No the warn premiums are simply tougher versions of the regular warns normal lock and free. Your thinking of the ford superdutys design of goofy hubs that have a lock and auto position. (also failure prone and common swap to standard locking hubs)njbuck said:If I understand the way they work correctly, I can get the best of both worlds with warn premiums? They have a "free" position that lets you use the auto when your not going hardcore offroad.
Bear in mind that I am not building a monster offroader, just my personal use truck that I want to be able to handle moderate off roading.
I assume they were crappy and discontinued if noone here heard of them...Warn manual/Automatic hub
Years ago, in a Warn catlog, I sow a Warn Manual hub that had 3 settings.
Free, Auto, and; Lock
Has anyone else ever seen these hubs?
No such thing. The buttons on the dash control the transfer case. It connects the front driveshaft to the rear.njbuck said:...push button locking hubs...
Hey, thats me you quoted.njbuck said:I actually read about it here..
Which is a good way to blow them up, trust me. Spin up the front axle in reverse (back wheels on ice) when your hubs are locked in forward, and they'll unlock, then lock in reverse, then break because your axle is moving a *lot* faster than the wheel. Lucky I didn't break a u-joint or an axle, just a hub.Gacknar said:Another detriment to auto hubs that no one ever mentions is that they unlock every time you change direction.
Yes even with the t-case in 4x4 they unlock then relock after a few spins of the drive shaft. Realy sucks if you have to change direction on a slipery surface.
Do what i do. If it's snowy and icey, just before i get in the truck i lock the hubs, but don't engage the T-case. That way if i get into a position that i need the front axle, all i have to do is push the button.magnumpi said:this may be a stupid question, but will the lock/auto selectable hubs from the newer superdutys work in our broncos? I know they aren't that reliable, but i really like the idea of not having to get out and lock in the hubs for those icey snow days. I would still carry a spare set of manual lockouts
Wow, 2 months! What did they charge you, if you don't mind me asking? I can do a re and re in 2-3 days.njbuck said:wow I can really see that causing undue wear if your fighting to get over/ahead and your rocking back and forth....
I am convinced.. I will grab some warns if I ever get it back from the mechanic.. They took 2 months to put tires and an (out of the box) rebuilt engine in...
I need a new mechanic or more time.. or maybe he works faster if I dont rent a car from him... :banghead
The void between the bearings is'nt where your hubs are.Jeepcrusher said:Steve83,
Steve in your hub write up you said "Pack bearings, then fill void between bearings with Castrol Pyroplex Blue grease" I was always told never to pack grease in the hub only to pack the bearings and put grease around the spindle and to never fill thhub up with grease.
This conflicts with what I have always known and I am only wanting to find out the best way to do this.
Same here.Bronco Rob said:Do what i do. If it's snowy and icey, just before i get in the truck i lock the hubs, but don't engage the T-case. That way if i get into a position that i need the front axle, all i have to do is push the button.