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Discussion Starter #1
ok i just did the water pump and timing cover. but i had the door open for a day and killed the battery and unplugged the batter the second day. we reattached the cable. but we jumped it with a jumper box. unfortunetly my brother put the jumper wires on backwards for a few seconds. I now have no spark. no spark goign tot he distributor. nothing comming out of the coil. so i figured the ignition module. bought one from autozone plugged it in still noting. both wires goign to the coil for power appear to be positive. with both the new and old ignition modules i can hear the fuel pumps on. so im pretty damn sure the ignition module is good. i was exspecting a fuse int eh fuse box. but all are good. and i also checked liek 6 fusible links i seen on the passanger fender. all good. am i missing something? is there a particular fuse somewhere where that could have went besides the ones i checked.

btw this is for a 89 FSB 351
 

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Discussion Starter #2
slight changed to this. after charging the battery i have spark but speratic. i get spark once i crack the engine then a few seconds later. playing with the electrical tester. i attached it to the tach wire(neg) and it turned dim like the haynes said it shouldnt. i then tests the ohms between (pin2 on the icm harnes and the same tach(neg) wire). got 5ohm which its supose to be. so no break there. i then turned the ign to run and tested for voltage on pins 2 and 3 on the harness. pin 3 has correct 12v. so the icm is getting power. pin2 had liek .02volts which its not suppose to. i ripped apart the harness between the coil and icm and all seemed fine. ICM is good. i had it tested to be sure. somebody must have run into this problem before. its really starting to irrate me. since i can barely work on this thing with work. luckly my older bronco is up and running. thanks to simplicy. lmao. basically i need to know of any fuses between the icm and eec. my brother cant be the only goof ball to put cables on wrong.

btw this truck had a ign switch problem to begin with but still started with the cross of the solenoid which was suppose to be my next project after getting it to idle. know id be happy if it started.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
another update. pin4 didnt have power neither does the starter selonied so ill assume the nuetral safety switch is shot. so i just jump 12v to that point and got power at the switch for selonoid and the ignition module. i now have th eproper voltages at the pins.

pin1=3
pin2=12
pin3=12
pin4=12

either way this thing should start. but nope. basically pin 2 goes to the coil and should trigger the coil. but its not. so i got curious and stuck a negative wire on the coil and bypassed the ignition module. i begin flikking the wire on a ground and sure enoug i get spark out of the coil. so basically pin 2 is suppose to be jumping/flashing when u crank the engine. when i did the test light trick it just get really dimm and you can see it faintly flashing. if you crank the engine you get no spark. but if you move the distributor around you get one spark while the fuel pump kick on. its not a harness issue. i ripped off most of the covering to look for shorts, but nope good as new.so i crank it and smake the tires a little to maybe get lucky. nope there.i think tested pip out for 3-8v AC on pin 6. i get 2v AC.making me think its the pip now.(pickup coil in the distributor) so i buy the pip. one problem i have to rip the distributor apart. eh no so i just order a new distributor for $40. waiting for that to come in tommarrow. what kinda worried me was after i took the distributor out. the gear was hard as a mofo to spin. and i looked at a reman 302 one they had in stock in autozone. it free spins. basically i have to use alot of pressure to spin the 351 old distributor. which is making me think more and more its the distributor. the only new part i have replaced so far is the ign module. coil is good. so im baffled now since eerything else is showing up good. computer is isnt spiitting out any codes pertaing to the ign system. all i get is. 67 being the nuetral safety switch. i noticed the plug that goes to the nuetral saftey switch theres a orong wire broken off. but i dunno where the other half of it is. either way im bypassing the nuetral saftey switch. till i get it running.

21 24 32 67

one of you electronic gurus must have a idea. i really need this thing to start up tommarrow.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Typically when you reverse battery connections, everything with a diode in it (the EEC computer, the TFI module, those power diodes in the fuse block, etc) gets fried. They particularly don't like excessive reverse voltage, and Ford didn't exactly spend big bucks putting higher-rated diodes in anything to protect against such SNAFU's.

I'd bite the bullet and replace those items I listed, but that's just me. I'm a little bit of an electronics hypochondriac; if I even suspect something may be bad, I'll replace it. To me there's no sense in messing with something that may not be 100% reliable.

BTW, are those last set of numbers supposed to be codes or what? If those are the on-demand codes, you'd better fix those first.
 

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This happened to my buddys Blazer, we had to replace:

Alternator
computer
ignition module.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
SigEpBlue said:
Typically when you reverse battery connections, everything with a diode in it (the EEC computer, the TFI module, those power diodes in the fuse block, etc) gets fried. They particularly don't like excessive reverse voltage, and Ford didn't exactly spend big bucks putting higher-rated diodes in anything to protect against such SNAFU's.

I'd bite the bullet and replace those items I listed, but that's just me. I'm a little bit of an electronics hypochondriac; if I even suspect something may be bad, I'll replace it. To me there's no sense in messing with something that may not be 100% reliable.

BTW, are those last set of numbers supposed to be codes or what? If those are the on-demand codes, you'd better fix those first.
first 2 codes are prob because its cold. 3 code was a emission code i think. 4 code is the nuetral safety switch. which i bypassed by sending power straight to pin 4 on the ignition module. i had the code before. and it would start up with the jump of the selonoid. my father does want to replace it. but first i want to make it runs before we start dumping more money into it. my father is already tring to buy tires for it and im liek i didnt even get it runnning yet. lmao
 

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Code 21 is ECT, 24 is ACT, both below self-test voltage. Could be bad sensors, but probably not. Code 32 is EVP interemittently below .24VDC. Probably bad sensor. However, the codes could be the sign of a fried PCM, but I wouldn't say that just yet.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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If he's got low voltage to all/most sensors, that'd pretty much guarantee a shot voltage regulator (inside the EEC, the one that controls +5Vdc). Remember what I said about reversing polarity across diodes? Yeah, similar thing applies to the voltage regulation circuits. I'm still insisting it's going to need a computer. And more.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i foudn the culptrit. when turning the distributor it would make "A" spark. so all the components where good. except for the NS switch. we got curious and where cranking the engine and the rotor wasnt spinning. ding ding light bulb. ah shit timing chain. took me all of 30mins to get back to the timing cover. amazing how easy it all comes apart the second time. the timing chain broke in half bottom gear lost liek 5 teech. so i went fishing with a magnet in the oil pain. i pulled out what appeared to be the camshaft holding plate. i took off the top pulley. sure enough the plate was broken. i didnt think of lookign at this when i put on the timing chain the first time. so we went to maching shop and picked up a cloyes timing chain this time as apposed to the dynagear from autozone. and order the locking plate for the cam shaft. looking on the cover it looks liek the camshaft was comming in out just enough to pop the chain. hopefully no damage was done to the heads before the chain popped. the machine shop said to just do the toilet paper trick get cylynider one lined up on the crankshaft pointing up. then just turn the crankshaft so it lines up. i have a busy day tommarrow. damn damn damn. doesnt explain the stiff ass distributor though. my brother scared the hell out of me when he sayed we might have a broken the camshaft in half.then i noted it wasnt a chevy. both the camshaft and crankshaft both spin. so nothing siezed. comment on that! lmao
 
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