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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wanted to place this here because it relates to ANY Ford V8 engine except Mod motors that uses a factory serpentine belt driven smog pump. Not year specific.
First off a disclaimer: Do this modification at your own risk and consequences. I am just illustrating something that could be done. What you do with the information is your business.

The source of this information is not mine and was given to me by a gentleman over on 460ford.com.
The installed pics are his but the actual bracket pics are mine. I will furnish a link to where you can get your brackets at the end of this post. No I will not measure the brackets so you can duplicate them, that would be a wrong to the guy that designed them.

DO NOT MESSAGE THE SUPPLIER OF THE BRACKETS WITH OBA QUESTIONS! He designed the brackets to mount a Sanden compressor for AC use on a different type of vehicle. NOT OBA Related. I would hate to lose a source for these brackets. Post your questions in this thread they will get answered.

No I don't make a dime on the brackets and have no financial interest in this. I only want to make it easier for guys that want an OBA system.

Ok first off this uses a Sanden 4711 or 4712 compressor. I would recommend the actual Sanden compressors as the Sanden "style" knock offs are questionable quality
Both compressors are the same it depends on which type of head port you want. They have a displacement of 9.5 Cubic Inches per rev. That works out to be 5.5 CFM at 1000 RPM 8.2 CFM at 1500 RPM.
4711 has the ports out the top.


4712 has the ports out the rear. This is probably going to be the one that the plumbing works out the best


Ok now that we have the compressor let's convert it from AC to Air compressor.
First off make sure you use either the Lucas Red and Tacky or the green less smelly Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty grease.
Follow these instructions and you should have no problems. Remember to remove the vent tube and plug the hole with a set screw.

You can add a grease fitting by tapping the the fill plug on the crankcase. Use an NPT threaded grease fitting not the press in kind. The press in type will push itself out with grease pressure.

You can choose to either tap the ports with 3/8 NPT tap or use premade hard tube that can be bent.
The first couple of feet coming from the compressor must be heat resistance. Connecting rubber hose to a hose barb on compressor is not going to last.
I think the hard tubes allow a much neater install and are not that expensive. What and how you plumb the end is your decision.
The Suction or Air Inlet port is a -10 size and the discharge port is a -8 size.

You must run some type of air filter on the Suction port. Any of these will work. Depends on how you want to plumb and mount it.

You will need a 150 PSI pressure switch as you never want to go over 200 PSI on the compressor. You also need all the normal other OBA items such as tank, air/water separator, check valve.


Now for the meat and taters of this post!! The brackets that make this all possible.

168042


168043


168044


Since I just received my brackets and haven't installed the compressor yet, I will share the pics I got from the guy on 460ford of his install on a 460.
The two brackets mount on each pair compressor mounting ears. The offset hole at the top of the bracket is for the pivot bolt to pass thru. I must apologize as I don't have a picture of the pivot pin area. I think some solid spacers may need to be made to align the belt properly front to back. Maybe as this thread develops someone will share pics of their install. Consider it an open source community project LOL.
The bolt you see to the right of the compressor is used to mount the tension adjustment link.
168045


The tension adjustment link. The bolt holes in the compressor ears are 10 mm so good 3/8 bolts can be used to mount the brackets to the compressor and for the long tension link mounting bolt.
168049


Here you can just see the head of the compressor pivot bolt above the compressor and to the left side.
168053


The source of these brackets is from a private seller on a BWM forum. Now you know why not to ask seller OBA questions. Ask them here. Unfortunately you will have to join the forum to message him. Sometimes this may take a day or two to get approved.


Right now I am tired and my brain is tired so going to take a break. Go ahead and post up your thoughts and questions on this. I will be back later. I am really curious how many would consider do this.
 

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I like the thread. I don’t know if I’ll ever have a need for OBA but I do have a 460 I’ll eventually install and I was just wondering what to do with the smog pump. Have an idea now!
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0 M/T, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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I probably would have gone that route if a kit existed at the time for using the smog pump location. I just never could figure out a way I liked for squeezing the York in there. I didn't consider the Sanden until after settling on a spot for the York.

When you get yours installed, I'd be interested in seeing better pictures of how and where the brackets mount to the block. I'm having a hard time seeing them clearly enough to be confident in how stable that will be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have a pump here and a 460 with factory brackets still on it minus the smog pump. I will see if I can get it mocked up for better look.
 

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Any body that uses a M&P for a reference of scale is cool with me.
Cool find on the OBA potential of these brackets
 

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I really like this thread, I’ll fallow along. I have been wanting to do a York OBA setup for quite some time... nearly 30 years... never heard of using the Sanden pump for OBA. So before I start digging through the internet, maybe you could save me a bit of time... does the Sanden pump work virtually the same way as the York? I mean still need some kind of oiling system, same plumbing, etc. Also do the Sanden pumps work both ways? Meaning are they both CW and CCW rotation, or do we need one to spin the same direction as the smog pump did?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No the Sanden compressor doesn't work the same as a York. York is typical crank rod piston configuration. Sanden uses a swash plate to move the pistons. Sanden is lighter, more compact, quieter. The York 210 is 10 cubic inch displacement and Sanden has 9.5 cubic inches. If you had took the time to read the link I posted you would have known no oiler or oil is needed as the crankcase is packed with some of the best high temp grease available.

Sanden compressors are rotation dependent. Most common is CW rotation same as the other accessories. You aren't going to find one in a salvage yard unless Sanden was OEM for it. Use either of the numbers I posted and you get the largest displacement, correct package size for the application. Anything other than those part numbers you are on your on. One hint to help you on your merry way is the Model number. It's the same for both compressors.
SD7H15
Any other model numbers might fit but come at very reduced performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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No the Sanden compressor doesn't work the same as a York. York is typical crank rod piston configuration. Sanden uses a swash plate to move the pistons. Sanden is lighter, more compact, quieter. The York 210 is 10 cubic inch displacement and Sanden has 9.5 cubic inches. If you had took the time to read the link I posted you would have known no oiler or oil is needed as the crankcase is packed with some of the best high temp grease available.

Sanden compressors are rotation dependent. Most common is CW rotation same as the other accessories. You aren't going to find one in a salvage yard unless Sanden was OEM for it. Use either of the numbers I posted and you get the largest displacement, correct package size for the application. Anything other than those part numbers you are on your on. One hint to help you on your merry way is the Model number. It's the same for both compressors.
SD7H15
Any other model numbers might fit but come at very reduced performance.
Sorry I didn’t take the time to fallow your link, but thank you for your explanation any ways. I will definitely be looking more into this over the next few weeks... I was going to do a VIAIR 12v Electric Compressor, but this might work better as I need to purchase a smog pump delete pilot any ways before getting my Bronco running again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok going to throw some more information to everyone.
This link describes the SD7 line of compressors. On page 5 there is a nice cutaway view of the inside. Where you see the two angles green plates that is the crankcase area you want to fill with red and tacky grease.

SD7 Catalog Sorry this one isn't that great but has some great sections. It is Sanden Singapore version which is older and not Sanden USA. You can use the numbers listed in the catalog and Sanden will show you the USA replacement. Didn't check the clutch part numbers. Wished the drawings of the different heads were better.

Now I have found a great source for compressors and compressor parts. It may not be as cheap as other part sources, but you can be assured you are buying authentic U.S. made Sanden parts.

I might not be describing this as well as I should be, but I didn't want to do a step by step. There are plenty of information sources already on the internet. I just wanted to show that there is an alternative to the bulky and heavy York compressor that performs just as well. Besides a couple of squirts of grease every engine oil change no service required. It doesn't have the oil issues the York has meaning clear air for you.

Vivair compressors while they are good just can't hang with Sanden or York. It just doesn't deliver as much air. You can't run your shop off of the Vivair, but you could with the York or Sanden and a good size tank.

With a good 2-3 gallon tank you should be able to air up all 4 35-37 inch tires in the same amount of time the Vivair would need to fill one. Plan your plumbing right you can fill all 4 tires at the same time.

There is not any dc powered compressor that comes close to the performance and price point of York and Sanden. That 8 CFM spec is at 100 PSI. That is huge!

Here is a link to some of the best DC powered compressors. It is also where I got the idea to use a Sanden instead of try mount a York. I will use the Yorks I have as tire chocks.
Check out the belt driven compressors too. That price is just the modified Sanden and no mount. You can do it for half the price including the mount.
They do offer a good selection of miscellaneous items you will need for a complete OBA system.
Products | Extreme Outback
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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@wileec is running a sanden type compressor in that spot. May have some pointers...

I'm v-belt and use a York for OBA.

I did scrounge a smog pump bracket from a carbed 300 that someone had modified for York OBA too. Even made it adjustable for tension with a bolt and nut
 

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So far the only downside I have is that the zerk fitting to grease the Sandon is kind of hidden under the alternator. But I do not have to get there very often. I just modified the SP bracket and then had to adjust the EGR pipe that runs up from the manifold on my 351.
I have not actually tried the smog test this way but I have a spare pump and bracket and it only takes about 30 minutes to swap.
 

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Glad/not glad I found this thread. My intention when I get around to it, was to install an OBA system in the smog pump location. So, great help with what appears to be great links full of information.

Thanks again. If you have any updates I would be very interested in them. I plan for this to be one of my very last mods. So, time will tell.

thanks
tim
 

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92 Bronco, 408 Stroker, 6R80, 4" lift, 9 inch, ARB lockers, 4.56 gears, Bassani exhaust
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I'm trying to do this as well. Does anyone have pics for the 351? Here is what I was goofing with today. It looks like it will need to hang off the air pump mount then be secured with the turnbuckle like Hillbilly shows. I'm a bit confused as to why there is two mounting points on the bracket the BMW guy made. Does the pump need more than 2 mounting points? If I replace my zip ties with 2 plates wouldn't that work?

PXL_20201217_201032340.jpg PXL_20201217_201038586.jpg PXL_20201217_201049430.jpg PXL_20201217_201201794.jpg
 

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That is a lot easier than on the truck...you cheat. Also no grease. I thought when I did it that the pully lined up measurement wise with the Sandon on the back side of the bracket ears. I used a cut bracket for my 3rd leg but your turn buckle looks like it would be fine.
 

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92 Bronco, 408 Stroker, 6R80, 4" lift, 9 inch, ARB lockers, 4.56 gears, Bassani exhaust
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That is a lot easier than on the truck...you cheat. Also no grease. I thought when I did it that the pully lined up measurement wise with the Sandon on the back side of the bracket ears. I used a cut bracket for my 3rd leg but your turn buckle looks like it would be fine.
Yeah I figured it would be easier this way. I realize I need to add a zerk. Mine seems to line up when it's directly under the mounting ears, give or take a washer. Thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes the upper hole of the bracket is the pivot hole with a thru bolt, and the two lower holes of the bracket bolt to the upper ears of the compressor. It stiffens up the whole system since there are two brackets. One for the front and one for the rear compressor ears. The link is mounted to the lower compressor ears with a thru bolt.
 

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92 Bronco, 408 Stroker, 6R80, 4" lift, 9 inch, ARB lockers, 4.56 gears, Bassani exhaust
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Yes the upper hole of the bracket is the pivot hole with a thru bolt, and the two lower holes of the bracket bolt to the upper ears of the compressor. It stiffens up the whole system since there are two brackets. One for the front and one for the rear compressor ears. The link is mounted to the lower compressor ears with a thru bolt.
Seems like you post about everything I'm interested in. Thanks for the info. How's the health?
 
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