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Got a 79 bronco with a 77 or 78 400 that came out of a truck. Stock oil pan was garbage so on rebuild engine bubba put on an 8qt milodon oil pan. Problem was that the milodon dipstick didn’t work (I think he said it was hitting the crank), so he took the stock dipstick and tweaked it to ‘work’....which it doesn’t because you can’t hardly pull it out and when you do it’s very difficult to get back in. (this has been a year or so and we’ve moved so I can’t get him to make it right)...additionally, the huge oil pan is very close to my headers.

what I’m trying to do is:
1. change the oil pan for a stock size (but everywhere I look the stock pans don’t have a hole for the dipstick)
2. Id like to replace the headers..any recommendations?

regarding the dipstick, does the 400 have an option to run the dipstick through the block?

thanks!
 

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Got a 79 bronco with a 77 or 78 400 that came out of a truck. Stock oil pan was garbage so on rebuild engine bubba put on an 8qt milodon oil pan. Problem was that the milodon dipstick didn’t work (I think he said it was hitting the crank), so he took the stock dipstick and tweaked it to ‘work’....which it doesn’t because you can’t hardly pull it out and when you do it’s very difficult to get back in. (this has been a year or so and we’ve moved so I can’t get him to make it right)...additionally, the huge oil pan is very close to my headers.

what I’m trying to do is:
1. change the oil pan for a stock size (but everywhere I look the stock pans don’t have a hole for the dipstick)
2. Id like to replace the headers..any recommendations?

regarding the dipstick, does the 400 have an option to run the dipstick through the block?

thanks!
I ran a melodeon 8 qt t-style pan with their dip stick. It was short and i never had any problems, It was held in place by being screwed into the pan and supported by attaching to the #7 header bolt. I switched back to the factory pan but i run a external oil cooler and external mounted oil filter which increases my oil to about 7 1/2 quarts. So you have options. As for headers wither long tube or shorts ( 650.00) from sanderson. My 78 back in 1978 was used fro prototyping headers from hetman, their all about the same except for the collectors. Some like my current flo tech hit the frame so i had to cut the frame slightly and dent the header tube to clear the lower frame. It's hit and miss.
 

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I had best luck running hooker competition headers for fit,ease of connecting exhaust above trans crossmember and sound and I have had my 78 for close to 30 yrs now and had many different headers on it ,most fit like crap
 

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I recently ended up sandblasting the old rear sump oil pan for my Dad's 400 because I couldn't find a new rear sump one to save my life, much less one built with a threaded dipstick mount, like the one he has now. I think the guy who swapped the engine from his Lincoln into the '78 FSB must have installed it years back with the swap.
There is a hole in the block, in front of and just below the cylinder heads, on the right side for a dipstick. I picked up a 3/8' - 1/2", hard rubber plug to seal that hole without making it permanent, just the other day. That hole is designed to work with a front sump pan and a front sump barely clears the 4x4 axle and can get dinked from a hard hit. My ol' lady's '78 was setup like that and has the dent to prove it... so I'll have to find another one, eventually.

I've been a fan of Hedman since I bought a set that had an issue with the pipes separating at the gasket flange, I sent pics to them and they sent me a complete set as a replacement, free of charge and only asked for a pic of the bad one being destroyed... but that was for my '73 F250's FE360 and obviously, it would have been better if they didn't have the problem in the first place. Still... I appreciate any company that stands behind a product, especially after a few years of use and ships a replacement out within a week, in the middle of a nasty snow storm. I also had to beat a dent into the p-side long-tube header to clear the bolt head where the front leaf mounts at the rear bracket but that won't apply to your FSB either. I'd probably trust @trustyrusty on this one.

When I had to get a fresh set for Dad's cracked manifolds, I sourced a Dorman set of aftermarket manifolds because he didn't want to go with headers.


Oh yea... while you're working on the 400, do you know if it's a MCC (Michigan Casting Center, I think) or CF (Cleveland Forge) block? I ask because the early model MCC blocks had a known issue with the water jacket cracking into the valley... sooner or later. I was going to rebuild my ol' lady's but the numbers poorly stamped and I can't tell the date but it's a MCC... so I want to replace the block before I bother rebuilding it. Luckily, Dad's 400 is a CF block.

Some good info on the M-blocks: http://grantorinosport.org/bubbaf250/index.html
Some details on the MCC issue: https://www.tmeyerinc.com/tech/351m-400-identification/
 
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