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A few weeks back while on vacation my wife called frantically because my horn was blowing and they couldn't make it stop. It stopped right before they got the battery unhooked.
90 fsb 302 no air bag, aftermarket cruise control that I don't think is wired thru the horn does work.
I replaced a blown fuse and the horn didn't start again. I checked the horns themselves 1 of 4 was good I replaced 1 incase it needed 2 to complete a circuit. I do get a very slight sound coming from somewhere under the hood upon release of the horn button on the wheel. I ordered a horn relay from Autozone, it did not match the one behind the glovebox that I thought was for the horn. I've also bought a new horn button that didnt do the trick either. I don't have much help at home to help with listening or checking electronics. I found a relay looking thing behind the driver's side headlight that is very rusted. The wires from the horn seem to plug in to this "relay" but I can't seem to figure out what it is.
I don't want to unplug and remove it till I have a replacement incase it messes with something else.
WHAT THE HELL IS THIS THING?
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This is the relay behind the glove box. I thought I had a picture of it unplugged.
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Did you check the wires at the horn speakers for voltage when you press the horn button?
I cheap voltmeter is like $10.

I hope it has nothing to do with your clockspring. $$.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm going to try to get my son to help me with the volt meter this weekend. No airbag = no clock spring
Right?
 

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I'm going to try to get my son to help me with the volt meter this weekend. No airbag = no clock spring
Right?
Your year will have sliding contacts so no clock spring. that crusty relay is not stock, somebody spliced it in. You said you have 4 horns, AFAIK Broncos never had 4, just 2. My guess from all this is that somebody added more horns, hacked the wiring and that is the cause of your problem.
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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It’s a standard relay hot in and hot out..... the hot is actuated internally by the switch used to make it close the circuit. It allows for small circuit to activate a larger circuit..... think of it like your starter relay what would be the size of wire going into the ignition if it was directly connected.
hope I “splained”that right.
 

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Yo Aaron,
Following from 1990 Bronco EVTM via Seattle FSB
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Here are the 1990 Bronco Pre-Delivery Shop & Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manuals (EVTM), Partial by member Kingfish999 in Google Drive @ 1990 Ford Truck service manuals - Google Drive
Find page # of item desired in contents, then flip screen down like spinning a thumbwheel, then stopping periodically to see what page you are on.
Suggest you download for faster scrolling and to use the table of contents index.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Ok... so everybody is clear, Aaron bought my old '90 FSB that I picked up and found had been built by another old member here... "MUD E1", who bailed out long ago.

Unless he's changed it... this was an aftermarket steering wheel with horns added. MUD E1 re-built that rig to play around in the sand dunes in Moses Lake, WA.


Sorry Aaron but I never had to mess with the steering wheel or the horn. It's entirely possible that's an aftermarket relay, added to make up for additional horns but I honestly can't say. Checking the diagram and bearing in mind extra horns and a new wheel were added by the owner before us should help.
I also remember the PO installed (spliced in) a power port, that's just dangling from wires below the dash. That might be a suspect but I'm not that good with wiring.

Wish I had more for you there man. Hope it's been taking good care of you besides.
 

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I feel like there would still be a clock spring even with aftermarket wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok... so everybody is clear, Aaron bought my old '90 FSB that I picked up and found had been built by another old member here... "MUD E1", who bailed out long ago.

Unless he's changed it... this was an aftermarket steering wheel with horns added. MUD E1 re-built that rig to play around in the sand dunes in Moses Lake, WA.


Sorry Aaron but I never had to mess with the steering wheel or the horn. It's entirely possible that's an aftermarket relay, added to make up for additional horns but I honestly can't say. Checking the diagram and bearing in mind extra horns and a new wheel were added by the owner before us should help.
I also remember the PO installed (spliced in) a power port, that's just dangling from wires below the dash. That might be a suspect but I'm not that good with wiring.

Wish I had more for you there man. Hope it's been taking good care of you besides.
Thanks Pepe`. Still the same truck. Been good for the most part but it wouldn't be an old Ford if it didn't need work. I'm definitely not a wiring and electrical guy either.
 

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If that relay behind the headlight is part of the horn wiring, and it very may well be, it probably fried with the continuous voltage of the horn staying on. Pick up another 5 pin relay from your local parts place or online (like this one - Amazon.com: Dorman 88069 Universal 5 Pin 30 Amp Relay, 12V: Automotive) and throw it in there. It may just fix your problem. Regardless if it is part of the horn wiring, it probably needs replaced anyway.
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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Too bad your not near me, I’d dink around with it for ya, I work for whiskey btw!!!
 
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