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Discussion Starter #1
My 89 stoped starting via the key about two weeks ago. I can starting by jumping the terminals on the starter relay. I replaced the old relay anyway, just to be sure it wasn't an internal issue with the relay.

I've read through the threads on the upper actuator and gone through the checks on that one. The rod moves back and forth with the key, and driving it down further with a pair of pliers doesn't start the truck. The key cylinder springs back like it should and there are no other issues that I can find.

Thoughts on this one? Any more tests to determine the root cause?

Thanks!
 

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First I would check for voltage on the ign switch wire at the starter relay, I believe its the small red one. If you have nothing there then take a look at your ign switch, located on the steering column by the firewall, (thats what the rod pushes into). Make sure its plugged in and sending voltage to the relay.
 

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AKA: Butthead
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Here's what JJ is talking about, it's white plastic with a cast zinc body
and it's there hanging from its wires just above the gas pedal...


I used one of these things for a a few month to start my Bronco, just
slid the slider holding the switch in one hand and the cotter pin puller in
the other...


Might try out your new switch before putting everything back together? ;)

Alvin in AZ
 

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If you turn the ignition key to RUN and drive the ROD forward/downward which hooks into a slot in the ignition switch it should start the vehicle so the issue could be with the ignition switch lower down on the steering column which mounts on 2 threaded studs with 2 IIRC 7/16" nuts.

Looking at the picture in post #3 you see the ignition switch dangling there, notice the "elongated mounting slots" on it.......that's for "additonal" timing adjustment moving either up or down to match the timing of the "drive gear" above inside the steering column so when the ignition is key turned to RUN/START...ALL parts involved need to rotate forward/downward and the ROD attached the upper ignition actuator travels the correct distance to "trigger" the ignition switch and START the vehicle......so possibly the "timing" may be off either above or * below at the switch.


Switches are inexpensive so replace it if it has test issues....

If the upper ignition actuator were broken nothing would happen when you turned the ignition key to RUN/START, like a dead battery not even a click BUT with the key turned to RUN you can jump the "starter relay" to start or use the ROD/pliers technique.

The way to tell if the upper actuator is getting ready to break, you have to rotate the key much further, turning it all the way over where it gets harder to turn with almost nothing left to turn/start or spring back when it starts.

To inspect the key cylinder all you need to do is look for the little "slot" on the column directly below the key cylinder and with the key turned to "RUN" using a sharp pointed tool "push up" and it pops right out, now looking inside you'll notice the track top and bottom where the cylinder slides in, a snap ring holding the washer with a specific shape in the middle then the "brass drive gear" with teeth on it top with the same specific shape which is also on the end of the key cylinder which fits in both.

To correctly time the drive gear starting from right to left, the top 3rd tooth in should line up with the middle of the top track for the key cylinder......now you have all key functions i.e. RUN/START, OFF/LOCK and AUX.....

You may have to play with several times to get it right...

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Hi guys,
I am having a similar issue with my 95 Bronco. It cranks but doesn't start. I replaced fuse # 6 and it worked fine for 2 days and stopped once again. Changing fuse didn't help afterwards. Finally, I changed the 15amp fuse with a 20 amp and it worked for like 5 minutes. Didn't hear the engine run after that. I am a new member and won't be able to start a new thread till I have 30 posts. Please let me know how to solve this problem. Thank You
 

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AKA: Butthead
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Hi guys,
I am having a similar issue with my 95 Bronco. It cranks but doesn't start.
I replaced fuse # 6 and it worked fine for 2 days and stopped once again.
Changing fuse didn't help afterwards. Finally, I changed the 15amp fuse with
a 20 amp and it worked for like 5 minutes. Didn't hear the engine run after
that. I am a new member and won't be able to start a new thread till I have
30 posts. Please let me know how to solve this problem. Thank You
Electrical problems need tools other than screwdrivers wrenches, they
need a meter for one. That's so obvious it sounds smartassed huh? :)
Yet it goes ignored even after being spelled out (almost every time). :/

You got a friend that has a meter? :)

Another tool is wiring diagrams and other information in the Ford service
manuals. Not all that information is on the internet as far as I know, but
here's a little bit...

http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=993

http://broncozone.com/topic/21228-95-bronco-will-not-fire/
(check out how much stuff he replaced and got nowhere! LOL :)

http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/bronco_1995_21-1.gif

Alvin in AZ
 

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I don't think it is something major because the car worked fine for days after I changed the fuse. I noticed that the place where the fuse goes in is wider than normal and a little loose.
 

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AKA: Butthead
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I don't think it is something major because the car worked fine for days after I
changed the fuse. I noticed that the place where the fuse goes in is wider than
normal and a little loose.
That looseness could be from someone clipping a connection to the fuse and
buggering up the fuse holder or it could be from metal fatigue from it getting
hot and staying that way long enough to draw the spring temper from the
metal fuse holder. The latter was a -big- problem with old air cooled VWs! :/

So if it's from heat, then yeah something's not quite right somewhere.

Me? I'd test the circuit for resistance and/or current draw before going any
farther, but I'm weird tho. :/

You? ;) Clean the connection and squeeze the spring metal holders together
and see how wimpy they feel. If they bend in and stay-put without springing
back most of the way, the clip is bad and heat has screwed it up.

Alvin in AZ
ps- 1200F for just a second will draw all the spring temper from typical spring
steel or Bronze. 400F for example takes longer but the effect is accumulative.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
New ignition swtich, still no start

Today i finally had the time to drop the column and replace the ignition switch. I immediatly noticed the two 687 (A2) Accessory terminals were chared. I looked at the wiring harness connector and its partially melted. I installed the new ignition switch and got it aligned (accessories turn on in the ACC postion and in the Run position) The fuel pump primes and all of my dash lights turn on.

When i try to start it, I still get no crank. What is interesting is once i let the key return back to the run position, the radio has reset, like it lost complete power while the ignition was in the Start position.

After looking through my Chiltons manual, the diagram says theres a fusable link between the switch and the starter relay on the fender wall. Does anyone know where that is? I'm thinking if i had enough of a power surge to burn the old ignition switch and partially melt the connector, the fusable link may have opened.

I can still start the truck by jumping the starter relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Does anyone know what components are part of the Accessory 2 circuit?
 

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AKA: Butthead
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Does anyone know what components are part of the Accessory 2 circuit?
I don't know off hand. :/

http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/
http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/bronco_1989_28.gif
http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/bronco_1989_40.gif

I don't see anything in my '91 E&VTM with that name or numbered "2". :/
{and the fused links are lettered}

Fuses and their circuits are on page 13-1 and 13-2 in the '91 E&VTM.
{and they skip right over fuses numbered 2 and 3}
{maybe that's a change Ford made from '89 to '91?}

Alvin in AZ
ps- http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/Baja_chevy.wmv
+1 for Metallica's older sound
But -1 for any Baja 1000 where a motorcycle doesn't take first over all!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I pulled codes and got a code 67 during the KOEO. The manual says its a neutral pressure switch, but i have the C-6 Auto. I still cant get the truck to start via the key. I can start it by jumping the solenoid terminals. HELP!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I also checked for Voltage coming into and out of the relay. No voltage from battery to: ignition, start, or ignition bypass at any switch position. I have continuity at all the right places at all switch positions. Could it be the neutral saftey switch? My guess on that is no since i can start the truck at the starter soleneoid.
 

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Yes because you are bypassing everything at the starter solenoid, neutral safety switch should be on left side of trans at the shift shaft
 

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Could it be the neutral saftey switch?
My guess on that is no since i can start the truck at the starter solenoid.
My guess would tend toward -yes- because you -can- start it from the
starter relay or starter solenoid (either one).

This is just so we are using the same words for the same parts...

A Ford starter relay:


A starter with a starter solenoid on it:

That type does not require a starter relay because the heavy duty
contact is -inside- the starter, so no need for a relay.

Two Ford starters without any starter solenoids on them:

Those pretty much require a starter relay.

Alvin in AZ
 

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i always wondered WHY ford thought it was such a great idea to put the ignition switch at the BOTTOM of the column.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I noticed the Saftey switch electrical connector is coated in old oil. Is there a chance come oil got inside the connector? Or are we talking a potential mechanical failure in the switch?

Alvin- are you in the Scottsdale/Phoenix area? I could use a second set of eyes at some point. I've developed a wicked coolant leak that i havent been able to find either.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I also noticed today that the truck can be pushed both forward and back when it is in R/D/2/1. Shouldn't the transmission be engaged and the truck be hard to push? It moves like it's in neutral.
 
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