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Discussion Starter #1
Recently noticed an increasing oil leak from the pan. Front corner drivers side. Wet bolts. Thought it was water from my timing cover at first, but no luck. It's oil. Starts after I shut off the engine. Starting to leave quite the large spot on my driveway. I've always had a little oil drip, but this is a change. Added 1/2 quart today. It's been 1,500 miles since last oil change. And I used Penzoil high mileage 10w-30(5 qts) and Lucas Oil high mileage stabilizer (one quart). Maybe the extreme VA heat is causing it to intensify?

Is there a way to fix this without the painful procedure of jacking up the engine? I've read that's the only way to get to the oil pan. If it were easy I'd just drop the pan and change the seal.
 

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They make thread sealing washers (look them up on McMaster Carr) you could try in a pinch. I bought some for my front diff. I believe they worked but I also had thru-RTV leaks so it never really stopped leaking till I changed the gasket.
 

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1986 Bronco, 351w, Edelbrock aluminum top end, Holley 600, 4" BDS lift, 35" Maxxis Razr's, stuff..
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are you sure its coming from the pan? could be front crank seal or around the timing chain cover. have you tried retorque of all the bolts in that area? Doesn't leak when running - only just after you turn it off? Is is leaking when running but just blowing back or is it really not leaking when it is running?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
are you sure its coming from the pan? could be front crank seal or around the timing chain cover. have you tried retorque of all the bolts in that area? Doesn't leak when running - only just after you turn it off? Is is leaking when running but just blowing back or is it really not leaking when it is running?
Hmmm. I’m replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses this week. When I have the hoses off I’ll check the torque spec on the cover and see.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The Haynes manual lists the torque spec for oil pan bolts at over 100lbs. Is that correct? Cause my bolts are nowhere near that tight and I don't want to strip the fastener.
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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More like 10.
 

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1986 Bronco, 351w, Edelbrock aluminum top end, Holley 600, 4" BDS lift, 35" Maxxis Razr's, stuff..
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10 on the pan. The 2 larger bolts next to the crank at both ends go up to 13-15.

The timing cover/water pump bolts are 13ish.

Also check your oil pressure sending unit assembly - that’s down in that area as well.


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Discussion Starter #9

10 on the pan. The 2 larger bolts next to the crank at both ends go up to 13-15.

The timing cover/water pump bolts are 13ish.

Also check your oil pressure sending unit assembly - that’s down in that area as well.


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Thanks for that. I'll properly torque tomorrow. I cleaned everything up now. I can see some oil on the sending unit as well as the lower timing cover bolts. I'll have to wait on checking those until my radiator hoses show up on Tuesday. In the meantime I did an oil change because it had been 2000 miles AND there was oil running down the filter so probably a good idea anyway.

I'm suspicious of the timing cover/water pump. Last year I had the water pump replaced and the shop I took it to said they couldn't get it to seal properly. They used a bunch of gasket sealer, but said I'd probably still have a small water leak. Which I've had since. Also said something about not wanting to over tighten and crack something. It was a year ago so I don't really recall.
 

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1986 Bronco, 351w, Edelbrock aluminum top end, Holley 600, 4" BDS lift, 35" Maxxis Razr's, stuff..
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Hmmm

How tight was your oil filter on there? If oil was running down off you filter the leak is above that or blowing into it and then running off.

There is a threaded fitting that the filter threads onto that also threads into the block, make sure that fitting is tight.

Leaking around fuel pump?

Here is a photo of that area for reference. My fuel pump is removed, block off plate in place.

Yes - don’t go cranking on those TC bolts, only 13-14 lbs. The cover is aluminum and you can break it.

You can get a dye to put in the oil which might help you find the leak. If you could find it and get a photo you might be able to get the shop to go good for it if it’s in fact coming from the cover.

Good luck







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Discussion Starter #11
Hmmm

How tight was your oil filter on there? If oil was running down off you filter the leak is above that or blowing into it and then running off.

There is a threaded fitting that the filter threads onto that also threads into the block, make sure that fitting is tight.

Leaking around fuel pump?

Here is a photo of that area for reference. My fuel pump is removed, block off plate in place.

Yes - don’t go cranking on those TC bolts, only 13-14 lbs. The cover is aluminum and you can break it.

You can get a dye to put in the oil which might help you find the leak. If you could find it and get a photo you might be able to get the shop to go good for it if it’s in fact coming from the cover.

Good luck







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Drove around yesterday to warm it up and check the leak. From what I can tell it is leaking from around the timing cover / water pump area. And I still seem to have a small coolant leak from the thermostat housing area. This week I'm going to replace both upper/lower radiator hoses and thermostat. While I have all that off I think I'll reseat the oil pressure sending unit and replace the gaskets and sealer on the timing cover and water pump. Does that sounds like a good plan, or am I buying trouble?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Guys, I've started the process to replace my timing cover and fix an oil leak and a water leak. So far I've got the water pump off, labeled the bolts so I no where they go. But I can't seem to get the harmonic balancer off. I've got an impact wrench and everything. Went out and bought a 15/16 impact socket, but it's not coming off. I've sprayed it with PB blaster and will try again tomorrow. Any ideas? I've have a LARGE ratchet for farm equipment and I can turn the bolt, but then that screws up my timing. I've got the pointer set right at 0 now.

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_1c78c.jpg
 

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1986 Bronco, 351w, Edelbrock aluminum top end, Holley 600, 4" BDS lift, 35" Maxxis Razr's, stuff..
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You won’t lose your timing setting by taking off the balancer.

Remove the bolt.

Pick up a loaner balancer puller from your local parts place.

Pull the balancer.

The crank and balancer have a key way and can’t change position in relation to each other.

So yes, if you turn the crank while your doing this you will change where things are in the combustion cycle but you won’t be changing the timing.

You will also need an installer to put the balancer back on but I have never found one that works on ours since the balancer is so deep so I just tap mine on with a rubber mallet but they don’t recommend doing it that way.


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Discussion Starter #14
You won’t lose your timing setting by taking off the balancer.

Remove the bolt.

Pick up a loaner balancer puller from your local parts place.

Pull the balancer.

The crank and balancer have a key way and can change position in relation to each other.

So yes, if you turn the crank while your doing this you will change where things are in the combustion cycle but you won’t be changing the timing.

You will also need an installer to put the balancer back on but I have never found one that works on ours since the balancer is so deep so I just tap mine on with a rubber mallet but they don’t recommend doing it that way.


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Got the balancer removed. Having trouble with final cover bolt. It’s connected to the smog pump. How the heck to I get this off?
AA3A7AE0-F9BA-4317-9F51-E45533F9EBCC.jpeg
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I've heard of folks locking the pulley bolt with a breaker bar and using the starter to bump it loose. Never tried and not sure what may break, but have heard of it being done.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've heard of folks locking the pulley bolt with a breaker bar and using the starter to bump it loose. Never tried and not sure what may break, but have heard of it being done.
Its a 13mm. Can't break it free with the wrench. Tried taking apart the pulley, but the assembly is really well integrated to the mounts. Went at it from the backside and managed to round the nut. Tried removing with an extractor nut and it still won't move. Think I'm going to try and cut the mount in half with a dremel wheel. I just need that mount gone to remove the final screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got it off. I removed the bolt for the smog pump and was able to slide it out.

Now I just need to clean everything up and reinstall. I've got a new Harmonic Balancer, timing chain, timing chain cover and radiator hoses. I'll get it all put back together this week. Hopefully that stops all the leaks. I've been reading everyone's advice on this topic so fingers crossed.
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_1c78d.jpg
 

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I wish you luck. If there’s anything old Broncos do, it is leak.

I need to pull mine and reseal both mains and the pan. But sliding some cardboard under there has been much easier for the last two years. And probably the next couple.
 

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1986 Bronco, 351w, Edelbrock aluminum top end, Holley 600, 4" BDS lift, 35" Maxxis Razr's, stuff..
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Looking good


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