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Hey, i searched for this one, unsuccessfully, so i apologize if this is a no-brainer.

My oil pan gasket's leaky, from the look of my haines manual, there's a need to remove the entire engine in order to get it replaced. It seemed to me that if i got some ratchet extensions i could possibly get in there, crank it down half way and ge the job done. I've got a 92 with a 351 windsor btw.

anyone have any good reliable shortcuts? Can it really be that big of a pain in the ass to change an oil pan gasket? Lemme know!

MR
 

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No prepuce on my -
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Depends on your skill & patience levels and available tools. I searched and read enough on here that for me - finding someone else to do it was the way to go. Pulling the motor, cutting/pulling/rewelding exhaust, or pulling bolts and parts off in order to jack up the motor for clearance were beyond my backyard mechanics capabilities.

I got a dirtballer guy to do it $100 bucks labor and I supplied the parts (he didn't know what he was getting into). Leak free ever since. :thumbup
 

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I've done mine twice:banghead. first for the gasket, second time for the oil pump.

I just unbolted the motor and tranny mounts and jacked both up by the bellhousing. I used of pieces of 2x4 to put between the motor/tranny mounts and the frame, safety first.

unbolted the pan, I then had about two/three inchs of work room, worked the new gasket in, bolt up and done. No leaks, and a clean underside:beer

And try "seaching" again for more info, thats how I found out how to do it.
 

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Lick my balls
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I punched in oil pan gasket removal and got this
What do you get when you search?
 

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I've done mine twice:banghead. first for the gasket, second time for the oil pump.

I just unbolted the motor and tranny mounts and jacked both up by the bellhousing. I used of pieces of 2x4 to put between the motor/tranny mounts and the frame, safety first.

unbolted the pan, I then had about two/three inchs of work room, worked the new gasket in, bolt up and done. No leaks, and a clean underside:beer
You also have to unbolt (or cut) your exhaust and move it out of the way.

This is how I did it, and seems to be the best method......but it's still a complete bitch of a job.

MAKE SURE TO GET THE FEL-PRO 1 PIECE GASKET (it's blue) THAT COMES WITH THE BLUE PLASTIC RETAINERS!!!!
 

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Oh, here's a little no-picture write up I made about the oil pan gasket replacement.

I just replaced the oil pan gasket on my truck yesterday, and I'm happy to say, IT NO LONGER LEAKS!

A big relief, because that rear curved seal was not visible while installing the pan and could have easily gotten pinched and not been in it's 'groove' properly.

Anyway, I ENDED UP NOT REMOVING THE PAN AT ALL, and I'll tell you why and how.
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First, we put the truck on ramps, drained the oil, disconnected the exhaust at the headers, but left the rest together because it's all welded. :doh0715:

Then we unbolted the rear engine mounts, and jacked the engine up from the rear (no come along or engine hoise available). Then we put some wood pieces in between the frame and engine mounts, removed the jack.

Unbolted the pan, and of course the motor wasn't jacked up enough, and even if it was the exhaust would still be in the way.

So, instead of cutting the exhaust, jacking the motor up more, adding thicker wood pieces, and removing the jack again, we decided that we'd try replacing the gasket with the pan still in.

The oil pump had already been replaced by the previous owner (had a recipt too believe it or not) so it was golden.

I heard that it would be nearly impossible to route the gasket around the oil pickup and pump, but it was not very difficult at all.

It should be known that I purchased the Fel-Pro 1 piece gasket that came with the little blue plastic pins. THESE PINS ARE WORTH THE $20 ALL BY THEMSELVES!

OK, so with the pan dropped and the motor still jacked up we had a couple of inches to work with. We simply slid the gasket in lenthwise from the drivers side, under and around the oil pump and pickup which was much easier than expected, and put it in place very carefully. This was of course after cleaning out the oil pan and engine surfaces as good as possible, it actually was pretty clean to begin with.

*I just realized that I changed tense right about here, but I'm too lazy to fix it, you can look at this as a recount of my experience or a write-up on what to do, I don't care!*

Using the plastic pins in place of the four larger bolts on the pan (you'll see when you do it), you place the pins in the four holes through the pan and gasket which keeps the gasket in place, ease the pan up to the engine, checking to make sure the gasket is still lined up around the edges.

Make sure you push the pins all the way through the pan and gasket (they are collapsable so they can come out later) so they do their job and don't fall out. The pins are threaded on one side so you simply start threading them in by hand (or flathead). FORGET ABOUT THE 2 BRACKETS THAT GO ON EITHER SIDE OF THE OIL PAN FOR NOW!

Check to make sure the gasket is in it's little groove in the front and rear curved seals! The rear is almost impossible to see but since the truck was angled backwards, I figured it would tend to lean outwards rather than towards the inside of the pan, I'm very glad I was right.

Thread the pins in evenly until the gasket just about makes contact with the engine. Now you can install those brackets I spoke about. The pins are tapered with a ridge towards the threaded end. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO SLIDE THE BRACKETS OVER THE PINS AND SNAP INTO PLACE, SO NOW THE PINS ARE RETAINING THE GASKET, OIL PAN, AND BRACKETS!

SIMPLY GENIUS!

Now you can screw in all the bolts and then torque them to 9-11 ft/lbs.

Then simply lower the engine, install the exhaust, add oil (don't forget to change the filter ;) ) and pray that you did everything correctly!


So, it is possible to change the oil pan gasket without removing the pan completely, and it's really not that difficult.

I would have to say that just the time spent cleaning the surfaces and installing the gasket this way was right about 30 minutes. The entire job took about 4 hours, with two of us.

THOSE PINS ARE WORTH THEIR WEIGHT IN GOLD, I CAN NOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH! It may be hard to picture from my description, but you will see how incredibly helpful they really are!

Just remember, it's the Fel Pro 1 Piece Gasket, and it's blue!


Anyway, I hope this helps some of you guys out! I also hope I didn't forget anything!

Vince
 

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You also have to unbolt (or cut) your exhaust and move it out of the way.

MAKE SURE TO GET THE FEL-PRO 1 PIECE GASKET (it's blue) THAT COMES WITH THE BLUE PLASTIC RETAINERS!!!!

I didnt mess with the y-pipe. If you are just doing the gasket you can get away with not unbolting the y-pipe.

and DO get the blue Fel-Pro gasket. Its the tops! The plastic retainers are the greatest thing EVARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR:thumbup
 

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Lick my balls
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I just put on a new 1 piece rubber oil pan gaskett Sunday and it is leaking a ton of oil. I thought this was a no brainer, but what could I have messed up.

Please help
You must not have removed all of the old gasket.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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That or there's a good dent in the pan rails or lips.
 

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Too much....

A common habit many folks make is OVER torquing the pan bolts. This squeezes out the new gasket material, especially rubber ones, and can cause big time leaks. Just as stated above, left over gasket material would have a similar effect, but if you made sure all was removed prior to installing the new one, I'd lossen up all the bolts and carefully retorque within the specs.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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On almost any non-cork gasket, there are torque-limiting rings in the gasket itself, so that over-tightening isn't possible. He should have these torque limiters if he got the Fel-Pro one-piece gasket.
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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By the way it seems to be leeking the most from the front of the pan.
Did you make sure the seal went down into the half circle part of the pan? That could be your problem...
 
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