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Discussion Starter #1
So i have a 95 eddie bauer, mostly stock 351. The alternator was going bad due to 2 15" subs in the back (dimming lights and battery gauge dropping very low when stereo was up high). Knowing this would be an issue I bought 1/0 wire and ran to alternator, ground, and from battery to fender relay with 200 amp fuse in between.
During the upgrade I dropped a wire, can't remember which, and it tapped one of the terminals on the top of the battery. Saw a small spark and heard what sounded like another spark/ pop sound from what seemed to be near the ignition coil. Put everything back together and the truck started right up. Drove around 20 minutes, brought it home, shut off and started up again with no problem. The next morning it took a few tries to get it started but it eventually turned over. The next weekend I tried to start it and have not been able to start at all. Battery was 11.8 at that point, charged it up to 12.9 and still no start.
Since then I did the 'just replace it' method with a few things. Replaced the ignition coil, fender solenoid/ relay, battery (the other one was fairly new), fuel pressure regulator, and ignition switch under steering column. In addition, I had someone turn the key so I can listen for the pump in the tank priming and did hear it.
The fuel filter was replaced last year so I don't suspect that being a problem and the engine has always run great. Starter was replaced about 4-5 years ago maybe a bit more.
I have a new starter on the way and the 170 amp alternator. most of the parts i get are from the graveyard so i trust that I'm using quality stuff. The new fender mount relay/solenoid is duralast from autozone.
Sorry for a long read, I'm just trying to be thorough.
I'm at a loss of what to test next.
Also should mention i tested the fusible links near the battery that tie on to the relay for continuity and it was good (probably should have tested for resistance) and i pulled a spark plug wire, tested with a new spark plug for spark against the top of the block, but probably did that wrong. Got no spark either way.
It turns over but just wont start
Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
yes, and unfortunately i had no luck. even pulled every fuse out to look at it, also tested for continuity on each. Installed new terminals on the battery and they were tight
 

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Discussion Starter #5
waiting on a new starter and alternator to come in, hopefully soon. If anyone knows anything else I can test in the meantime I'll give it a shot
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have no power at the ignition coil. I pulled the harness and pushed me tester leads into the pins while I tried to turn it over. I'm not sure if that's the right way to test it but I was expecting to get 24 volts across the harness.
 

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1986 Bronco, 351w, Edelbrock aluminum top end, Holley 600, 4" BDS lift, 35" Maxxis Razr's, stuff..
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you don't need to turn it over, just put the key in run and using a single wire light tester you should get a light on the one of the wires to the coil.

Which wire did you ground out causing the sparks?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i think it was the wire from the relay to starter solenoid that hit the negative on the battery terminal. I can't remember for sure but I was putting everything back onto the new relay and one wire slipped off and went straight for the negative terminal. I ordered a new starter and alternator hoping maybe a diode in the alternator went bad or that I popped something in the starter solenoid (the one attached to the starter). They should be in this week, I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks for the help, I'll take any advice I can get
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok, changed that alternator today, hoping maybe it would kick over. No luck. I have a new starter to put in but I don't think that's the problem. I don't hear the clicking sound that a dead starter would usually make. I'll change the starter tomorrow. After that I'm out of ideas
 

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Have you replaced the starter solenoid?
Did you upgrade the alternator charge wire? If so, did you put a mega fuse inline in the charger wire to replace the fuseable link on the stock wire?

With the key on, will it crank if you jump the 2 poles on the solenoid with a screwdriver?

Wierd as this may sound, I have had this happen when messing with the alarm module. Try disconnecting both battery leads then hold them touching each other for 10 seconds to completely reset the computer. When it happened to me, that's what solved it. I don't exactly remember if I touched the battery lugs together with both disconnected or if I just removed the hot lead and grounded it to the fender ground. If you somehow tripped the factory alarm then grounding out the battery positive will reset it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I upgraded the alternator wire to 1/0 which is visible (red wire) in the picture I posted. I noticed there is a spot for a ground screw on the back which I think I'll be adding a ground wire to soon. Anyway, it runs to a fuse block rated for 300 amp.

I've tried the screwdriver jump method on the solenoid to get it started. It tries to turn over, belt is running, starter is trying, but nothing else.

I changed the alternator yesterday and installed a new starter today. Neither of those got the truck started. Went to autozone and purchased an ignition control module, replaced it but the battery was dead from trying to get started all day. It was low (12.6) when I started working on it today anyway.

I'm going to charge the battery overnight and give it a try tomorrow after work.

* I did notice that the starter cable (still stock) was in bad shape at the starter location. Ill be replacing that soon as well
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok here is where I stand. New alternator, starter, cap and rotor, battery, battery terminals, starter solenoid, ignition coil, ignition control module, ignition switch. New wiring from battery to ground, from battery to alternator, from battery to engine ground.
I'm at a loss now.

The truck cranks, won't turn over. Did the spark plug test on top of the motor and I'm getting no spark to the plug when I try to start it.

I did notice the wiring at the alternator is frayed a bit and is oxidized a bit. The starter is getting power though. I hear it trying to start.

Now I'm not sure what to do. Also I did try holding the battery terminals together for 10 seconds to reset the computer. No luck
 

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I can't place my finger on it, but something looks wrong with the wiring set up in your picture. I do know that the power for the amp should come straight from the pos terminal and not the solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Difficult to see in the picture, but the amp is powered from the fuse block on the bottom, its a 4 gauge red wire that comes directly off the battery terminal. I have it disconnected in the meantime.

The fuse block on the top with the larger blue wires going into it is coming from the battery terminal and then heads out to the alternator with a 300 amp fuse in between (I asked for 200 they sent me 300)

Im also wondering if I crossed a wire somewhere, but I took off one side of the solenoid at a time, went wire for wire. Still I'm out of ideas how to get power to that coil
 

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Have you checked your EEC relay? If that shorts out, you'll have the same symptom. Find it in your relay box and feel if it clicks
 

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1986 Bronco, 351w, Edelbrock aluminum top end, Holley 600, 4" BDS lift, 35" Maxxis Razr's, stuff..
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If you are turning the key and the engine is turning over your solenoid is not the issue.

You said you weren’t getting spark at the plug. Do you have a tester that plugs in between the plug and the cable?

I would test for spark between the coil and distributed.

If you don’t have spark there, with the key in the run position check the positive side of the coil with a continuity tester and see if you have power there.

Another thing that might be bad is the ignition switch down at the bottom of the steering column but check for power to the coil pos first and report back.


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