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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, So over summer I put a 6 inch pro comp lift and 35's on and everything was smooth until now. I have a very loud squeal coming from my front u-joint on the rear drive shaft, It almost sounds like a belt squeal. I sprayed some wd-40 on it and it is quiet for now but I just want to replace the whole drive shaft any way and want to get something that would be better for the angle from the lift. Just curious where a good place to start would be. Thanks in advance!
 

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Stock ds should okay w/ 6" lift.

Sounds like you just need ujoints/rebuild.

(WD40 won't help, its the bearings inside the caps.)

Does your uj's have grease fittings?
 

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Bronco Snob
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WD40 will just clean it all out and loosen it up so it squeeks really nice. Greasing it will only help for a few miles. Whether it's a ujoint, or most likely the centering ball in the cardan joint (often mistakenly called a CV joint) that is bad, there are many good write-ups on here to rebuild/replace it yourself, or pay to have it done. :thumbup
 

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yo Mitch;
This is by Ford for a 96;
"...The Bronco rear driveshaft is of the double Cardan type which incorporates two universal joints, a driveshaft centering socket yoke (4782), and a driveshaft center yoke (4784) at the transfer case end of each shaft. A single universal joint is used at the axle end of the driveshaft.

Rear Driveshaft and Coupling Shaft, Bronco



U-Joint Inspection
Prior to checking driveline angularity, inspect the universal joints for proper operation.
Place the vehicle on a frame hoist and rotate the driveshaft (4602) by hand. Check for rough operation or seized universal joints. If the universal joint shows signs of seizure, excessive wear or improper seating, scribe alignment marks on the driveshaft and rear axle companion flange. Remove the driveshaft and remove and replace the universal joint. Install the driveshaft in the marked original position..."
 

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yo, Also; in case they are Greaseable U-joints
Lubricate U-joint through grease fitting if installed, using Premium Long Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B. Refer to Section 00-03 for more information.


Greaseable U-joints are typically recommended only for vehicles which operate 100% of the time in a high grit environment (e.g., coal mines).NOTE: GREASEABLE U-JOINTS DO NOT CONTAIN END PLAY THRUST WASHERS AND MAY CAUSE NOISE/VIBRATION/HARSHNESS (NVH) CONCERNS ON CERTAIN APPLICATIONS.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well the wd40 was able to stop the noise but I understand its not that simple, there are no grease zerks on my uj's but I might try to rebuild it myself ill have to check some of those threads out thanks Rico. @Miesk5 I did have it in the air the other day and it spun smoothly and it is tight, the only issue is that it was making the noise. I did just replace the front u joints because of excessive play. Part of me just wants to replace the whole drive shaft anyway even if its not necessary, can someone show me a good place to look if I went that route? Thanks again! :beer
 

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JBG has them for $239.00 plus the ride. Rock auto has them a little cheaper, but they are rebuilds from A1 Cardone. If time is money for you, that may be the way to go. If you have more time than money, you can rebuild it yourself for roughly 110 using good joints, 80 using cheaper joints.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
JBG has them for $239.00 plus the ride. Rock auto has them a little cheaper, but they are rebuilds from A1 Cardone. If time is money for you, that may be the way to go. If you have more time than money, you can rebuild it yourself for roughly 110 using good joints, 80 using cheaper joints.
right on thanks
 

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JBG has them for $239.00 plus the ride.
just an fyi,the jbg shaft i bought had garbage u-joints on both ends,but i went ahead and ran it anyway for 4-5 years (99% street mind you).the cv head exploded on me a 3 months ago as i was shifting into 3rd.luckily i still had my old stock cv head and got it rebuilt with SPICER life series joints,and it's been doing great since.so unless they have changed,decent drive shaft,crappy greasable u-joints.:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I actually just checked with a local drive shaft company and they told me they could re build the drive shaft with heavy duty u joints for 250 and they could extend it a little bit to compensate for the lift if need be and they will only charge an extra 50 for that so I will probably just go with that and they are a god company with great reviews, thanks for the help!
 
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