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'91 5.0 E4OD, 6" long-arm lift, shackle-flip, 35" Procomp M/Ts, 4.56 gears & lockers
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Discussion Starter #1
I guess you get what you pay for. I got the cheapo pacesetter headers because I was getting tired of the exhaust ticking from my cracked manifolds. Out of the box, I put a straight edge against them and they're both warped. I clamped my level against one side and used my feeler gauges to measure the gap on the other side. On one side it's .040 and on the other it's .055. it's really only noticable by the hole for the last cylinder in the bank. The gaskets that came with them won't take up that large of a gap. I know if I called Pacesetter and complained, they'd probably ship me out another set, but then what? Another warped set? I'm inclined to just take them to be machined, I can't imagine they'd charge more than $20/side or so. And then I know they'd be flat, and I'm not too concerned about losing a few thousandths of thickness on that flange.

So, should I: 1 Invest in a really good gasket like a remflex and just run it? Or 2 Have them machined flat locally? Or 3. Do both. Or 4. Have pacesetter send me a new pair. Or 5. Just run 'em as-is?

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You don't think the bolts will draw it to the head?

I agree they should be flat to begin with but what i can see of the face they look smooth so if the bolts draw it flat to the head they should seal.
 

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Option #4. At least give them a call and see what they say. They may opt for #5 or help pay for #'s 1-3...
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Send em back. My summit shorties (pace setter) were great and bolted up with no leaks.

OR find a spare head and bolt the header to it. Tighten down completely. Then take a torch and get the flange hot. Not white hot, but a mild cherry. Then let them cool slowly, preferably under a welding blanket. The slower the better. This should straighten the flange out.
 
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'91 5.0 E4OD, 6" long-arm lift, shackle-flip, 35" Procomp M/Ts, 4.56 gears & lockers
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Discussion Starter #5
Send em back. My summit shorties (pace setter) were great and bolted up with no leaks.

OR find a spare head and bolt the header to it. Tighten down completely. Then take a torch and get the flange hot. Not white hot, but a mild cherry. Then let them cool slowly, preferably under a welding blanket. The slower the better. This should straighten the flange out.
Big, did you check yours for flatness? I'm wondering how much variation is normal and whether, like norm said, tightening them will take up that .040-.055.

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Big, did you check yours for flatness? I'm wondering how much variation is normal and whether, like norm said, tightening them will take up that .040-.055.

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I did not check. Just stripped em, painted em, and bolted them on.
 

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95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 301K miles
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Bolt them on with some GOOD gaskets the flange will get pulled in with the bolts. The good gaskets can take up a lot of gaps they compress .060" or so, they are about .125" thick uncompressed.
 

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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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Bolt them on with some GOOD gaskets the flange will get pulled in with the bolts. The good gaskets can take up a lot of gaps they compress .060" or so, they are about .125" thick uncompressed.
Which gaskets do you guys reccomend for headers? Mine also leak at the flange.
 

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'91 5.0 E4OD, 6" long-arm lift, shackle-flip, 35" Procomp M/Ts, 4.56 gears & lockers
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Discussion Starter #9
Bolt them on with some GOOD gaskets the flange will get pulled in with the bolts. The good gaskets can take up a lot of gaps they compress .060" or so, they are about .125" thick uncompressed.
I'm going to call pacesetter Monday and see what they say. And I'll also see what my machine shop will charge to machine them. But if pacesetter says no problem and the machine shop is going to charge a lot then I'll just run 'em. If it's cheap to machine them I'll do that. And either way I'm going to get a good gasket.

I've read good things about Remflex, any other recommendations?

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I only use RTV. Ultra gray this last time.

Let it sit overnight before starting.
 

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'91 5.0 E4OD, 6" long-arm lift, shackle-flip, 35" Procomp M/Ts, 4.56 gears & lockers
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Discussion Starter #11
I only use RTV. Ultra gray this last time.

Let it sit overnight before starting.
I saw Steve83 recommended just chassis grease, said it got tacky and sealed up after it got hot.

So for RTV, you just put a ring around each opening, let it sit for half hour or so, install bolts finger-tight, then torque to spec the next day?

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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I went through a few sets, stacked sets and had repeating issues on my old 360. 1 good set of Remflex and no more issues. I wouldn't if you don't need it but if you do, if they don't do the trick you've got bigger problems.

I've had good luck with Pacesetters in the past. One of the older tech threads still around here was my first set install on my old '89's 351W.
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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Years ago I had someone suggest cutting the flange between bolts, so each port had its own 2 bolt flange. I didn't do it, because I thought each one might spring out of line & be a bugger to align. But it seemed like it might allow each to flatten out easier. Instead I took a flat file to the high spots & tightened them up good.
 

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I saw Steve83 recommended just chassis grease, said it got tacky and sealed up after it got hot.

So for RTV, you just put a ring around each opening, let it sit for half hour or so, install bolts finger-tight, then torque to spec the next day?

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I have not tried grease and probably never will but i have had the best luck with RTV.

I put a bead around every port and the only setting up it does prior to tightening is however long it takes me to get the header in position and start the bolts.

I tighten them completely and let it sit overnight.

A side benefit of RTV instead of gaskets is the bolts don't seem to loosen up, and i think with gaskets the gasket keeps cooking/compressing requiring snugging up the bolts often until they take a "set"

I check the bolts every now and again out of diligence,but haven't had to snug them at all since using RTV.

Also make sure the exhaust is supported well, the more wiggling around it can do can break the headers over time and contribute to the bolts loosening up.
 

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1) Call them and ask what normal flatness spec is before you tell them what you have
2) Big blue has a great recomendation that may flatten them out, so long as you have a spare head lying around and an Oxy/Acet torch. They may relax and get worse too.
3) Find an automotive machine shop and run them through a milling machine
 

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'91 5.0 E4OD, 6" long-arm lift, shackle-flip, 35" Procomp M/Ts, 4.56 gears & lockers
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Discussion Starter #16
1) Call them and ask what normal flatness spec is before you tell them what you have
2) Big blue has a great recomendation that may flatten them out, so long as you have a spare head lying around and an Oxy/Acet torch. They may relax and get worse too.
3) Find an automotive machine shop and run them through a milling machine
Good call on asking what spec is before telling them. Unfortunately I don't have a spare head laying around.

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Grease is ONLY for cast manifolds, and is jow the factory sealed them. There were no gaskets from the factory.
 

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Grease is ONLY for cast manifolds, and is jow the factory sealed them. There were no gaskets from the factory.
I was just logging in to reply this very answer. You beat me to it.
Grease works great on machined cast manifolds but not for headers.
I use a grease that has molybedum (i think that is what it is called)

EDIT:
I have also used grease on a difficult ball and socket collector on the same manifolds and it works there too.
The grease I used is a Motorcraft grease and is a charcoal or black grease. Not sure if the more common red greases will work in this application.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I was just logging in to reply this very answer. You beat me to it.
Grease works great on machined cast manifolds but not for headers.
I use a grease that has molybedum (i think that is what it is called)

EDIT:
I have also used grease on a difficult ball and socket collector on the same manifolds and it works there too.
The grease I used is a Motorcraft grease and is a charcoal or black grease. Not sure if the more common red greases will work in this application.
Got it. Thanks. I wasn't planning on using grease, just saw it mentioned. I'm leaning towards gaskets for headers, my concern is that even high temp rtv maxes out at like 650. Probably get the flanges nice and flat and go with a high quality gasket.

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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For your application, remflex is the best gasket. It's very thick and compresses very nicely.

Treat remflex gaskets like a piece of glass. Always hold it vertically, never lain flat. If it bends too much, itll break apart. Also make sure you have a very good seal around the header ports as possible. On my 300, I only had a 1/8" covering one gap, and it blew out fast.

I've since moved on from remflex, to Flatout brand gaskets. But that's on a super long 12 port gasket for the 300.
 
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