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Discussion Starter #1
I wanted to introduce myself and ask a few questions. I am form texas and just came across a great deal on a 96 bronco. I bought it dirt cheap, but it is going to need a little tuning up. The body is straight, the motor runs, but it needs a little tuning up to run great.

The truck is a 96 XL White, 5.0l engine, 4x4 and 105,000 miles. Anyways I hooked up a scan tool to it and got the following codes.
P1507- iIdle Air Control Under Speed Error
P0141-Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater circuit fault - Bank No. 1.
P0401-Insufficient EGR Flow.
P1131-Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1.
P0304-Misfire Detected - Cylinders 4
P0175-System Too Rich - Bank No. 2
P0307-Misfire Detected- Cylinder 7
P0171-System Too Lean - Bank No. 1

Any suggestions where to start? I am pretty handy as a mechanic, but I don't want to just start replacing things that don't need replaced. Is there anything that could lead to all these errors, or do they need to be addressed separately. Thanks in advance
 

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clean the IAC and EGR with carb cleaner and a toothbrush
check resistance on both and the O2 sensors as well

and lastly, since your just buying it, search for the 6litre tuneup and get it done
 

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I just bought a 96 bronco from a "mechanic" and said the only problem with the Bronco was a bad o2 sensor. Yeah...a thousand dollars later, I got the bronco running like a dream. Had the fuel system cleaned, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, egr valve and sensor replaced, fuel filter replaced, etc. I'm no mechanic. Wish I could have saved money and done most of these things myself. Good luck with your bronco!
 

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When replacing O2 sensors I would consider the Denso O2 vs a Bosch where the technical explanation basically states Bosch have a tendancy to run "rich" by it's own design.....just a thought!

Also:
There is a Ford Racing Performance Parts "idle setting procedure" Instruction Sheet (Techline (800) FORD788) steps 1-9 on How To adjust idle by disconnecting the IAC using the throttle body idle stop screw, drilling out the mounting screw holes on a newer "plug & play" TPS so you can adjust it for voltage setting.

In the past the ideal setting was thought to be .93-.97 volts or just under 1 volt but recently posted information regarding this appears the setting should be between .55v-.75 volts.


Posted by FSB member Jermil0 recently:

Wanted to update this thread based on some TPS adjustment information I got from one of my tuning sites. This goes against the conventional wisdom of setting the TPS closer to .95 range. Thoughts??

Regarding any ECU controlled function (and idling conditions in particular), before any strategy based adjustment can be made by a computer controlled system, it must first run somewhat normally in a default and OL mode.

To do this with a FORD you must first follow a few rules.

You must keep the TPS input above the deadband area and below the "tip in" area. On a FORD this equates to below approximately 0.9V and above 0.45. Anything above 0.90V the ECU thinks the throttle is starting to open. This brings into affect possible dashpot and fuel cut strategies which can turn one grey real fast. Below approx 0.40-0.45V the system suspects an incorrect input and substitutes a default figure.

So first off, the TPS should be set to around 0.55-0.75V. You can also disconnect the IAC then disconnect the battery for 15-20 minutes, reconnect and the computer should default back to factory settings.

www.broncolinks.com


Good Lucks ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advice and recommendations guys. I will try it and let you know how it goes.
 

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I just bought a 96 bronco from a "mechanic" and said the only problem with the Bronco was a bad o2 sensor. Yeah...a thousand dollars later, I got the bronco running like a dream. Had the fuel system cleaned, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, egr valve and sensor replaced, fuel filter replaced, etc. I'm no mechanic. Wish I could have saved money and done most of these things myself. Good luck with your bronco!
start reading. every thing you listed is way easy to replace and you could have had some nice tools and a good running bronco for a grand
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok guys, I cleaned the IAC and EGR, and replaced spark plugs and wires, and the engine is running a whole lot better. It also got rid of all the codes so far. I am going to try and run it for a while and see if any reappear.

I have a new problem now. When I first got it the transmission was acting funny slipping and acting like it didn't know when to shift gears. I replaced the neutral safety switch, because I would have to wiggle the shifter to get it to start, and then I cleaned all the electrical connections going to the transmission. After doing this the transmission ran perfect for about a day. Then yesterday I was out driving it after tuning up the engine and it just acted like it went into neutral and will not go into any forward gears, but will go into reverse fine. I rechecked all electrical connections and they seem fine. Could I have gotten a bad neutral safety switch?? Or do you think the trans is toast? It didn't slip or make any weird noises when it went into permanent neutral. Any ideas or tips would be greatly appreciated. I had also serviced the trans when replacing the NSS, changed fluids and filter.

Thanks for all the help and I don't plan on just leaving here after getting it going good. Hopefully I can help some others with similar problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No lights on the dash, and no O/D blinking. I just find it hard to believe that the trans just went out with out slipping before or making any weird noises. I am going to go over all the electrical stuff again. Maybe I will try the old mlps and see if it will get it moving.
 

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If you get a fault code: 67 - AC circut failure - NSS - in many cases it's not the NSS itself but rather can taken care of with the following. My 86 has an AOD with TV Cable and if you have to wiggle the column shifter to start more then likely the column shift linkage is out of "sync" with the transmission for PRNDL so in this case all that's required is, key on engine off, column shifter in the D position and secure it there so it can't move, going underneath the BKO on the drivers side loosen the column shift linkage "BOLT" just enough so you can click the transmission "TAB" all the way back until it stops then 2 clicks forward, tighten bolt place back in P with key off and the linakge is now in sync with the transmission and should eliminate that "wiggle"......Haynes Manual, ref. and illustration "Point A".

I figured the code :67 thing out when my reverse lights would be on in Park, wiggle the shifter to start etc.

Now this AOD procedure may not apply to your year BKO so you need to look in the Haynes Repair Manual under the transmission section, figure out what transmission you have i.e. AOD, E4OD or C series and see what if any "shift linkage" adjustments apply or if you can adjust the "electric solenoid" below that controls shifting or requires replacement along any adjustments to transmission cables that apply.

If any of this solves the problem then I would service the transmission with a filter/gasket kit and transmission fluid and you're go to go for a year or so.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just wanted to give everyone an update.

I got the tranny pulled out and it was definitely the problem. I tore into it and all the clutches on the forward drum were complete toast, nothing even left. I have a rebuild kit on the way, and hopefully I can get it all back together right. There sure are alot of parts haha.

Everything else in the tranny looked good. I am going to go ahead and replace all the seals, bearings, clutches, and steels. I am hoping that the bad solenoid connection causing it to shift incorrectly is what caused it to burn up. I am going to replace all of the electrical connectors as well.

Thanks for all the help so far, and I am sure I will need more.
 

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Welcome to FSB glad you found us. Make sure you vote for the site.
 
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