Did you bleed the clutch master and slave cylinders?
New clutch now won’t shift
I recently replaced the clutch in my 95 f150 with a 4.9L 300 i6. I used all luk clutch parts. It worked great until I got home and sat for 3 hours in the driveway. I went out side and started it to let warm up while I got ready. Once I got in and went to put it in reverse it made this horrible grinding noise as if I was just trying to slam it into gear without the clutch. I have reverse but in order to use it I must start it while in gear. It also used to shift into each gear with ease before replacing and now requires actual force. I’m new to these trucks and this is the first time I have ever done a clutch and unfortunately have no idea where to start. I know it’s not a bronco but most other forums seem to be dead and have referred to use this one for other problems. I could really use help and all would be much appreciated.
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Also check through the boot that the clutch release is seated properly.
Yes I spent an hour just bleeding it making sure that there was no air in the systemAlso check through the boot that the clutch release is seated properly.
I don’t think I follow what you mean. Like the boot on the slave cylinder? Because the luk replacement one does not have a bootAlso check through the boot that the clutch release is seated properly.
MoJo has an 84 which is different than the 87+ clutchI don’t think I follow what you mean. Like the boot on the slave cylinder? Because the luk replacement one does not have a boot
These small hydraulic clutches are 'no fun" to bleed. Make sure you have a nice tight pedal. You should feel some stiff resistance after just an 1/8 of travel with a new clutch. I just replaced mine on the 1996 a month ago ( with the luk kit) and the new clutch was like a night and day difference with pedal travel. If you did not notice a big difference in the stiffness of the clutch pedal you still have air in the system.
After at least 15 times bleeding the system …. I have found that the only way to get the air out of the master is to bench bleed it. You just do not get enough pressure ... using the pedal ... to push air bubbles out of the master. I made my wife pump that clutch pedal for days and all it did was piss her off …. now I can bench bleed the system by myself in about 30 minutes.
It is even worse if the master gets smaller …. like a ranger or Focus.
.
After at least 15 times bleeding the system …. I have found that the only way to get the air out of the master is to bench bleed it. You just do not get enough pressure ... using the pedal ... to push air bubbles out of the master. I made my wife pump that clutch pedal for days and all it did was piss her off …. now I can bench bleed the system by myself in about 30 minutes.
It is even worse if the master gets smaller …. like a ranger or Focus.
.
Yah I think I spent about and hour bleeding it and it felt almost as firm as my break pedal. But I believe I found the issue. It seems that the top bleeder line is leaking fluid so every time I use my clutch it’s sucking in air so I’ll never be able to properly bleed it. Thank you all for your helpThese small hydraulic clutches are 'no fun" to bleed. Make sure you have a nice tight pedal. You should feel some stiff resistance after just an 1/8 of travel with a new clutch. I just replaced mine on the 1996 a month ago ( with the luk kit) and the new clutch was like a night and day difference with pedal travel. If you did not notice a big difference in the stiffness of the clutch pedal you still have air in the system.
After at least 15 times bleeding the system …. I have found that the only way to get the air out of the master is to bench bleed it. You just do not get enough pressure ... using the pedal ... to push air bubbles out of the master. I made my wife pump that clutch pedal for days and all it did was piss her off …. now I can bench bleed the system by myself in about 30 minutes.
It is even worse if the master gets smaller …. like a ranger or Focus.
.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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