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my dad was at a stop light and went to put it in fist no go and he tried second no go. so i got home and there is no gears its like i can slide it in first or second with out the clutch in i think it the shift fork broken.:banghead is there any wright ups? is this common for this trans?
 

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yeah apparently this is very common in these transmissions the shift forks wear down and either break or I have heard they get so worn they pass over the gear and the shift rail pops through its hole in the top plate; I literally just posted a thread for info on replacing the forks because mine lock up really bad and I can abrely get it into gear because they are worn (i originally thought it was synchros), but taking the top plate off to check out the forks is really easy. I am going to replace mine as soon as i can so they don't break or anything and so it shifts nice. Here is a thread I found in another site this sounds like it might have happened to your trans:

http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=78228

Getting the top plate off to check out the forks is really easy I did it to replace these three rubber plugs that leak a lot of fluid on mine, there are writeups everywhere on how to do it, google something like "M5OD rubber plug replacement." There might be one on this site I'm not sure.
I hope this helped good luck
 

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Yeah it looks a lot like the t5, but I'm not familiar with a borg warner - is it in a jeep cj or something? - On ebay I found one rebuilt used top plate with new forks for $225 (see the link below), but go and check out my thread somebody just responded saying he got an entire top plate with the forks at the junkyard for 30 bucks and threw it in. I remember an old thread when I was trying to figure out my problem and he had the exact same thing going on as I did, and the used plate solved the issue. Thats a used plate but if the forks are in nice enough shape I'd say go scope out a junkyard first. I only got about 100k out of the forks I have now but my bronco used to have a smaller plow on it too, so I think the 1st-2nd fork got a lot of use, and its by far the worst feeling shift fork. so if you can find a top plate at the junkyard with nice forks already on it, i say why not.

If you don't want to do that I found a couple sites I might try if I don't have any luck at the junkyard;

http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3856842/5529318.htm - just the forks, but they are only $33 a piece

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-M5R2-F...ies&vxp=mtr&hash=item2a14fe6eae#ht_500wt_1155

There are also cast iron shift forks somewhere on ebay. When you search online try using both 'M5OD' and 'M5R2' thats how I found the top plate because some things will come up only if you type in m5r2, etc. But if you're looking at the stuff online make sure it's for an M5OD-R2, not the M5OD-R1 its a slightly different transmission
 

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you can go to the dealer and get em. but they are 100 bucks. i googled it when mine went and found a few sites with them for 35 bucks. while you got the top off of the trans it would be a good idea to do the 3rd and 4th fork. took me a weekend to do, but if you dont lose the interlock pin like i did its about 6 hours of work. I had a thread with some hints but only pictures of the top cover off.

heres a quote of what i put in my thread of some hints. ive edited it to sound more simple since i read alot of writeups and didnt know what all the names of the pins were
* when you take the top of the transmission off, cover the bottom half with a towel imediatley after inspecting the gears.

* pay attention to the notches on the rod holding the forks before removing them. take pictures of the positions of them like its a photoshoot. it will help SOOO much.

* there are 2 slim pins, 2 fat ones, 3 springs and ball bearings, do not lose these, the slimmer pin cost 15 bucks, and its just a little bigger than a grain of rice. the slim one goes in the notches in the rod, the fat ones go in the guides for the rods on the sides, and the spring and bearings go in the bottom and can shoot up at you. when re installing the rod, push down with the biggest allen wrench that will fit. an extra set of hands really helps for this


* remove the shift forks in this order 5th and reverse, 1st and 2nd, then 3rd and 4th. put them back in the opposite order.

* the only rod that has to come out all the way is the 5th and reverse, to remove them, wrap a towel around them and use a vice grip to rotate them and pull them, bearing grease helps ALOT. you can tell the 5th and reverse selector because its not a fork, and theres 2 parts on the rod. the 3rd and 4th fork is the middle, the last one is for 1st and 2nd

* there are bushings on the top half they are identical, replace these as they are most likely worn, it will make it shift better too

*replace you fluid while you have the top cover off, its so much easier than pumping it the fill hole, just get a 24mm socket for the drain plug, i used a 3 foot breaker bar and some PB blaster to undo that sucker.

and heres the only useful pic i took
this one shows the order of all the gears. and the wear on 1st 2nd

 

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junk setup... not trying to bash you guys' rigs but these trannys are junk... not so much the tranny but the shifter setup... i had an 80 model f100 with a 4 speed and it had the rods that hooked to linkage on the side of the tranny and it was pretty much bullet proof
 

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oh i also found a freeze plug out of it
probably the cap that you have to remove to push the rods out with. hold onto it it should just go right back into place just tap it in. and yes you can do it from inside. just remove the shifters, peel back the carpet/vinyl and the transmission hump is right there, unbolt it and pry it off and there is your tranny. i wouldnt drop the trans unless the clutch was given ya trouble but thats just me
 
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