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I just replaced the oil pan gasket on my truck yesterday, and I'm happy to say, IT NO LONGER LEAKS!

A big relief, because that rear curved seal was not visible while installing the pan and could have easily gotten pinched and not been in it's 'groove' properly.

Anyway, I ENDED UP NOT REMOVING THE PAN AT ALL, and I'll tell you why and how.
__________________

First, we put the truck on ramps, drained the oil, disconnected the exhaust at the headers, but left the rest together because it's all welded. :doh0715:

Then we unbolted the rear engine mounts, and jacked the engine up from the rear (no come along or engine hoise available). Then we put some wood pieces in between the frame and engine mounts, removed the jack.

Unbolted the pan, and of course the motor wasn't jacked up enough, and even if it was the exhaust would still be in the way.

So, instead of cutting the exhaust, jacking the motor up more, adding thicker wood pieces, and removing the jack again, we decided that we'd try replacing the gasket with the pan still in.

The oil pump had already been replaced by the previous owner (had a recipt too believe it or not) so it was golden.

I heard that it would be nearly impossible to route the gasket around the oil pickup and pump, but it was not very difficult at all.

It should be known that I purchased the Fel-Pro 1 piece gasket that came with the little blue plastic pins. THESE PINS ARE WORTH THE $20 ALL BY THEMSELVES!

OK, so with the pan dropped and the motor still jacked up we had a couple of inches to work with. We simply slid the gasket in lenthwise from the drivers side, under and around the oil pump and pickup which was much easier than expected, and put it in place very carefully. This was of course after cleaning out the oil pan and engine surfaces as good as possible, it actually was pretty clean to begin with.

*I just realized that I changed tense right about here, but I'm too lazy to fix it, you can look at this as a recount of my experience or a write-up on what to do, I don't care!*

Using the plastic pins in place of the four larger bolts on the pan (you'll see when you do it), you place the pins in the four holes through the pan and gasket which keeps the gasket in place, ease the pan up to the engine, checking to make sure the gasket is still lined up around the edges.

Make sure you push the pins all the way through the pan and gasket (they are collapsable so they can come out later) so they do their job and don't fall out. The pins are threaded on one side so you simply start threading them in by hand (or flathead). FORGET ABOUT THE 2 BRACKETS THAT GO ON EITHER SIDE OF THE OIL PAN FOR NOW!

Check to make sure the gasket is in it's little groove in the front and rear curved seals! The rear is almost impossible to see but since the truck was angled backwards, I figured it would tend to lean outwards rather than towards the inside of the pan, I'm very glad I was right.

Thread the pins in evenly until the gasket just about makes contact with the engine. Now you can install those brackets I spoke about. The pins are tapered with a ridge towards the threaded end. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO SLIDE THE BRACKETS OVER THE PINS AND SNAP INTO PLACE, SO NOW THE PINS ARE RETAINING THE GASKET, OIL PAN, AND BRACKETS!

SIMPLY GENIUS!

Now you can screw in all the bolts and then torque them to 9-11 ft/lbs.

Then simply lower the engine, install the exhaust, add oil (don't forget to change the filter ;) ) and pray that you did everything correctly!


So, it is possible to change the oil pan gasket without removing the pan completely, and it's really not that difficult.

I would have to say that just the time spent cleaning the surfaces and installing the gasket this way was right about 30 minutes. The entire job took about 4 hours, with two of us.

THOSE PINS ARE WORTH THEIR WEIGHT IN GOLD, I CAN NOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH! It may be hard to picture from my description, but you will see how incredibly helpful they really are!

Just remember, it's the Fel Pro 1 Piece Gasket, and it's blue!


Anyway, I hope this helps some of you guys out! I also hope I didn't forget anything!

Vince
 

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I did the job on my mustang and kept the blue pins to add to my collection of $***. Figured they would comin handy some other time. looks like a good thread.
 

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I did the job on my mustang and kept the blue pins to add to my collection of $***. Figured they would comin handy some other time. looks like a good thread.
I keep all my pins as well. Good thing too, because the last time I did it, I broke a couple.

I never thought of taking the mount off the back, but after giving it some thought, I think I will stick to raising the motor rather then the tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I kept the pins too.

I wish I would have taken pictures to add!
 

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I just replaced the oil pan gasket on my truck yesterday, and I'm happy to say, IT NO LONGER LEAKS!

A big relief, because that rear curved seal was not visible while installing the pan and could have easily gotten pinched and not been in it's 'groove' properly.

Anyway, I ENDED UP NOT REMOVING THE PAN AT ALL, and I'll tell you why and how.
__

First, we put the truck on ramps, drained the oil, disconnected the exhaust at the headers, but left the rest together because it's all welded. :doh0715:

Then we unbolted the rear engine mounts, and jacked the engine up from the rear (no come along or engine hoise available). Then we put some wood pieces in between the frame and engine mounts, removed the jack.

Unbolted the pan, and of course the motor wasn't jacked up enough, and even if it was the exhaust would still be in the way.

So, instead of cutting the exhaust, jacking the motor up more, adding thicker wood pieces, and removing the jack again, we decided that we'd try replacing the gasket with the pan still in.

The oil pump had already been replaced by the previous owner (had a recipt too believe it or not) so it was golden.

I heard that it would be nearly impossible to route the gasket around the oil pickup and pump, but it was not very difficult at all.

It should be known that I purchased the Fel-Pro 1 piece gasket that came with the little blue plastic pins. THESE PINS ARE WORTH THE $20 ALL BY THEMSELVES!

OK, so with the pan dropped and the motor still jacked up we had a couple of inches to work with. We simply slid the gasket in lenthwise from the drivers side, under and around the oil pump and pickup which was much easier than expected, and put it in place very carefully. This was of course after cleaning out the oil pan and engine surfaces as good as possible, it actually was pretty clean to begin with.

I just realized that I changed tense right about here, but I'm too lazy to fix it, you can look at this as a recount of my experience or a write-up on what to do, I don't care!

Using the plastic pins in place of the four larger bolts on the pan (you'll see when you do it), you place the pins in the four holes through the pan and gasket which keeps the gasket in place, ease the pan up to the engine, checking to make sure the gasket is still lined up around the edges.

Make sure you push the pins all the way through the pan and gasket (they are collapsable so they can come out later) so they do their job and don't fall out. The pins are threaded on one side so you simply start threading them in by hand (or flathead). FORGET ABOUT THE 2 BRACKETS THAT GO ON EITHER SIDE OF THE OIL PAN FOR NOW!

Check to make sure the gasket is in it's little groove in the front and rear curved seals! The rear is almost impossible to see but since the truck was angled backwards, I figured it would tend to lean outwards rather than towards the inside of the pan, I'm very glad I was right.

Thread the pins in evenly until the gasket just about makes contact with the engine. Now you can install those brackets I spoke about. The pins are tapered with a ridge towards the threaded end. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO SLIDE THE BRACKETS OVER THE PINS AND SNAP INTO PLACE, SO NOW THE PINS ARE RETAINING THE GASKET, OIL PAN, AND BRACKETS!

SIMPLY GENIUS!

Now you can screw in all the bolts and then torque them to 9-11 ft/lbs.

Then simply lower the engine, install the exhaust, add oil (don't forget to change the filter ;) ) and pray that you did everything correctly!


So, it is possible to change the oil pan gasket without removing the pan completely, and it's really not that difficult.

I would have to say that just the time spent cleaning the surfaces and installing the gasket this way was right about 30 minutes. The entire job took about 4 hours, with two of us.

THOSE PINS ARE WORTH THEIR WEIGHT IN GOLD, I CAN NOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH! It may be hard to picture from my description, but you will see how incredibly helpful they really are!

Just remember, it's the Fel Pro 1 Piece Gasket, and it's blue!


Anyway, I hope this helps some of you guys out! I also hope I didn't forget anything!

Vince
GOOD job, I have an 86-XLT 351w that is leaking at the rivets that hold dip stick into the oil pan. I need to remove the oil pan to weld this problem?? Thanks
RAFA in NM
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer Bronco 5.0L Auto trans
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I was fearing this job, but on my 86 302 I just bought mid february to restore, it had a remanufactured crate motor installed within the last year or so & I was under it tinkering & noticed the back of the pan was pretty "moist".... not wet, but I made note of it.

Fast forward a week & I see a few drops on my garage floor after a drive. I suspected the pan gasket, or rear main. After going under there, & wiping everything down, I decided to see how snug the pan bolts were, and I know they dont get torqued down very much, but with my 1/4" drive, these were not even what I would consider "snuggled up" before torquing.

Anyway I hand torqued them, not too tight with my 1/4" drive & a socket & it's been a few weeks & it's still dry back there so far. Hoping I dodged a bullet here!!

-Rob
 
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