Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am sure this must be obvious or been covered but I cant find the thread.

Why convert push button locking hubs with manual?

NJB
 

·
Lick my balls
Joined
·
13,029 Posts
Because manual is by far more reliable, period.
 

·
I killed Kenny...again
Joined
·
3,258 Posts
because the autos suck, period. they have a bad tendency to go bad when you need them, and engage when you dont need them. manuals are way more reliable, and possibly easier to install. did i mention manuals are cheaper?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
912 Posts
Because you just never know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
If I understand the way they work correctly, I can get the best of both worlds with warn premiums? They have a "free" position that lets you use the auto when your not going hardcore offroad.

Bear in mind that I am not building a monster offroader, just my personal use truck that I want to be able to handle moderate off roading.

NJB
 

·
USAF C-17 Maintenance
'94, '92, '88, and '84 Broncos
Joined
·
6,970 Posts
njbuck said:
If I understand the way they work correctly, I can get the best of both worlds with warn premiums? They have a "free" position that lets you use the auto when your not going hardcore offroad.

Bear in mind that I am not building a monster offroader, just my personal use truck that I want to be able to handle moderate off roading.

NJB
No the warn premiums are simply tougher versions of the regular warns normal lock and free. Your thinking of the ford superdutys design of goofy hubs that have a lock and auto position. (also failure prone and common swap to standard locking hubs)

Adrianspeeder
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I actually read about it here...

Warn manual/Automatic hub
Years ago, in a Warn catlog, I sow a Warn Manual hub that had 3 settings.
Free, Auto, and; Lock

Has anyone else ever seen these hubs?
I assume they were crappy and discontinued if noone here heard of them...

So I take it that there is no question, manual is always better...

Thanks for the info...
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
19,707 Posts
njbuck said:
...push button locking hubs...
No such thing. The buttons on the dash control the transfer case. It connects the front driveshaft to the rear.

The hub locks are entirely different. They connect the front wheels to the front axle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I see.... thats a significant difference that I should have realized...

So its not the mechanism in the transfer case thats unreliable but the hubs themselves fail to automatically lock for some reason.

Thanks for clearing that up, I assumed that both mechanisms (hubs and TC) were engaged electrically.

Sorry for the noob question, but I am a simple software designer that happens to know how to do brakes and basic tune up stuff :p

I have alot to learn, but I am enjoying it greatly.. Thanks again!

NJB
 

·
The Anti Yam!
Joined
·
22,680 Posts
njbuck said:
I actually read about it here..
Hey, thats me you quoted.

I did see those hubs years ago, but only in that catalog.

Another detriment to auto hubs that no one ever mentions is that they unlock every time you change direction.

Yes even with the t-case in 4x4 they unlock then relock after a few spins of the drive shaft. Realy sucks if you have to change direction on a slipery surface.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
wow I can really see that causing undue wear if your fighting to get over/ahead and your rocking back and forth....

I am convinced.. I will grab some warns if I ever get it back from the mechanic.. They took 2 months to put tires and an (out of the box) rebuilt engine in...

I need a new mechanic or more time.. or maybe he works faster if I dont rent a car from him... :banghead

NJB
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,689 Posts
Gacknar said:
Another detriment to auto hubs that no one ever mentions is that they unlock every time you change direction.

Yes even with the t-case in 4x4 they unlock then relock after a few spins of the drive shaft. Realy sucks if you have to change direction on a slipery surface.
Which is a good way to blow them up, trust me. Spin up the front axle in reverse (back wheels on ice) when your hubs are locked in forward, and they'll unlock, then lock in reverse, then break because your axle is moving a *lot* faster than the wheel. Lucky I didn't break a u-joint or an axle, just a hub.

That said, as I said in the other thread, if you're pulling working auto hubs off to replace them with manual, and are just going to toss them, I'll pay shipping for them. I prefer auto on my DD, and a few sets of spares won't hurt anything.
 

·
Wrenching for a Livin'
Joined
·
6,950 Posts
this may be a stupid question, but will the lock/auto selectable hubs from the newer superdutys work in our broncos? I know they aren't that reliable, but i really like the idea of not having to get out and lock in the hubs for those icey snow days. I would still carry a spare set of manual lockouts
 

·
Zombie Hunter
Joined
·
13,695 Posts
magnumpi said:
this may be a stupid question, but will the lock/auto selectable hubs from the newer superdutys work in our broncos? I know they aren't that reliable, but i really like the idea of not having to get out and lock in the hubs for those icey snow days. I would still carry a spare set of manual lockouts
Do what i do. If it's snowy and icey, just before i get in the truck i lock the hubs, but don't engage the T-case. That way if i get into a position that i need the front axle, all i have to do is push the button.

It's not bad to run your front axle occasionally, and as long as your not locked on dry pavement for long distances, you should be allright. It doesn't do much for your gas mileage, but it saves you from having to stop the truck, get out and lock the hubs.
 

·
Lick my balls
Joined
·
13,029 Posts
njbuck said:
wow I can really see that causing undue wear if your fighting to get over/ahead and your rocking back and forth....

I am convinced.. I will grab some warns if I ever get it back from the mechanic.. They took 2 months to put tires and an (out of the box) rebuilt engine in...
I need a new mechanic or more time.. or maybe he works faster if I dont rent a car from him... :banghead

NJB
Wow, 2 months! What did they charge you, if you don't mind me asking? I can do a re and re in 2-3 days.
 

·
Lick my balls
Joined
·
13,029 Posts
Jeepcrusher said:
Steve83,

Steve in your hub write up you said "Pack bearings, then fill void between bearings with Castrol Pyroplex Blue grease" I was always told never to pack grease in the hub only to pack the bearings and put grease around the spindle and to never fill thhub up with grease.
This conflicts with what I have always known and I am only wanting to find out the best way to do this.

Thanks
The void between the bearings is'nt where your hubs are.
 

·
Lick my balls
Joined
·
13,029 Posts
Well yeah, if you want to get technical that whole thing is your hub, but between the bearings is not where the hubs are locked in and you don't pack your locking mechanism with grease, I guess I'll leave questions directed at you alone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
got it!

Thanks
 

·
The Anti Yam!
Joined
·
22,680 Posts
Bronco Rob said:
Do what i do. If it's snowy and icey, just before i get in the truck i lock the hubs, but don't engage the T-case. That way if i get into a position that i need the front axle, all i have to do is push the button.
Same here.
People use to say to me "so you have to get out in the mud to lock the hubs" and I would say "no, I locked the hubs at the house" I'v drove almost 3,000 miles with my hubs locked before. (I forgot I locked them) Drove to and from work for a month with them locked. Whent to lock them one day and I was like "Damn, I left them locked"
:toothless
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top