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1986 XLT 5.0
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After 6 year of slight nudging on my part I talked my Aunt into selling me her 1986 XLT. Has the 5.0 with 4 speed auto. She bought it brand new in 86 when I was 1yo. Loved it since I was a little kid. It has been stored in here garage since new. 147K miles.
Things I have done so far.
New rims and tires
New Wires, plugs, cap, and rotor
New oils all around
New Master Cylinder and Brake booster (was leaking pretty good)
A good cleaning inside and out.

It runs great. Has a small leak from the rear main seal (to address at a later date)
Also has a little rust above a few wheels I need to take care of soon.
Only current problem is once it warms up it doesn't like to start without me giving it some gas. Then it runs fine. I have ordered a new ICM and Coolant sensor per a few other forum discussions we found here. If that doesn't do it anything else it could be?

Thanks

180594


180595
 

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After 6 year of slight nudging on my part I talked my Aunt into selling me her 1986 XLT. Has the 5.0 with 4 speed auto. She bought it brand new in 86 when I was 1yo. Loved it since I was a little kid. It has been stored in here garage since new. 147K miles.
Things I have done so far.
New rims and tires
New Wires, plugs, cap, and rotor
New oils all around
New Master Cylinder and Brake booster (was leaking pretty good)
A good cleaning inside and out.

It runs great. Has a small leak from the rear main seal (to address at a later date)
Also has a little rust above a few wheels I need to take care of soon.
Only current problem is once it warms up it doesn't like to start without me giving it some gas. Then it runs fine. I have ordered a new ICM and Coolant sensor per a few other forum discussions we found here. If that doesn't do it anything else it could be?

Thanks

View attachment 180594

View attachment 180595
You are a lucky one!
 

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1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
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450 Posts
Love it! Very 80’s, very cool.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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~*~*~*~*~*~*~
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10,412 Posts
That is a sharp looking 86!
I think you're on the right track with the ECT.

However, the fuel filters on these tend to be a big PITA and get neglected. That could ALSO be your issue. Lucky for you, I did a write up on how to change it.

 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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846 Posts
Great looking Bronco, and great graphics package on there. Are those stickers or painted on?

When buying any sensors try to always buy Motorcraft when ever possible. I made the mistake of buying some non Motorcraft items, only to have them fail just out of the 90 day warranty.

If you pull your plastic liners out of the rear wheel wells, you can wire brush and clean up the inside of the metal somewhat, but you'll see exactly why you have the rusted wheel well lip, just a water/dirt trap design by ford with the reinforcements. Between the wheel liner and the rear quarter panel, but luckily yours is in great shape compared to mine that I'm repairing right now & that's why you did well to buy nice trucks from a dessert climate!!

180608
 

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aaaah there is a filter in there! The way I read the Haynes manual was it’s a holding tank for when the pick runs out of fuel on extreme angles. And the filter in the manual lead towards a little inline canister looking thing right near the end of the line at injection system.
of course I’ve decided to piss it all off, I spent a lot of money trying to figure it out and pay for a pro to diagnose it. He couldn’t so I bit the billet and I’m 3/4 of the way of Carby swap.
Although I’m a car guy and have a lot of respect for keeping old cars original. The cost and PITA of not being able to drive my new toy but also the wiring was completely shot everywhere. Hacked into, bare wires all over the place, too many stupid modules and sensors for my liking. Although it’s not running yet I’m very happy with my decision. I’ll post an update once it’s running. 👍👍👍
 

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28,133 Posts
Yo trentthack,
Welcome!


Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.

Do KOEO test First. Post Code(s) here according to KOEO & KOER.
A helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.

BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTS

Or ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you.
Or purchase a coder reader such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.
Ignition Control Module (ICM) top three leads (for PIP signal) can lose continuity with the back plate (ground) on the module when the unit is hot. You should consider a remote mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM).
Ignition Control Module (ICM) Location pic @ distributor in an 89



it's the rectangular object with wires on right side.
Pic by Handy_andy_cv64 (Ed )

Take your ignition module off and have it tested. Have them test it up to three times. If it fails any one of those times, replace it.
Ignition Control Module (ICM) Removal Tips @ distributor; "...To remove the TFI = thick film integrated module you need to loosen the saftey "lock bolt" at base of the distributor so you can TURN the distributor for better access and removal but make a referecne mark so you can turn the distributor back exactly where it was otherwise you'll have to re-set the timimg so it will start and run properly. There's a special tool "ignition module socket, mfg by Powerbuilt # 648420 so you can remove the screws on the module to replace it BUT to test it you just need to turn the ignition key to the "RUN" position, engine off. don't remember what I paid for the "socket" maybe $15.00 range...?
Source: by our late friend, JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) RIP MY FRIEND...

Ignition Control Module Relocation & Modified Mount in a 90
Source: by Seattle FSB

Another Stalls When Hot Tests without a Code:
Following can be considered:
" LONG CRANK—STICKING IDLE AIR CONTROL Article .
(IAC) VALVE—VEHICLES BUILT FROM 11/1/94 97-9-5 THROUGH 3/30/96
• STALL—AFTER STARTING WHEN ENGINE ALLOWED TO SOAK FROM 1-4 HOURS—STICKING IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) VALVE—VEHICLES BUILT FROM 11/1/94 THROUGH 3/30/96
FORD: 1995-1996 CONTOUR, CROWN VICTORIA,
"...After a 1-4 hour engine soak time, long crank times and/or long crank to start followed by a stall may occur on some vehicles. No further stalling or rough idle will occur after the engine is running. The long crank and/or stall may be due to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve sticking. Replace the IAC Valve with a revised IAC Valve if no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are present."
180609

pic by Steve83 (BANNED)

Read more and see IAC ValveTesting, etc @ Fuel Injection Technical Library » Idle Air Bypass (IAB) by absent member Fireguy50 (Ryan M.)


As you've done to discuss any issues, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie section. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories that require 50 posts to buy, sell or trade due to scammers who preyed on our members too many times.

Here's the 86 Bronco Dealer Brochure at 1983 Ford Bronco 86 Bronco Brochure Photos pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net

1986 EVTM - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible) by Ford via Gary

1985-1986 Fuel System Adjustments by Ford via Gary

1986 Bronco Operating Guide by Ford via Gary @ 1983 Ford Bronco Manuals & Pamphlets (Scanned) picture | SuperMotors.net

1986 Owner Guide by Ford via Gary

1986 Exterior Colors by Ford via Gary

1986 Bronco Accessories Catalog by Ford via Gary. @ 1986 Ford Light Truck Accessories Brochure

1980-86 Pickup Fasteners by Ford via Gary, but mostly for front clip

1986 Bronco Rapid Specs Guide by Ford via Gary @ 1986 Ford Light Truck Accessories Brochure

1986 Color & Trim Selection Options by Ford via Gary

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf. via BroncMom

See How to add your Signature @ Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum by BigBlue 94

Forum FAQs includes for example, Hot to Use Search. How To Save (Bookmark) Threads Or Posts, How To Upload Images To Posts and more tips!

Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links) including, "how do I get the tailgate glass to...", etc

Try to find time to Participate and vote in our Full-Size of the Month and later in the year, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
Prizes are awarded to the winner; a full spread in Bronco Driver Magazine is the top prize, in addition to a years subscription, once the article is submitted; & a years worth of premium FSB membership.
Al
 

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1986 XLT 5.0
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the info. I will start looking into all this on the starting and let you know.
The graphics are painted. She bought it straight white and took it to a custom paint shop the week she bought it and had it done. It has the blue matching interior that it is perfect shape as well.
 

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just jumping in to say grats! that thing looks amazing.
 

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1988 5.0L E/B AOD, bone stock+ 1993 5.8L E/B, E4OD, 4"lift with 33's
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1,310 Posts
Very nice indeed! Now take good care of it and keep Auntie happy!
 

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After 6 year of slight nudging on my part I talked my Aunt into selling me her 1986 XLT. Has the 5.0 with 4 speed auto. She bought it brand new in 86 when I was 1yo. Loved it since I was a little kid. It has been stored in here garage since new. 147K miles.
Things I have done so far.
New rims and tires
New Wires, plugs, cap, and rotor
New oils all around
New Master Cylinder and Brake booster (was leaking pretty good)
A good cleaning inside and out.

It runs great. Has a small leak from the rear main seal (to address at a later date)
Also has a little rust above a few wheels I need to take care of soon.
Only current problem is once it warms up it doesn't like to start without me giving it some gas. Then it runs fine. I have ordered a new ICM and Coolant sensor per a few other forum discussions we found here. If that doesn't do it anything else it could be?

Thanks

View attachment 180594

View attachment 180595
Nice looking Bronco. You’re going to love it.
 

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Sweet 80's stickers!

Good choice on the wheel addition. They look nice.
Welcome to Bronco world.
 

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Amazing Bronco. Take good care of it!
 

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Only current problem is once it warms up it doesn't like to start without me giving it some gas. Then it runs fine. I have ordered a new ICM and Coolant sensor per a few other forum discussions we found here. If that doesn't do it anything else it could be?
Perhaps the TPS, but that is VERY unlikely.
Once you have replaced the above ordered parts, let us know where you are at.
And if they don't correct your problem, then pull diagnostic codes, if you don't know how... ask. That is the next step.
 
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