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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, Im new to the Bronco world since I just bought a '92 FSB. :thumbup

The problems, as with any used vehicle, are many. But thank heavens for this great site! I've already found usefull help from you guys by doing searches. However, heres some questions I was unable to find info on (probably because they're so simple no one bothers to write about it) that I was hoping someone could shed light on:

1. I've changed many brake pads in my life but for some reason, these calipers aren't your everyday calipers....Anyone know where the bolts to remove them are?

2. The engine knocks real bad now as if theres a loose rod in there somewhere. Anyone know this symptoms of having a blown engine? :banghead

ANYINFO ON THESE ISSUES WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!
 

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Good move on the search first. And Welcome to FSB. The calipers have no bolts. They are held on by two pins. You will see them easily now that you know they are there. You simply take a hammer and flathead screwdriver (or something like it) and tap them through. You will notice they each have a small lip on one side of them. That is to hold them in better. So when you slide them back in, the lip should be facing up on the top and facing down on the bottom. Doesn't hurt to grease them a bit too. Hope that made sense. As far as the engine I am not exactly sure. Knocking is not good. How many miles on it? I am currently doing an engine rebuild in mine. It blew a piston at 140k.
 

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knocking is def. not good but there could be light at the end of the tunnel. the lesser of 2 evils is that it could be a pre ignition prob. have torn down some engines that someone said it was knocking to find absolutly no signs on the bearings but the piston and head was coated in carbon that at temp creates a hot spot and produces pre ignition though this usually has more of ping tone to it then a knock but has happened, the other evil is piston slap, ether way sounds like a rebuild might be onn its way. for shits and giggles do an oil change and use a thicker oil quieted my knock down.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for responding.

I do see the pins as well as their lips....thanks boulder.

Leonard and Steell, I have a 302 with 157,000 long miles on it. At first for the past month, the knock was just on a cold start. Id turn the engine, rpms would go up and it would do a sloppy, very mechanical, metal to metal, "clack, clack, clack" 3 or 4 times until RPMs went down to idle and it would stop! WEIRD. As of last night it started doing it upon acceleration and idle for 2 minutes then stop.... :wtf
thanks.

How much for a rebuild....or new engine?
 

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Rod and main knocks are going to be consistant, piston slap is usually heard on cold start up (every time). Used 5.0's abound, and they are commonly had for $500 or less.
Next time it starts making the noise, use a short piece of garden hose, put one end to your ear, and use the other end like a stethosope to locate the noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah its EVERY start up. Must be piston slap then. $500 bucks for block, crank shaft, rods & pistons? Or does that include everything up top too? (heads, intake upper and lower...etc)

Just fixed the brake issue with some mig-grade pads....thats one problem down , many to go. Even though the previous owners didn't take care of it like he should of, I will. Im pretty happy with my Bronco.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Spend $1000 for a cheap longblock swap (I'm trying too)
or... nickle dime the rebuild for around $700 - $800, but if anythings real bad... you'll spend the grand and do all the work too.

Just what I've been able to find in my area. :shrug
 

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Welcome aboard Hoss92, go on up to the introductions section and tell the gang hi! :beer
Also check out the Dixie section, we're putting together some runs in Fla.
Like Pepe` said ya might as well go the long block route..a lil more expensive but covers all problems top and bottom, if you've got the money I'd suggest doing a Ford Reman...again more expensive but they got a pretty kickin' warrenty (it's what I did) :thumbup
Again welcome to the club, it's a great place to be! :rebelflag

P.S. don't forget to vote FOTM, FOTY(in the FOTM section) and top 4x4 (by clicking on the top4x4 link at the top of the page, once it opens the new window your vote has been tallied) :beer
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Blaze said:
if you've got the money I'd suggest doing a Ford Reman...again more expensive but they got a pretty kickin' warrenty (it's what I did) :thumbup
Reman = Remanufactured right? Sorry, Im new. :duh

Yeah money is definitely an issue, as I'm a full time college student. What site are those ford remanufactured ones on? Also, I'd have to find someone to drop it in since its my daily driver and I cant be dilly daddling with it myself. How much would someone do that for?

I guess once this is done and all the creaks and groans the interior panels and such make, Itll be perfect and I'd definitely check you guys out at that Florida run...but till then, baby steps.

THanks for the help and welcome.
 

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Personally, money being an issue, (it always is with me), I search the local classifieds, and check out the local junkyards/recyclers/the place where they part out cars, and get a used engine. Smaller junkyards are usually cheaper.

Go to http://car-part.com/index.htm and search. It will list the engines available by State, some have mileage posted, although it covers mostly the larger junkyards. Probably ought to stick to a truck motor, less computer related stuff to deal with (roller cam/mass air/etc).

Probably around $400 - $500 to swap a motor, I'm not familiar with Miami prices so it could be more (or less, but I doubt it).

BTW, before you do anything else, take it to a reputable shop, and have them check it out.
 

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You might try changing your oil filter. Some have poor return valves that allow the oil to drain back when it shouldn't. Maybe that will help and is a cheap trial.

HTH

Tim
 
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