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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, I think my thermostat needs to be replaced and needed some help. I have searched on this site and most people say a 195 degree should do well. I looked up how to change it in the haynes manuel and it seems to simple. Is it really this easy, or is there like a special tool I would need? And how much anti-freeze would leak out, is it enough to need a bucket? Any heelp would be greatly appreciated especially since the weather lookes like it might hold up for only a couple hours.:thumbup
 

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its not hard at all. a 1/2in gear wrench is a nice tool. i always let it run down the driveway.you can flush out your block while youre at it too. sometimes it can be stubborn if you take bypass hose off too and try to fit a new one on. otherwise you just take the two bolts off, scrape the surface, install new thermostat and gasket/silicone and put it back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
And nappa should have both the T-stat and the gasket? Can you give me a price range so I know how much to bring?
 

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i put a pan under mine to catch any spillage, i only lost like maybe a cup worth of coolant into the pan. Its a simple job. 195 is pretty much the norm. Heres how i did mine....

Get 6 pack of beer,
Open first beer, take a sip
undo air breather hoses (for extra clearance)
take another sip
undo bolts on thermostat housing,
take another sip,
scrap old gasket crap off everything
another sip
put in new thermostat/gasket/rtv and tighten bolts
finish first beer
add some coolant to resevoir
open and finish the remaining 5 cans
next day put on airbreather hose you forgot the day before.
 

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chevysuck said:
And nappa should have both the T-stat and the gasket? Can you give me a price range so I know how much to bring?
like 10 bucks.unless you dont already have the special "6 pack" tool then 15

thermostat should run you like 4-7 bucks. I dont know if there even is a gasket. i just use permatex 2.49 a tube
 

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if your tstat has been sticking like mine was your water outlet housing, or gooseneck or whatever might be crusted up with stuff you may have never seen before. i replaced mine for like 8 bucks, saved me time scraping the crap off anyway.
 

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they have different kinds of t-sats too. there is some that spin open and let more water through then the other kind that pulls open. Just something to think about, a like stock one will probably work fine too. i think that 20 should cover everything, even if you have to get more antifreeze.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well, I replaced everything and tightened it all up, then added new anti-freeze because I decided to flush the rad while I was there. the damn thing leaks now. What should I do? Take it all apart and add silicone or something? Just to clarify, it is not coming from the hose.
 

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yes a thin layer of blue silicone is always a good idea. one time i had a bronco that would never seal properly with a thermostat in it so i had to leave it out, needless to say the bronco died shortly after due to natural causes. did you scrape it real good with a razorblade? i like to put the tstat in the outlet housing, put the gasket over it because it overlaps some, then smear a generous helping of silicone around the outside and bolt holes.
 

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chevysuck said:
well, I replaced everything and tightened it all up, then added new anti-freeze because I decided to flush the rad while I was there. the damn thing leaks now. What should I do? Take it all apart and add silicone or something? Just to clarify, it is not coming from the hose.

mine was leaking, so i used indian head gasket goop on the new gasket and it sealed up sweet. i also i went from a 180 to a 195 deg. t-stat and now my engine runs over 210 pretty much all the time. the other day i was up around 230 deg, which is way to high for me. i am thinkin about going back to the 180 deg.
 

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'bout the leaky t-stat housing, same thing happened to me. :banghead if your t-stat is like mine... mounted vertically, then take off the return hose when placing it back on, and hold the t-stat in place with a finger or two while making everything tight... then crack open the beer. :beer
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
all done i just used some slicone and problem fixed
 

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So I'm having the same problem. Checysuck- did you use a gasket or not, and what type of silicone did you use? Thanks.
 

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Very important! When you mount the upper radiator hose, make sure you twist it a little to keep it from touching the serpintine belt. This is experience talking. I had a belt rub through my hose Once. Also, this is the one job I used permatex on the gasket since it is stickier than silicone.
 

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Very important! When you mount the upper radiator hose, make sure you twist it a little to keep it from touching the serpintine belt. This is experience talking. I had a belt rub through my hose Once. Also, this is the one job I used permatex on the gasket since it is stickier than silicone.
Yeah, the belt's rubbed a gash into the hose so I know what you're talking about. Permatex on the gasket worked well? Where do you put the gasket in relation the thermostat, meaning between it and the black, or between it and the housing?
 

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Chevysucks

Notice the shorter bolt in the pic ?



I sawed that shorter and it saves plenty of time on re-installation.

SIxlitre
 

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Yep, I dremeled mine down a little too. Some Permatex in there does a great job of holding the stat in place while you're putting it back together.

Just don't do what one of the morons that works for my mechanic did, and put the thing in backwards :doh0715:

Couldn't figure out what was going on with my engine temp, figured I had a bad stat until I looked at it and it was backwards.
 

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I'll try the shorter bolt and permatex. My dad put the thermostat in backwards on his camaro like 20 years ago. It actually blew the top hose off.
 
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