the door lights. i have taken a picture of the dome light to let yall see what might be the issue, im thinking another wiring problem, but that would probably be a b**** to redo. If i could just get that one dome light to work when the doors are open id be happy.

Another thing, I have taken some pics of the trunk to show those plastic things sticking up i was talking about and maybe to see if they can be removed.

 

[Ewgoetz]

for the light issue and the rear window issue your problem might be the wiring harness right by the door. pop off the pannels on the DS and check out the harness to see if its pluged together, cause there is a connector around there that connects some wiring there and your issue might be in that area of its damaged or something.

The last pics look like someone put the body lifts on the truck but from the inside. guessing they used to have a body lift and they removed it but may have lost 2 bolts or broke them on removing them the first time and didnt want to get the correct size so they did that. You cna remove the plastic pieces but get the right ssize bolts first to put back in after you remove the body lifts.