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Hi-
Im about to change the oil in my Bronco. I plan on using Mobil 1 and switching to synthetic. From day 1, my Bronco has burnt a quart of oil every 1,000 miles. Should I try using a thicker oil like 10W-40 instead of 10W-30? And also what do you all recommend for additives? Engine Restore? Lucas? Marvel Mystery Oil? Which is best? Also, I heard some people use Lucas because it thickens the oil.
 

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I've used lucas before in an old engine and I believe it caused more problems than helped. It seemed to clean up the gunk in the engine but all that gunk was then stuck to the oil pickup screen. Also plugged the oil pressure sending unit. 10w-30 and 10w-40 are really the same weight, they just thin different at higher temperatures. I like straight 30 weight in older engines
 

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MARBLE GARGLER!
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The warmer months are here so just use Mobil 1 15/50. That's what I do and have a serious drop in oil burning. Even in the cold months while visiting lake Tahoe {freekin cold} I get fast oil pressure. Conventional 20/50 and Synthetic 15/50 are different animals when it comes to cold weather. In the colder days we get down where I live {it still gets to freezing} I just give my Bronco a little more warm-up, if the heat guage moves at all the oil is plenty warm. I have an infa red temp gun and you would be suprized how fast the valve area's of the cylinder heads heat up {i mention this as a comparison that effect's oil drain back to the pan}
 

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you should buy an oil for high mileage engines... Ive heard the stuff that Joe Gibbs is putting out is really good stuff... these oils are high in zinc... you need one high in zinc... remember how we used to go 6000 miles between oil changes and then it went to 3000? thats because our nosey govmint decided that the zinc in the oil was PO-lutin our air and I think it might have been shortening the lives of catalytic converters so they took out the ever important zinc... Im not big on adding stuff to the oil but "RESTORE" might work for you, its sold at wally world and is designed to fix your problem of scored cylinder walls... its i a silver cylindrical can...
 

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I've used 10W40 in my engines for years. The only exception to that is if/when I'm breaking in a new (street) engine. I like 10W30 for that, leastways for the first 5K or so.

I'm not a big fan of dumping stuff into my oil. The way I figure it, the enginers that design/test motor oils know a lot more about oil than I do. Modern-day motor oils already have an additive package that has been tested far more than any testing that a mere mortal like me can do on my own.

Timely oil changes and good filters are important. I change mine every 3K...like clockwork.
My thought there is that even with a real-good oil that don't break down all that quick, I still don't want wear metals, dirt, carbon and the other stuff that it accumilates to stay in my motor.
After 45 years of doing this stuff, I'm perty convinced that engine sludge has three primary causes..... Using the wrong oil, too cool of a thermostat, and/or "extended" oil changes.

I'm talking everyday street engines here. Special purpose or full-on race engines are a different thing all together.

DGW
 

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Amen to that DGW1949, except for the thermostat.. really? what difference would 20* cooler do to an engine? are you talkin new engines because that would cause several problems... but on an older non computerized engine? Not that im saying your wrong I just havent heard of disadvantages of cooler thermostat other than loss of heat for the heater in the winter time... of course in Texas we dont have real winters...
 

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yeah same here.

Sludges is from lack of oil changes and contaminates can no longer stay suspended in the oil. Folks that don't change oil' but just add new oil on top of oil, typically see sludge.

As far as wrong oil theory, most newer oils are detergent types, As long as you use this and change it , no sludge should build. if you have a non detergent type of oil, than it should not trap contaminates and no sludge will exists, but the deposits are left elsewhere in your motor.
 

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Simply put......the cooler ya run an engine, the more sludge AND cylinder wear you're going to see per X-amount of miles. I have some Ford manuals which have test results/charts that support that...but....I don't have enough computer brains to scan and post them here.

A side effect to keeping your engine temp within the factory designed perimeters is that the hotter it runs, the more efficient it becomes. In other words, it'll produce more power, less emissions, AND get better milage at 200* than it will at 180. NASCAR racers have know that for years. Factory engineers are more hard-headed lot though, so it took them longer to catch on.

DGW
 

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hmmm ok but for sake of discussion, lets take for instance one of our broncos here in TX during the summer... is it really going to run 20* cooler, or is it just going to open the thermostat earlier (20* is probably 10 seconds on a 100+ day) but then run at the same operating temp as normal? basically this was my reasoning for NOT going with a lower thermostat in my 01 Trans Am... I didnt think there would be much to be gained there plus the fact that it could screw up the computer operations...
 

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to the OP........a quart every 3000 mi. is normal, a quart every 1000 mi. means your engine is got a good bit of wear and/or hard miles on it.that being said, i wouldn't waste any time or money with synthetic oil.your best bet would be some 20/50w to make that engine last as long as possible.
 

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MARBLE GARGLER!
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Honestly, How much hotter is your engine on a 80 degree day then on a 100 degree day ? The radiator and thermostat are trying to keep a constant temperature regardless of outside temperature... WE are the ones that feel the heat and wonder about the engine, Pop the hood on a very cold day after driving the car and put your hand on the engine... its still freekin' hot.
 

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it could make a difference in cooling, I know my car varies up to 15 degrees on gauge (approx 190+ to <210)from 70 to 100+ outside ambient temp... this is under average freeway driving conditions, not traffic...
 

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and if I remember correctly my thermostat is a 185... had the option of 160 but didnt do it...
 

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hmmm ok but for sake of discussion, lets take for instance one of our broncos here in TX during the summer... is it really going to run 20* cooler, or is it just going to open the thermostat earlier (20* is probably 10 seconds on a 100+ day) but then run at the same operating temp as normal? basically this was my reasoning for NOT going with a lower thermostat in my 01 Trans Am... I didnt think there would be much to be gained there plus the fact that it could screw up the computer operations...
Generaly speaking, that depends on how big and/or efficient the heat exchanger (radiator) is AND the amount of air that is flowing through it.
But yeah, you are basicly right in your thinking. Back in 50's-60's one could use a 160* thermostat and it would actualy matter. But that aint the case in today's cost cutting, lighter/cheaper/better world. Most factory cooling systems are so borderline these days, as we attempt to lower the engine's temperature much below where the factory wants it to run at, the radiator soon becomes the limiting factor instead of the thermostat.
Not saying that a guy couldn't get his Bronco down to 180 or so. But 160?.....that probably aint going to happen on a warm day.

DGW
 

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This is the best stuff I have found-

http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html
I'm intrigued by their claim on the website that they can help stop slow seal leaks. I am about to change my oil, and I know that I have a slow RMS leak. Maybe if I follow their procedure it could stop those few drips after a haul on the freeway? I'm willing to try it instead of dropping the large amount of time or money to change the thing out properly. I will do it eventually, but I'm not sure how long I will live here and I don't want to commit until I have a better idea! Anybody tried using auto rx this way??
 

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to the OP........a quart every 3000 mi. is normal, a quart every 1000 mi. means your engine is got a good bit of wear and/or hard miles on it.that being said, i wouldn't waste any time or money with synthetic oil.your best bet would be some 20/50w to make that engine last as long as possible.
Personally I think we have a winner here. Synthetic oil is designed to keep a good engine good. If you are just burning it, that is just throwing money away.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Nope new from the factory, the engine burnt a quart every thousand miles and that has not changed from day 1 so it's not wear and tear. And I've always changed oil every three thousand miles.
 

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Nope new from the factory, the engine burnt a quart every thousand miles and that has not changed from day 1 so it's not wear and tear. And I've always changed oil every three thousand miles.
wow.. Id be on to their customer service(who ever you bought it from) about that, cuz that aint right... where did you get this motor from? or did you buy the truck brand new?
 

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I've had great luck with Lucas in large diesel engines, but gas engines just don't seem to like it. I've seen RESTORE in the silver can clog up oil galleries and fried a 2.8 V6 Chevy. Duralube worked in my Bronco. I noticed more power after a little bit of driving. Good stuff. Better than Slick 50.
 
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