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Discussion Starter #21
So I didnt have much time to spend today, but I put an inline spark tester from the coil to the distributor. Tried to crank it from the solenoid with a screwdriver, it was trying but no spark. The coil is one of the parts I replaced so I'm not suspecting that.

Is there any location with a resistor/fuse between the ignition switch and the coil? Can I take a wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the coil to get spark?

I tried my obd1 scanner a few days ago and got a pass on the test.

Miesk5, I have a lot of reading to do but will run through all the info you sent me tomorrow to see if I can get this thing going. Was working great 3 weeks ago before I started messing with it and saw that spark and heard a pop when I was installing the wires on the solenoid. If it's not broke don't fix it I guess should be my lesson.

Never giving up on my bronco
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Going to spend some time today going over the info from everyone and try some more troubleshooting. I'll let you know how it goes. Could the distributor be a problem? cap and rotor are new
 

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1986 Bronco, 351w, Edelbrock aluminum top end, Holley 600, 4" BDS lift, 35" Maxxis Razr's, stuff..
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Wait a minute;

First off, crank and turn over are using to describe the engine being rotated through the combustion cycle by the starter motor.

Firing is the engine actually getting spark and running.

It’s important to use the correct terminology so we can help you troubleshoot.

A) if you turn the key to the “start” position, does the engine turn over or not?

B) if you put the key in the “run” position do you have power at the positive side of the coil?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Got it.

So yes, the engine is turning over (hearing noise, belt is spinning, sound from starter [not click]) when I turn the key to the start position.

Putting the key in run position and testing the positive side of the coil is not something I've done yet. I'll be out working on the truck shortly and I will test that. what voltage should I expect to see when using my multimeter?
 

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1986 Bronco, 351w, Edelbrock aluminum top end, Holley 600, 4" BDS lift, 35" Maxxis Razr's, stuff..
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Just check and see if you have any power to it at all first. I'm not sure on the exact voltage, on my 86 in stock form it sends 12 during start and then a bit less during run. For now, lets just make sure its getting some power during run. It would be good to confirm it is getting power in "start" position as well. If it is getting power in both those positions but you aren't getting a spark between the coil and dizzy while cranking then it points to your coil being the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
ok here we go.

I followed the step by step testing procedures for the coil, the primary and secondary sides... tested out everything with my daughter turning the key inside to run and start as necessary.

As I was about to take a break for lack of success I pulled out the primary harness on the coil and tested it. I had 12.6 volts from right side to negative terminal on the battery. Pugged the harness back in and realized even though it has the clip to hold it in place I was able to push it in further. Figured i'd try to start it anyway and then victory! Engine started and ran great like it always did.

I shut it off twice and restarted to make sure it would run with success both times.

It ran for a good 10-15 minutes. As I was tightening up the battery terminals I heard what sounded like a quick air release, not very loud, as the engine shut off.

I feel like as I was testing the coil and spark plug wires with the spark tester, it was hit or miss...
When I was testing from the positive battery terminal to the #6 on the ignition control module I was getting a flashing light as expected, same as the right side of the harness that snaps into the ignition coil. The coil is 3 days old. Could it be bad?

Anyway, now it wont start again
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Also its probably a good idea to mention the only check engine light I've ever gotten was egr valve, it comes and goes but has been off for a while now
 

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I feel like as I was testing the coil and spark plug wires with the spark tester, it was hit or miss...


Anyway, now it wont start again
Can you unplug the Spout Connector and try to start it and see if that makes a difference?
 

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I'm not sure what the spout connector is or where it is located.
Unplug the small black "box" at the location shown in link below.

 

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Discussion Starter #33
ok I pulled the spout connector out, tried to start it 3 times, no luck. I ordered a better ignition coil in the meantime since I am getting voltage into the coil. I bought a 35 dollar duralast out of convenience but I've read on the forum that msd is the way to go so I ordered one.

Also removing my accell 8mm wires and ordered ford racing 9mm as suggested in another thread. Coming in Wednesday, fingers crossed
 

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Discussion Starter #34
New wires came in today, new msd distributor, still no spark. I think all I have left is the distributor pickup. Is this something an amateur should mess with or should I get it towed to my mechanic? I'd rather put in a new distributor all together but it seems like it may be beyond my qualifications.

Also, am I going in the right direction?
 

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New wires came in today, new msd distributor, still no spark. I think all I have left is the distributor pickup. Is this something an amateur should mess with or should I get it towed to my mechanic? I'd rather put in a new distributor all together but it seems like it may be beyond my qualifications.

Also, am I going in the right direction?
Before you condemn the distributor, try working on Step 7 in the link below. Everything you need to diagnose your condition is in the link below.

 

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Discussion Starter #37
Problem solved thanks to all your help. That ignition testing from miesk5 and nyfsb helped solve the problem.

Distributor pickup was most likely the culprit because since the distributor was changed it's been starting up every time. This was a job for a pro in my opinion, I'm an electrician not a mechanic.

Bought a new dist for $95 and my mechanic put it in for $95 plus tow was $85. I wanted to do Motorcraft but time was an issue since my inspection was up and NY is ruthless with tickets.

It still takes a few seconds to turn over, how can I get that process to speed up? Is that a different topic? I'll do a search.

Thanks again guys
 

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Yo ANDY,
GOOD!
Start a new thread on "It still takes a few seconds to turn over, how can I get that process to speed up?".
This will avoid possible confusion with this thread.
 
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