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Discussion Starter #1
1990 Fullsize Bronco 302 w/AOD

Bronco does not want to start after being driven for awhile.

Symptoms: Acts like I don't have enough battery to spin the starter until the engine/trans cools down for about 30 minutes then all works fine.

Also, slow to start on cold mornings. Engine won't turn over freely the first turn of the key, gets better the second try and then starts the third time...like nothing was wrong!

Battery and cables are nearly new...all connections good, alternator working fine. Tested batt for charge, all is good.

Starter is about a year old...and works fine when engine and trans are at a certain temp.

AOD was rebuilt not too long ago and I am wondering if the clearances are correct. Didn't have this problem before.

Originally I thought maybe the starter was suffering from "heat soak" (and it might be) but I also have problems starting the vehicle when its very cold outside.

Ideas or suggestions?
 

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Originally I thought maybe the starter was suffering from "heat soak" (and it might be) but I also have problems starting the vehicle when its very cold outside.

Ideas or suggestions?
Sounds like that to me.. That will cause your starter to wear much faster, which may account for the cold start issue as well.
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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so you have a slow crank with hot starts, and very cold starts in the morning. is this what i gather?

was the starter a cheapo-depot vatozone rebuilt lifetime warranty starter?
 

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A broke kid with a bronco
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If you answered yes to the question above then you should get a new one from Ryan (rjm injection tech) I got my 3G there. No complaints. I even got a free pen lol.
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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y u no order one from rjm tech? (fireguy50)
 

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If you answered yes to the question above then you should get a new one from Ryan (rjm injection tech) I got my 3G there. No complaints. I even got a free pen lol.
ummm.... the 3g is an alternator not a starter
 

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flint knapper:
A. pull codes from the vehicle computer for initial diagnosis, requires either an OBD -I or II Ford Code Reader which costs $29.99 anywhere.
B. Check/Test your ECT = engine cooling temp sensor, important at "cold start" and normal operation **
C. Check/test the ignition module either TFI = thick film integrated, notorious for heat sink failure or the remote located module but several times for passing grade FREE at any auto parts store or replace.
D. Check/Test your FPR = fuel pressure regulator, 37 psi engine off cranking, 40 psi engine running vaccum line disconnected.
E. Check the TV cable adjustment on top, You Tube = TV cable adjustment.
F. For the AOD transmission check that the column shift linkage adjustment is in sync with the transmission, Haynes Manual transmission section Ref/Illus. "Point A" has it all regarding linkage BOLT and transmision TAB where in many cases code 67 AC circut failure/NSS it's the adjustment not the NSS itself if you have to lift/jiggle the shifter to start.
G. Voltage drop test the starter motor.
H. Check/Test the fender mounted "starter relay" right side for voltage issues along with that cable going down to the starter motor, no voltage, no start.
I. Get in the habit of using the Haynes Manual or the FSB "search tool" FIRST and become more self reliant trying to solve problems by yourself, it's how we all learn.

After you have performed all this let us know what you find out OK........lol lol

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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flint knapper:
A. pull codes from the vehicle computer for initial diagnosis, requires either an OBD -I or II Fords Code Reader which costs $29.99 anywhere.
B. Check/Test your ECT = engine cooling temp sensor, important at "cold start" and normal operation **
C. Check/test the ignition module either TFI = thick film integrated, notorious for heat sink failure or the remote located module but several times for passing grade FREE at any auto parts store or replace.
D. Check/Test your FPR = fuel pressure regulator, 37 psi engine off cranking, 40 psi engine running vaccum line disconnected.
E. Check the TV cable adjustment on top, You Tube = TV cable adjustment.
F. For the AOD transmission check that the column shift linkage adjustment is in sync with the transmission, Haynes Manual transmission section Ref/Illus. "Point A" has it all regarding linkage BOLT and transmision TAB where in many cases code 67 AC circut failure/NSS it's the adjustment not the NSS itself if you have to lift/jiggle the shifter to start.
G. Voltage drop test the starter motor.
H. Check/Test the fender mounted "starter relay" right side for voltage issues along with that cable going down to the starter motor, no voltage, no start.
I. Get in the habit of using the Haynes Manual or the FSB "search tool" FIRST and become more self reliant trying to solve problems by yourself, it's how we all learn.

After you have performed all this let us know what you find out OK........lol lol

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
Point F is a good one - an easy test for this is to simply hold the shift selector "upwards" while turning the key - if it starts better, then this is your problem - 20 seconds to check!;)
 

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Where are you located? I am betting on the starter first and ignition switch second not the key part the little rectangle guy towards the bottom of the column. The dielectric grease gets old causing crap connections mine did something very similar to what your describing and the new switch cured it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update:

New starter solved problem, old one definitely weak and heat soaking.

Should have known better than to use a VatoZone starter. It might have a lifetime warranty...but not worth it to have to use it!

Just got a GOOD starter this time.
 

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A broke kid with a bronco
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ummm.... the 3g is an alternator not a starter
I know that. I was saying that a New alt from Ryan should be equivilant to how well he does for a starter. Aka same great quality.
 

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Be sure to take the old one back to Auto Zone for your full refund , remember its a lifetime warrenty !!!
 

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Also, while your under the hood and replacing things, give your cables a really good looking at. I had the same problem with my 92 some time back and the starter tested fine, I replaced the starter solenoid and it ran OK for a few weeks, then started again. Turned out to be the Ground cable. I did a quick fix by getting a 4g replacement from the parts store and not only did the starter stop bogging down, it cranked like new. I stripped the cable and there was green corrosion nearly the entire length of the cable from the terminal down past the first ground point on the frame and about half way to the starter.

As soon as time/money converge at the same point I will be doing a large gauge upgrade throughout the Bronco from RJM and eventually doing a 3G swap also. You may not even see the corrosion on the outside initially. Are the cables factory or have they been cut/spliced some time in the past?
 

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Update:

New starter solved problem, old one definitely weak and heat soaking.

Should have known better than to use a VatoZone starter. It might have a lifetime warranty...but not worth it to have to use it!

Just got a GOOD starter this time.
Over here O reilly's and Vatozone sell nearly the same identical starter for nearly the same price. :shrug Maybe they both are trash.
 

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Be sure to take the old one back to Auto Zone for your full refund , remember its a lifetime warrenty !!!
I don't think you get any refunds only exchanges.
 

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I had this same problem...drive the truck and when warm cranked over too slowly...I actually found that my tstat was bad and not opening and my temp sender was bad telling my engine was running very cool. In reality it was overheating every time I drove it, causing it to crank slowly
 

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