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Chillin on the Gulf Coast
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Discussion Starter #41
This weekend I replaced the PIP and the TFI. Still a crank no start. Then I rented a noid light and checked for injector pulse. It was weak and erratic. I tried playing with the timing and a couple other things with no success. Then I went out and got a code reader (OBDII). Downloaded and did a realtime read and got no codes at all. Then while messing around with the noid light again (and my ignition switch since I couldn't find my keys), the thing cranked like it never had a problem. I guess the ignition switch wiring has some loose connections. Not the first time that plug/switch has given me problems (well not that specific switch, since it was replaced the last time). I drove it around the yard a bit and it seems to be doing ok. I will get the running light working next time I'm in town, along with the wipers, and relocating the pin on the brake pedal for hydroboost, and then get the Bronco inspected.
 

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Chillin on the Gulf Coast
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1,587 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Well I finally got back to working on my Bronco. Towed it to my house Saturday. I was stationed in Florida for a few years and had left the Bronco at my parents house. Moved back and bought a house the next town over 3 years ago.It gave me hell getting it moved, but it's in my driveway now.
I have never really gotten my OBDII swap buttoned up and had wiring just draped everywhere. I have been working at cutting down harnesses (donor was a long bed F-150) and getting the truck cleaned up. I swapped in a new set of headlight housings off of Ebay with clear lenses and put in LEDs. I also correctly merged the wiring for the turn signals and running lights since I was having issues with the lights back feeding from the ground side and messing with the dash and computer. The LED turn signal bulbs prevent back feeding. I cleaned the MFS and have the front lights working like a charm. I cut down the rear harness tonight and spliced it, but ran out of time before I could reconnect the tail lights and check if it was all working. I will check that and the fuel pump out tomorrow.
The Bronco is not starting yet without a shot of ether, so I still have some issues. It sputters and stalls on it's own. I likely have a bad PCM and have decided to quit avoiding replacing it. I ordered a remanufactured one from Ebay and am waiting for it. Fingers crossed it helps.
The only real issues I forsee right now is that the Bronco does not have a third brake light setup, and the F-150 donor was wired for one. I need to find the wiring for it at the dashboard since I do not have the interior harnesses for the F-150 anymore. I am going to install a dummy load resistor for the third brake light. I dont know what color the wires for it should be.
I also need to install the dashboard better. It's just hanging from the firewall below the windshield. The A pillars are different between the 87-91 and 92-97 series. The lower mount will need to be fabricated, and while I have the dash out, I need to patch up the firewall where I had to cut it up for the swap. Once I get it on the road I am going to get it all put together 100%. Right now i need to get it up to basic DD status.

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Super Moderator
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14,531 Posts
sounds like you still have a few gremlins, but at least you have it some place now where you can get the rest of it sorted out..
 

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Super Moderator
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23,919 Posts
Yo cajunrebel,
152537

Outside Cargo High Mount 3rd Brake Light wiring Diagram in a 96
From 1996 Bronco Workshop Manual @ 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
Se3 more wiring diagrams, connector pin-outs, etc.
And see "Refer to the illustrations for the harness being replaced while performing the following removal and installation procedures" @ 1996 Bronco/F-Series
 

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Chillin on the Gulf Coast
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1,587 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
Thanks Meisk!
should have had it towed to Florida i could of helped ya. or is it in Florida? sorry im kinda too lazy to read through the actual thread
I did not have room for a third vehicle at my home in Niceville. As it was I had a boat that I was paying to store on base. I think I remember you live a good ways off from there though.
Anyways, I hooked up the taillight harness today when I got home and tested it out. It worked fine. Then just for shits and giggles I turned the key and the Bronco cranked right up. I realized my lights were on, and shut them off and it stumbled and died. So i turned em on again and it ran. It seems that the fuel pump isn't running from PCM signal, but it does prime when the key is turned, and runs constantly when the running lights are on. I may have crossed a wire when I spliced that harness last night.
I warmed up the engine and changed the oil and filter then shut it up. Atleast it runs. I need to check why my dash lights aren't working also. Not a top priority though.

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Chillin on the Gulf Coast
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1,587 Posts
Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
Not much time to work on it today. Have to work extremely early this weekend and have to bring my son to his Grandma tonight. I started swapping out my battery terminals for Mil Spec lugs. I made a new positive cable to go between the battery and the starter solenoid. Now I'm working on the starter cable and ground.
The weather is going to be horrible this weekend so probably wont get to do anything else until Sunday evening or Monday. Once I get the wiring work done, the computer installed and the power steering pump repaired, I'm going to try and drive it. I will have to look for the wiring for the third brake light to wire in a resistor. I may have to temporarily wire in a buld and stow it somewhere instead if I cannot get a resistor picked out (not yet sure what size I need) and shipped in. There are limited options for them locally.

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Edit. Got back early enough to finish the battery cables and replace the fuel pump and fuel level sending unit. I got a cheap ebay setup, so we will see how long it lasts. The engine spins very fast with all 2 gauge soldered cables and a new battery. At some point I am going to replace the brushes in the starter. I think it's the original. I need to clean the MFS better. My left headlight was flickering with the lights in the running light position. I also may have broken my transfer case when I pulled out the truck from storage. It's not moving at all when I put it into gear and the shifter wont move from 4wd or neutral to 2wd or 4w low. The cases aren't hard to find, so I'm not really worried. The case isn't broken, so as long as I didn't snap the output shaft, I should be able to use parts from any BW1356.
 

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Yo cajunrebel,
1356 Manual Shift, No Movement or Neutral Position Tip/Saver Spacer & pic; "...Many 1987-1995 Ford F series 4x4 trucks and full size Bronco owners with 1356 manual shift transfer cases commonly complain of a "no movement" or an occasional neutral condition. This condition is usually caused by the linkage wearing the transfer case at its point of contact (1356 manual shift models only). Sonnax offers a case saver spacer 36605-01. This case saver spacer goes between the shift selector cam and the case and requires no special tools to install. The spacer moves the cam closer to the shift fork, thus preventing and/or eliminating: 1) one or both shift forks from becoming disengaged from the shift cam, 2) "slop"from the linkage caused by a worn linkage bore in front case half. This item is a specific size/thickness not commonly found in ordinary flat washers. This repair is quick, easy and a lot less expensive than repairing or replacing the case. Model: 36605-01..."

Attempt to shift into 4H from 2H or 4L results in the module clicking and chattering and the system stops in 2H.

1356 Electric Shift Motor Troubleshooting & Repair (travel stops)
Source: by Richard C (Bigric, Money Pit) at Electric 1356 motor fix - FSB Forums
Excerpts;
"A common problem seems to be that the travel stop breaks when it returns to 2WD, causing it to move just out of range so that it won't engage 4WD again. I've fixed mine twice so far, and I took some pics today when I did it..."
 

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Chillin on the Gulf Coast
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1,587 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
The wife worked the college football championship fan central event in New Orleans and was gone for 4 days and I had drill last weekend. My son went to Grandmas for the weekend. So with bad weather and three dogs and no one to clean up the house was a wreck, and the wife was sick today. Nothing happened with the Bronco, but the house is clean and the wife is on the mend.
My replacement PCM came in today and the other items I ordered to redo my harness have also trickled in. I am going to replace the PCM tomorrow and pull the transfer case out. But I have to clean my garage up before I have room to open it up.
My new tailpipe came in from Autozone. It's a Bossal 102-7690 for a 96 Bronco 5.8. It's not the greatest by far. Its 2 1/2 inch diameter and the bends are fairly smooth, so it should work. I need to look around when I clean for the exhaust adapter that I'm pretty sure I bought to go from 3 inch to 2 1/2. I slid the pipe into place earlier and it looks like the tip is angled up. If so, I will cut it off behind the rear hanger and use a coupling to rotate it to a better angle.
I am going to be installing the 6 relay box to control the 3 window motors and reusing the old double relay plug that was on the rear window for the door locks later on. The factory lock actuators were shot and I tore them out years ago and bought aftermarket ones that I still haven't installed. I need to find them too.
Last thing I can think of tonight is that I need to get another rear pinion nut. I need to reset my opinion preload after having replaced my rear yoke for a flange. I never got it set back again. I already have the beam type torque wrench, a crush sleeve eliminator, and I replaced the rear pinion seal a while ago I believe.

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Chillin on the Gulf Coast
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Discussion Starter #50
Pulled the transfer case out and tore it down. Apparently there was a rapid kinetic disassembly of the range fork. It snapped off the ears. The pump also spun. I ordered a new fork and pump already. Should be here next week. Till then I'm going to work on wiring.


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Chillin on the Gulf Coast
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Discussion Starter #51
I took the rear axle apart today to replace the crush sleeve with a pinion spacer and shim kit. It fought me the whole way. I got the pinion shimmed out to spec, replaced the pinion seal and the pinion nut. I also replaced a wheel stud that was broken off a while back.
I also pulled the power steering pump and tore down a spare pump to rebuild. I'm going to throw a seal kit in it and put it back in. The pump that was in it leaked all the fluid out while the truck was sitting. I have run the truck long enough that I have damaged the internals. Ooh well the Sag pumps are cheap.
I think I found my wiring issue with the fuel pump. I will check on it tomorrow. I'm tired after messing with the axle all day while on the ground.

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Chillin on the Gulf Coast
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Discussion Starter #52
Got some work in yesterday. Pulled the steering column and bracket out and exposed the wiring to the dash and firewall harnesses. I traced the wiring for the fuel pump and found that Ford duplicated a wire color in the chassis harness. The other wire was the relay controlled trailer running lights. Swapped the pins and the lights no longer control the fuel pump. Need to install the column to see if the EEC is controlling the fuel pump properly.
Once I confirm that and the dash lights, I'm going to troubleshoot the blower motor that's also not working.

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Chillin on the Gulf Coast
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1,587 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
While I had everything out of the way I pulled my brake pedal out to move the pin up to the correct location for the F-450 hydroboost I installed. I used a flap wheel to grind the weld on the back side of the pin flush with the pedal arm. Then I was able to just make out the edges of the pin and used a small socket in my shop press to push the pin out. I will weld it up tomorrow while I have light to do it outside. I need to clean up the bracket and pedal afterwards and paint it. It's starting to rust pretty good.
On a related side note, that pedal arm is made of some hard, high quality steel. I burned up two step bits drilling the hole out to 9/16". One was pretty long in the tooth, and the other was a brand new cobalt bit from HF. Can't say I'd recommend buying that bit. Especially at $20.

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Chillin on the Gulf Coast
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Discussion Starter #54
I brought the parts of my transfer case and power steering pump up to work yesterday and cleaned them in the parts washer during lunch. Picked up the seals for the pump on the way home and got it put together. I will need to swap around some hardware to get that pump installed. It has different threads for the mounting bracket and a different flow control valve.
I mostly put the transfer case together, but I still dont have the range fork. Once I do I will button it up. I'm going to weld on the pump arm mod and weld my brake pedal tonight probably. Hopefully it stops raining first.

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Chillin on the Gulf Coast
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Discussion Starter #55
I reinstalled the power steering pump Friday night and hooked it up. I still need to run a new return line for it because I had to cut the old one off. Then I will fill and bleed the system and reinstall the belt fan and shroud.
I have almost finished wiring up my windows. I need a ground for the switches, but I've found a great spot for it.
I took out all the wiring in the dash to try and find my wiring error. I think i found it. There is a 12 gauge ground wire on the drivers side that goes through a connector that I wasnt using. So it wasnt hooked up. That is one of the main grounds for the entire dash. I cut it off and have spliced in a new ground. Now that i know where the main ground circuit if for the dash it will be easy to tap into for my switches. I'm currently rewrapping the dash harness to reinstall it. I thinned out some wiring that I'm not using. Mainly the stock speaker wiring. I am running new, larger gauge wires for all of my speakers. Hopefully hooking up this ground will run some gremlins off from my dash and A/C system.

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Chillin on the Gulf Coast
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Discussion Starter #56
I can finally report some success. I laid the harness in half ass and the dash lights and blower work. I need to mess with the wipers. They aren't rigged correctly. I am going to get the transfer case, axle and wiring buttoned up and try and drive it this week.

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Chillin on the Gulf Coast
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Discussion Starter #57
I got the harness half ass shoved into the dash and put the steering column in and it cranks and runs. I still need to work on the HVAC controls once I get a new mode switch. Mine was so dry rotted it fell apart. Got one on the way.
Next I'm going to put everything under the hood back together, fix the wipers and install the transfer case and button up the rear axle. Then hopefully it will be ready to test drive.

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