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Discussion Starter #1
Just got a new ignition key cylinder and it will not seat all the way. I even exchanged for another one thinking that there might have been a defect in the casting. The old one, that was old and not working correctly, goes in and out freely when in the "run" position, after depressing the pin. With the new cylinder in the exact same position, it only goes in one way because of the groves and the retaining pin, it will slide about 9/10ths of the way and stop.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would love to post a picture, but, it's just the key cylinder. It slides in smooth untill about an 1/8th of an inch before seating. Didn't think a picture would help.
 

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I don't really understand th symptoms you are describing but it sounds like the cylinder might not be your problem. There is a steel piece (i don't remember it's name) that connects to the cylinder and is part of the link down to the starter switch, that is known to break some times. Just FYI
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry, i tried to describe it the best I could. 76.Bronco said pictures might help but my daughter borrowed our camera. The part your talking about is the actuator. Its the rod that goes along the top of the column between the upper ignition actuator and the starter switch.

I'll try it again. My trouble is in replacing the key cylinder assembly. When trying to install the new assembly it will not go into the housing fully. It slides far enough to see the actuator rod move slightly but will not seat far enough to turn the key in any direction. It needs to somehow go in about 1/8th" more. I can take the old one in and out with no trouble, but the new one stops somehow.

I can't see any difference in the new vs old as far as the castings and the "T" on the ends are also identical.
 

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Just to clarify/confirm.......
1) you have rotated the new cylinder to approximately the run position
2) depressed the retaining pin completely flush with the lock case
3) inserted it in the column and it doesnt seat.

It just sounds like a small alignment issue, or possibly a burr.

.....check to make sure:

1) ....they gave you the correct lock. Newer locks look the same as older but are different. Worth checking, although from your description it sounds right.
2) .....the tailpiece and the slot in the gear are lined up. Double check to make sure there is nothing left behind inside the gear slot. Try re-installing the old one to make sure the gear hasnt moved. If it goes back in there problem is with the lock.

Did you remove the key buzzer switch?

You may need to jiggle the lock assy (without turning the plug inside the cylinder case) to get it to go in.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I agree that is was some trouble with the quality of the cylinder, Made in China, no dought. I went back to the parts store and exchanged for a new one thinking the same thing. I have verified that it is the correct replacement part, still nothing.

The most confusing part is that the old one still slides in and back out perfectly but is torn up really bad on the inside.
 

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Since you don't have your camera, describe the tailpiece or the end of the lock that goes toward the column. It doesnt sound like it's broken but this doesnt make sense.

If your old lock slides in and out, then the column ( slot, gear, actuator) is still "in-time" and the new one should slide in too. I was about to suggest you tap it lightly, but it should not need that.

I also misspoke, you dont have the column torn down do you? I am assuming the steering wheel is still in place The only way to remove the key buzzer is to have it down.

I am still wondering if their catalogue is wrong and they are selling you the wrong one. Where did you get it and do you have the part number?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks to all first of all, j.r. Nice, you have it perfect.

Just a brief history. The "old" cylinder turned fine, but more than once, if you didn't pull the key out just right it would cause the key recognition to think the key was still in and ping until I turned the switch just right with the key out. That's why I'm replacing it.

As of today I have tried 3 different cylinders. The last one I put so much grease on you could fry chicken. So far, all three, from 2 different shops do the same thing. Like J.R.Nice confirmed, the old lock slides in and out with NO trouble. My eyes are not what they used to be but I swear there is no difference, casing wise, between the two, LOL.
 

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yo dad!
I could swear I saw someone ask same Q elsewhere..eps the fried chicken part! lol
take a lok at this;

Parts Break-Out Diagram, Partial in 80-91 Tilt; part of TSB 95-23-12 Non-Tilt Key Hard to Turn in Cold
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
ck alignment and snap ring, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
First of all, thanks to everyone that shared their advice. It is great to know that there is somewhere to go that people want to help if they can!!! So, thanks to everyone again and again. With that said...
I am so pissed off and happy at the same time. My son came over to try and help, he asked if I cared if he tried to exchange the part again. At this point I was kind of embarrassed after three of them. I told him to go for it. He brought the new part home and guess what? the SOB slid right in!!!! No grease, no force. All this time they were defective parts, three of them. I can't even begin to say how pissed I am on this site because I don't want to offend anyone but you can imagine the words I had for these Made In China and Assembled in Mexico POS.
Deep breath and count to ten, crack a beer, LOL.
Special thanks to miesk5 for the awesome diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The first two were from Kragen's in west Roseville, the third was from Auto Zone also in west Roseville, the FOURTH was from Kragen's in east Roseville. I know.. you get what you pay for but fyi.. Ford wanted $68 for the same $10.88 part, they must be very proud of it, LOL.
 

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yo,
I am not amazed by the Quality of any parts or items coming out of China. A John Deere dealer and I almost went to da mats 3 yrs ago over wheel bearing fit. He told me I had no clue as to hot to install a WB on a tractor, let alond a toy car. This was after returning 2 WBs. I then took the spindle in and asked him to have his "ace"echanic try to install it. A few mins later, we both heard loud banging in the shop. We both looked thru the door and saw Ace banging away on the bearing with a ball peen and socket; he had tried the press already. The WBs were so far off it wasn't worth miking em like I did at home.

So, under my pic I have a little slogan....

btw, I buy a lot of Motorcraft parts (not parts that have a MC part number on em, but a genuine Ford MC part) via AMAZON and Troy Ford. Have bought from them via AMAZON a few times; saved over $100.00 Plus 7% sales tax and had free S&H on 2 recent purchases http://www.amazon.com/gp/browse.html?ie=UTF8&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&me=A18G8GVWHHIMY9
 
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