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Discussion Starter #1
This problem just came up today as I was on my way from Reno to San Diego. I got scared and came home after going to Carson City.

The truck (94 EB) won't shift into overdrive, it stays in third gear. When I lift off the accelerator the RPMs drop to around 1,000 and there is no engine braking. Press the accel again and it goes right into third gear.

If I turn the OD switch on the shifter to "off" while coasting the transmission immediately shifts to third.

I checked the fluid level in Carson and it seemed to be right where it should be.

I haven't gone anywhere to find out any codes, just got home.

Any ideas?
 

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yo,
OK, get it checked for Codes somewhere for free or DIY using this Self Test by Steve83

I run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse.
then; turn off all accesories/lights, etc.

Do KOEO portion first

For Key On Engine Running (KOER) portion, the engine has to be @ normal operating temp.

Post any codes found here or look em up in my broncolinks.com site.
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is that OD switch's LED blinking randomly or in a set pattern at any time?
Did it blink at all or stay Lit when you turned it "off"?

Did you run through deep water or thru mud?

Are your Brake Lights working?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did a couple laps around Reno just now and it is now shifting into OD. Haven't run the codes yet. It is currently "hard shifting" but that also comes and goes and has been doing so for the 30K miles I've had the truck. Vacuum line? Perhaps the trans. needs to be flushed and new filter? At no time has the OD "off" light ever blinked, it says off when I turn OD off and goes out when I turn OD on (regardless of if it's in OD). Weird, huh.
 

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kidshare:
Brother, respectfully I'm just curious as to why you would drive an OLDER, USED previously owned vehicle with a transmission experiencing "hard shifting" or OD issues for 30K miles or more, let alone an extended trip to Reno and not have it checked out or SERVICED before hand to avoid getting STUCK in the middle of bumsuck................?

Absolutely DO NOT "flush" it, you'll only make matters worse, filter and fluid change only. These transmissions are very expensive to rebuild, anywhere from a minimum $1,500 to 2,500 range ...and you're surprised now it's giving you trouble...OUCH....do yourself a favor and take care of it and it will take care of you.......:twak


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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perhaps your tranny filter came off. it happens! Like JKossaridess said do not flush the tranny. but you can drop the pan and check the filter and add more tranny fluid back in. Your tranny holds about 16 qts of fluid (torque converter included). by dropping the pan you only stand to lose about a quarter of that. There are impurities in the oil that your tranny has gotten used to utilizing in order to operate correctly. remove those and it will start slipping and not working correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Took another look at the dipstick, it's overfilled past the hash marks. The fluid looks to be in good shape, not bright red but not burned either. I noticed slipping today which I didn't notice before. Brake lights OK. No mud or deep water. However, the truck did sit for eight months with a bad fuel pump. Replaced it a couple weeks ago, drove the truck a couple hundred miles with no problems, it just started missing OD yesterday. OD came back with engine cold this morning but now gone again. Going out to do the self test right now.
 

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ok, in case I have to work (need $ for fun); look up Code(s) found in my site; use the internal Search for the Code Links...GL!..will try to come back Saturday. But I'm sure others here will help ya out.
and as HARDbeaten96 suggests, that filter/magnet could be a prob area...

The code check will help you from going nutz though on something relatively easy to fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Can't for the life of me find the self test input plug. I did find a plug (two wires, one in out capped with a little gray jumper) from the EEC which apparently is a test for the timing. But no single-wire leads anywhere to be found.
 

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yo,
This is by Steve83;
"...Diagnostic Link Connectors for EEC-IV processors ('84-95). '84-86 located on R wheelwell near starter relay. '87-95 located under L hood hinge. Connect FP Relay to any ground to force the fuel pump(s) on when the key is in RUN. Connect STO to SIGRET to trigger diagnostic modes.

MIESK5 NOTE; Self-Test Output (STO) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector
&
the PICs and info by Bob K
All you need is a paper clip to pull codes on an EEC-IV system. Just short the 2 locations as shown, turn the key forward and count the CEL flashes. EASY. Check your Haynes manual or go to Fordfuelinjection.com for an explanation of codes.

--

"...different angle just to make sure there is no mistake which ones to short. There are other ways to pull codes but this is by far the easiest..."
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK here's what I have. Error codes 172, 212, 542 and 628. The 172 has something to do with lean left; 212 SPOUT problem; 542 bad fuel pump (fixed) and 628 (slipping, but also read somewhere MLUS failure). Cleared codes, drove again, still won't go into OD (only when wearmed up, OD works fine when engine/trans are cold or cooler). After drive of 10 miles or so, only error 212 has showed up. Waiting for truck to go cold again and then take it out for 20 miles or so. BTW drove in fourth gear about halfway through desert from Lone Pine to about Kramer Jct, then stuck in third no OD to San Diego. Padres game was fun Saturday and Del Mar Fair fun on Sunday, now today back to trying to figure out what's wrong. Thanks for the help so far.
 

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yo,
ok.
DTC 212; "...IDM is a feedback signal generated by the ignition system and is monitored at pin #4 of the ECM. Its purpose is to diagnose missed ignition primary pulses at the time the ECM commands the Spout signal to fire the coil. Since it is used solely for diagnostic purposes, if this circuit is not operating properly, it will not affect vehicle driveability; & by Seattle FSB- The Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal is a diagnostic signal for the PCM to to verify a coil firing for each PIP signal. If an erratic or missing IDM signal is received, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC 212) is set. An occasional IDM signal may not affect drivability, but can still throw a trouble code. As SigEpBlue has stated, check for an intermittent ground on the spOUT and/or IDM circuit. Also, ensure that you have the correct Ignition Control Module (ICM) and it is wired correctly to the PCM..."
Source: by SMP via SigEpBlue (Steve) & by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at DTC 212; "...IDM is a feedback signal generated by the ignition system and is monitored at pin #4 of the ECM. Its purpose is to diagnose missed ignition primary pulses at the time the ECM commands the Spout signal to fire the coil. Since it is used solely for diagnostic purposes, if this circuit is not operating properly, it will not affect vehicle driveability; & by Seattle FSB- The Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal is a diagnostic signal for the PCM to to verify a coil firing for each PIP signal. If an erratic or missing IDM signal is received, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC 212) is set. An occasional IDM signal may not affect drivability, but can still throw a trouble code. As SigEpBlue has stated, check for an intermittent ground on the spOUT and/or IDM circuit. Also, ensure that you have the correct Ignition Control Module (ICM) and it is wired correctly to the PCM..."
Source: by SMP via SigEpBlue (Steve) & by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at DTC 212; "...IDM is a feedback signal generated by the ignition system and is monitored at pin #4 of the ECM. Its purpose is to diagnose missed ignition primary pulses at the time the ECM commands the Spout signal to fire the coil. Since it is used solely for diagnostic purposes, if this circuit is not operating properly, it will not affect vehicle driveability; & by Seattle FSB- The Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal is a diagnostic signal for the PCM to to verify a coil firing for each PIP signal. If an erratic or missing IDM signal is received, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC 212) is set. An occasional IDM signal may not affect drivability, but can still throw a trouble code. As SigEpBlue has stated, check for an intermittent ground on the spOUT and/or IDM circuit. Also, ensure that you have the correct Ignition Control Module (ICM) and it is wired correctly to the PCM..."
Source: by SMP via SigEpBlue (Steve) & by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127508
 

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yo, I have to get back to work now; so go to my broncolinks.com site and type in whatever code comes up next such 628
in the Search function.
you'll see other stuff that adresses the code and some that are not..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks, been to broncolinks.com. Lots of possibilities. MLPS? Solenoids? I dunno. Works when tranny is cold and doesn't work when tranny is hot. The error code 628 came back up after the longer drive. About half the drive the OD worked fine and engine braking occurred fine in OD. But second half of drive was uphill for about 5 miles, then downhill. OD still locked in engine brake style. Then uphill again and now stuck in third gear, no OD, and when lift off gas, no engine brake unless I turn OD off, then brakes OK in third.
 

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ok,
Go thru this thread; bec. GearHead has similar problems and same DTC 628; "...No studdering at all. Drove it 50+ miles today and it drove great. It may drive this way another 5 days and 500 miles. Or I may start it up tomorrow and it will shift hard the first time it changes gears..."


DTC 628; "...I did things in a stupid-simple way when the 628 came up: I tapped into the TCC line, and attached a voltmeter between that line and chassis ground. While driving, I could watch for it to go between zero volts (meaning the PCM was commanding the converter to lock) and battery voltage (meaning the converter should be unlocked). It sounds counterintuitive at first, but that's a matter of perspective, I suppose. Anyhow, if you see the PCM trying to lock the TCC and nothing happens to the engine speed, or if you can give it a little more throttle and the engine speed rises while it's commanded to lock, then you're assured a problem exists. If there was an electrical problem, then the PCM should also be giving you a code 627 as well. The 628 indicates excessive converter slippage. At a steady cruise, say your 60 mph, if you tap the brake the engine speed should rise slightly, and then come back down as the TCC re-engages. This condition can be intermittent, and it's more of a mechanical problem than an electrical one. The fix for a slipping TCC is to replace the torque converter and stator shaft seal, nothing more. You'd be out a little over a hundred bucks probably, and a few hours' labor, if you get one through a reputable transmission shop. I wouldn't buy anything but an OE-type replacement. You may even be able to get a Motorcraft/Ford replacement through a local dealership, but I've no clue how much their price would be..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at DTC 628; "...I did things in a stupid-simple way when the 628 came up: I tapped into the TCC line, and attached a voltmeter between that line and chassis ground. While driving, I could watch for it to go between zero volts (meaning the PCM was commanding the converter to lock) and battery voltage (meaning the converter should be unlocked). It sounds counterintuitive at first, but that's a matter of perspective, I suppose. Anyhow, if you see the PCM trying to lock the TCC and nothing happens to the engine speed, or if you can give it a little more throttle and the engine speed rises while it's commanded to lock, then you're assured a problem exists. If there was an electrical problem, then the PCM should also be giving you a code 627 as well. The 628 indicates excessive converter slippage. At a steady cruise, say your 60 mph, if you tap the brake the engine speed should rise slightly, and then come back down as the TCC re-engages. This condition can be intermittent, and it's more of a mechanical problem than an electrical one. The fix for a slipping TCC is to replace the torque converter and stator shaft seal, nothing more. You'd be out a little over a hundred bucks probably, and a few hours' labor, if you get one through a reputable transmission shop. I wouldn't buy anything but an OE-type replacement. You may even be able to get a Motorcraft/Ford replacement through a local dealership, but I've no clue how much their price would be..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB
Also read Stang's 2 Links he posted.

Next is;
E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) Flashing Diagnostic Trouble Codes 62, 628 and/or 1728 & transmission shifts hard by Ford for 90-96
in my site @ http://home.comcast.net/~miesk5/technical_service_bulletins.htm#technical_service_bulletins.htm

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Where did you see the MLPS info as related to 628?
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yo, update...
DTC 626, 628, 643, 652, P0741, P0743, P1754; "...Coast Clutch Solenoid (CCS) 7M107; The Coast Clutch Solenoid provides coast clutch control by shifting the coast clutch shift valve. The solenoid is activated by pressing the transmission control switch or by selecting the 1 or 2 range with the transmission gearshift selector lever. In manual 1 and 2, the coast clutch is controlled by the solenoid and also hydraulically as a fail-safe to ensure engine braking. In reverse, the coast clutch is controlled hydraulically and the solenoid is not on. NOTE: On certain applications, the coast clutch is controlled by the PCM in the overdrive position (TCS OFF) in gears 1, 2, and 3. Symptoms: Failed on Third gear engine braking with (D) range selected. Failed off No third gear engine braking in overdrive cancel..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net DTC 626, 628, 643, 652, P0741, P0743, P1754; "...Coast Clutch Solenoid (CCS) 7M107; The Coast Clutch Solenoid provides coast clutch control by shifting the coast clutch shift valve. The solenoid is activated by pressing the transmission control switch or by selecting the 1 or 2 range with the transmission gearshift selector lever. In manual 1 and 2, the coast clutch is controlled by the solenoid and also hydraulically as a fail-safe to ensure engine braking. In reverse, the coast clutch is controlled hydraulically and the solenoid is not on. NOTE: On certain applications, the coast clutch is controlled by the PCM in the overdrive position (TCS OFF) in gears 1, 2, and 3. Symptoms: Failed on - Third gear engine braking with (D) range selected. Failed off - No third gear engine braking in overdrive cancel..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/704885

Solenoid Tests;
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47918
See Steve & Ian's info there.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Not sure if this is a clue or not, but it's 605 miles to my parents house in San Diego (from Reno) and the odometer registered 675 miles both down and back. OD still not working but doesn't seem to affect mileage all that much, it's just annoying.
 

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