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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, So I have gotten myself into a place I hate to be. I feel like I am throwing parts at my truck tryign to fix a Problem. I need your help and I am going to provide what i have doen so far.

About a month ago, my truck started to Not Turn the Engine over. It would click, but then nothing. Then sometimes it would turnover and start just fine. So Since then.. in my spare time I have...

Checked the Battery Voltage with a Multimeter and got a Strong 12.6V. So I took off the starter and took it down to have tested. It functioned fine on the bench, but was drawing too much amperage. I though possibly due to the cold weather, it was just a bit more than my old battery would support. So, I bough another one.

Installed it, turned the key over..every thign turned over, fired up. Then I stoped at the gas station, got gas, started it again and parked her at homw for a few days.

Came out... wouldn't start, just clicked. Being that I once worked at a parts store, I knew to put a charger on my batery to gurnatee full charge. Did that, then it started... hey maybe it was the battery all along... drove the the parts store. Let them replace it LOL.

Well before taking it out, I had them test the alternator. Even though I was showing 14.X Volts while it was running.. I figure what they hey. Alternator tested fine. So, we shut it down, removed the battery, took it in for testing. It tested Bad under Load.

Replaced Battery, noticed the + cable not holding on too well, but holding so I didn't think too much about it.... started fine.. drive home. Really though I had this licked, so I drove it to work the next day. Started fine in the morning. Sat at work, then went to start it in the evening... started fine, but since mine is carbed and I didn't let it warm up long enough when I droped in in reverse, it spit sputtered and died. So, I try to crank it back over.. nothing just a click. Sit there for a few minutes, call a few people to see who can come help...while I am on the phone, I try it again... this time it cranks and runs. Drive to the gym, shut it off... come out an hour later. Cranks just fine and I drive home.

Next day I go out... hmm no crank just a click. Screw it.. Take the other truck to work. Thinking about the inconsistancy of it all and decide maybe its the cable. So I pick one up on the way home... replace it. Cranks... drive it around. Make sure it gets good and warm. Everyting seems ok. Bring it home... tuen it off. Then try to fire it back up cranks just fine.

Next morning.. no crank again. Just a click. WTF Man... So I took the other truck to work again.. pick up a starter relay on the way home. It was kind of upside down from the one on the truck... but I installed it... put the small wire to the S matching how the other one was wired up. Put the battery cables on, and then went to try to crank it. Once It Cranked... it just kept cranking... even with the key out of the ingition. I had to stop it by pulling the - battery cable off.

So, please help stop the instanity. Before I replace my ignition switch... help me figure out What the heck is going on here.

I dead some searching, but didn;t find anythign like this. I love this truck and miss driving it. Help! :whiteflag
 

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Did you clean your battery cables? You have 2 problems that I've had, 1 - click ended up being dirty cables, 2 - constant turnover ended up being the starter solenoid on the starter but seeing as you have an 84 You shouldn't have one on there unless its been changed this way. If you do, what happens is that the solenoid gets dirty and keeps the contacts frozen together to cause the turning over without the key. Hope this helps.:beer
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did you clean your battery cables? You have 2 problems that I've had, 1 - click ended up being dirty cables, 2 - constant turnover ended up being the starter solenoid on the starter but seeing as you have an 84 You shouldn't have one on there unless its been changed this way. If you do, what happens is that the solenoid gets dirty and keeps the contacts frozen together to cause the turning over without the key. Hope this helps.:beer

Well, the Batery is new and so is the Positive Cable. I will try Cleaning the Negative tomorrow evening. That will have to follow...

The Constant Cranking since I changed the Solinoid on the fender. I wonder if I wired it wrong... or if its just bad. Is there a way to wire them wrong... the ignition switch is going ot the S post.

Could it be the ignition switch?
 

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you can by pass the ignition switch by direct wiring the solenoid to the battery & simply using your own on off switch, i had this clicking problem on mine & put a switch under the dash that simply gives power to the solenoid., i use my ingition key to give power to accessories & ignition to the truck but my switch simply turns over the motor, so i can crank it but it wont start if i dont put my key in, i think its your solenoid giving you problems, & if you have a seperate switch like i do youll soon elimate the key barrell as the problem & begin narrowing it down.
mine also acts as a deterent if someone try's to pinch it, they must turn both ignition & switch for solenoid.
cheers !!!!!!!!!

REMEMBER, HERE IN AUSTRALIA,.... TO GET OUR BOLTS REALLY TIGHT.......STRIP IT......THEN BACK IT OFF 2 TURNS....
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
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I would put the old solenoid back in, wired the way it was originally. Since the old one clicked, the key switch sounds like it was working ok. Once it's back in, you can test the voltage between the negative battery post & the starter side of the solenoid when it acts up. 12v with the key in the start position & it's probably good, 0v & it's bad.

I agree with sackman, clean & inspect the cables 1st. They are probably the most common problem on vehicles of this age, & should be inspected anyway. They can definately cause intermittant problems.

You have a new positive cable from battery to solenoid. Check the cables from solenoid to starter, & battery to frame to block (Sometimes 1 cable with multiple rings, sometimes 2 cables). Especially where the negative attaches to the block & frame, it seems to be where it frequently acts up with age. Look for dirty or loose connections, corroded cables, or swollen insulation. Clean, tighten & replace as needed. If you buy any more cables, look for heavier guage wire, it'll be worth it in the long run.

Make sure the starter mounting bolts are tight too.

If that doesn't solve the problem, there's more to look for, but you need a good starting point. Having a good battery & good clean tight cables gives you a base to work from. Let us know how it goes.
 

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As inexpensive as cables are, I would just replace them with a heavier gauge set like the previous poster suggested.
 

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i also think you do have that relay wired backwards. you said it was upside down so i do believe that battery and starter wires are crossed
 

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you cant go with a much larger cable bc eventually bigger isnt better for electrical wire. You want it to be big enough to be adaquet but not too big where you are tring to send a current over too much of a mass of copper. You will lose too much power before it gets to its destination
 

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what?
i think it is the ign switch unless you are 100% sure the "clicking" you are hearing is the starter sel. next time it wont turn but click, go ahead and jump a hot (+) wire from the batt to the S term of the sel. if she turns over (wont start unless key is "on") its the ign switch.
 

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i also think you do have that relay wired backwards. you said it was upside down so i do believe that battery and starter wires are crossed
I agree, and that clicking was the old silinoid not fully opening.
 

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My 90 did that atleast once a month. After alot of tracking down and frustration, I found out that the starter's positive wire had gotten loose.
 

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deja vu

It was kind of upside down from the one on the truck... but I installed it... put the small wire to the S matching how the other one was wired up. Put the battery cables on, and then went to try to crank it. Once It Cranked... it just kept cranking... even with the key out of the ingition. I had to stop it by pulling the - battery cable off.
I just had that same crap happen to me this weekend. I mean everything in that quote. Turns out the seloniod was wrong one. It was a "constant power selonoid" or something similar to that name. I am sure some of guys can tell the exact name. The one they sold me orignally was all black. The working one was brown and black. Take that thing back man and get a different one.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well gentlemen, I appreciate all of your help. It sounds like you guys have been down this road before.

So, when I got home tonight, I disconnected all the cables, and checked continuity across the solinoid to see if it was still stuck open. It wasn't so I wired everything back up, except for the ingition switch lead.

I cehcked the voltage at the ignition switch lead going to the relay with the Key on to see if it was continually sending power. I got a reading of .2V DC. Fiar enough, thats not the problem.

Loosened the negative battery cable so I could pull it off quickly, got a 8ga scrap wire to touch the positive battery terminal to the relay(S terminal).... it clickt in, turned over the starter and I let off.

Didn't have a partner to turn the key for me... so I pluged everythign up, just the way I had it last night, turned the key over... and it cranked. Let off and i stopped :banghead Not what it was doing last night.

So, I took the negative battery clamp off, cleaned the inside of the ring with some sand paper wrapped around a metal pin and re-installed. Everythign seems to be workign ok.

So in summary, I think the root of the issue was the oxidation formed inside the Negative battery cable. I have some other Electrical Grimlins going on that I am going to follow and see if they clear up as well (Aftermarket tach installed that doesnt always have power, even though its grounded to bare metal under the dash and its 12V+ is on the radio wire and the radio works fine, Gas gage that doesnt read properly, 1/4 tank = empty... learned the hardway).

However. The battery was Old and weak an on its way out. The Starter was pulling too much Amperage, the positive battery Terminal clamp would not hold on tight, and I know I have seen the starter solinoid smoke before while trying to get it started after runnign dry out of gas. So all were probably not in the greatest of shape. Although probably had usefull service left on them. Well, new parts = more reliability I hope.

Lets just hope everythgin functions in the morning the way it did tonight:popc1:
 
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