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As many of us FSB owners know the oil pan has a tendency to rust out, and what a wonderful thing because of how much work it takes to change. It took me seven hours of lying on my back in the drive way, getting dirtier than I ever have been before. This is a walk through of with I did.



First, acquire all the parts you need. I chose to spray a couple generous coats of truck bead coating on the pan the day before, to maybe avoid the problem again. I also decided sine I was down there I would replace my oil pump.



This is the stock pan, notice the rust bubbles, they are way worse on the other side, I just couldn’t get a picture.



Step 1: Drain oil and you can see the oil on my front axle from the filter.


Next I removed the fan from the clutch so it would not hit the shroud or radiator when I moved the engine.


With lots of heat I removed t he nuts holding the crossover pipes on the exhaust manifolds.


This one took the whole stud out, well poo. The nuts were 2 different sizes, a 15mm and 16mm. I thought that was weird?!?


Then I unbolted the motor mounts from below, that was easy as pie.



Now that the engine mounts are un-bolted I can jack up the engine, make sure to use a piece of wood between where ever it is you jack it up from, I just used the oil pan. And as you can see there was a little spill.



Jacked it up until the upper intake hit the fire wall.



Next I jammed a piece of wood between the motor mounts and the cross member, I had to “custom” make the wood, cause it was not a normal size.



With the engine jacked up you can un-bolt the oil pan, and the oil pump. The oil pump has two bolts in it, one of them visible in this picture; it’s the small bolt right near the harmonic balancer in this picture. Once the oil pump is un-bolted, just let it fall into the pan. You also have to remove a nut the holds the pick-up tube to the engine, it’s about midway back.



Too get the pan out I had to disconnect my exhaust where the muffler meets the cat, not hard since I put a new cat back on 2 years ago.



I also had to remove the muffler from its hangers.



I also have to remove the inspection plate on the tranny, yes it was that close, but by disconnecting the exhaust and removing this piece; I did not have to take the upper intake off. YAY!



With the pan off you can inspect the bottom end of the motor, everything looked ship shape to me. You can see where the oil pick-up attaches, it is the main bolt which is also a stud. (If that makes sense.)



The pump and the pick-up will still be attached when the pan come off, I thought it was easier to do it this way. Make sure you clean the pick-up tube, mine did not have anything in it, but I cleaned it anyway.



The old pump on the left and the new one on the right. I decided to get a Melling high flow pump to replace the stocker; I figure you can’t have too much oil. It was twice as heavy and quite a bit bigger, will suck later.



Bolted the pick-up to the new pump, the little rod sticking out of the pump is the drive shaft for it, which runs off the distributor. If there is one tip I can offer, it is to make sure and look at where the stock one connects to the distributor, because I didn’t and it was a MAJOR PAIN IN THE ASS to find where to put it back in. Also make sure you clean off the old gaskets, mine were really on there.



I set it all in the pan and ran the pump backwards by hand to prime it, don’t want to start up dry.



With the pump and pick-up in the pan, along with the gasket set in place throw it back up in place, it was a really tight fit, I guess because the old pan kinda broke apart upon removal.



Now you have to bolt in the oil pump and pick-up. Easier said than done, because the oil pump was heavier it was a PAIN to hold it in place with one finger and try to get a bolt in, and this was also when I played around with the pump shaft for frickin’ ever. But once you get the pump on just bolt the pan on. Making sure the gasket made a good seal.



All bolted in, looks good. Now all left to do is reconnect everything and test run it. I ran it for a ½ hour in the driveway, not leaks accept for a little one from the drain plug I didn’t quite tighten up.



I have never been dirtier in my life, not to mention really sore the next day.



With a sticker on the inside of the hood, I mark the project off my list.
 

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Dustball said:
Nah, the 302 has a one-piece seal. Tranny has to come off to replace it.
D'oh !!!!!

And what year did the one piece units start ? (I'm an 86er)

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #3
BlackiE said:
Thats the dirtest you have ever been? you should come help me on a weekend project some day :thumbup

Lots of good pics you got there, and very informative.

Is that new pan a stock pan? it looked deeper than the stock one.

It was a stock replacment from Autozone, but it fit just like the factory one. So im thinkin yes, but i dunno 100%
 

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Ugh...yeah, it got done....then we promptly realized that the new pump is just a smidge bigger than the stock one...as it punched a hole in the bottom of the oil pan.

So yeah, the write-up was great, MadProjection followed it exactly, but now it gets to be done all over again so the oil pan can be replaced....SIGH!!!!!

But yeah, there was a good amount of sludge and gunk in the pan. I just looked at the screen and it is pretty nasty, even with a ton of the crap falling off in the pan during removal.
 

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GHOSTRIDER said:
So, Tiff, you gotta love the smell of oil in the morning!
The smell of Oil aint the worse thing, all must agree Gear Lube is worse than Motor Oil...! But I definately woke up smelling like Gunk Engine Brite and Motor Oil with a hint of seafoam.... After taking probably the longest shower in my life!

DRUEG said:
So Tiff did you get it all done???

Did you ID any obvious problems?

Dan
It got done in about 9 hours, with about a hour n a 1/2 or parts procurement, and me contemplating for 30+ minutes on where to cut the stock exhaust so I can drop the pan (And it gave me a reason to play with the sawzall). So realistically 6-7 hours of work was done.

Problems..... not too many, just that Melling HV pumps and stock pans dont mix. Since there is a lovely crack in the pan, where the pump sits now. Can you see the enthusiam I am exhibiting to fix it. :banghead

The major Pita of yesterday was exacally as Trucky18 said, the Drive shaft for the pump is a pita to align under the 351W when you install the new pump, and removing/putting back the pickup tube requires many midgets with an extra joint in the arm, and the front pan seal is a pita.....had to use a 2 piece :(.

Tiffster has allowed a day off for me, since snow is coming in CO, and my right arm is mangled severly....

But round two will more than likely be next week.

Trucky 18, sorry to steal your thread in tech, but thanks for the write up, it worked to the T.

MP
 

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Discussion Starter #7
advance....and i double checked today, nothing differant than when i installed it. Also, when in installed it i did not have to put any abnormal amount of pressure on the pan to get it to fit, which if the oil pump busted it i would think you would have to....(if that makes any sense.)
 

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As far as I could tell, no real pressure was needed. I think it was more once the oil pan bolts got tightened down things got tight.

Unfortunately I won't get to go home until tomorrow evening so won't be able to check the JB Weld patch until then...I guess if its gonna hold it should have cured and hardened by then. Playing hell trying to find a pan that I can get in less than 10 days...
 

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Yep, shocked the hell out of me. I think it just my craptacular luck of late more than anything else.

Picking up a new oil pan in the morning, hoping to replace it on Sunday and be on the road to getting plates and insurance on Monday.
 

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Well picked up a pan from a junkyard, going to clean it and paint it and get it installed with a nice one piece ruber gasket this time.

The JB Weld held up just fine, but not something I want to leave in place long term.

I'll let you know how it goes this time around Trucky.
 

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capedunes said:
yeah im finishing up my pump replacment today and man was i dirty i washed my hands for 30 mins an they were still black also its pretty dam dirty under my truck. But im just ready to finish it up an drive my baby with some good oil pressure
Got your new mechanical oil pressure gauge plumbed in so you can admire your handywork ?

Sixlitre
 

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Just wondering, I have a 3 inch body lift so I can raise my engine up a little more. Do you think this will give me that little extra umph to make it easier?
My pan looks bad and i need to check my lower end out anyway.

P.S. So no 302's have a 2 piece rear main seal that we can change with the pan off?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
the oil pump has to be in the pan if its not you wont be able to get the pan on, remember that the oil pump/pick up goes almost to the lowest point in the pan. I know it sucks but theres no other way...unless you take the engine out and thatd no fun
 

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Discussion Starter #18
gray420 said:
Huh. The replies to this thread may have solved two problems. The first is a nasty smell under heavy acceleration. I thought it was the rear main, but hoped not because that's why my other car is sitting in the garage. The second problem is I haved noticed lately that the oil pressure takes a few seconds to come up after I have started it. Could that be low oil level, or a clogged pick-up, or a failing pump? It's an 89 XLT with a 302.

I would think a cloged pick up or failing pump could be the cause, no way to really tell with out tearing it appart, and if your goin that far replace the pump no matter what
 

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Hey...this doesnt look as bad as i thought....i was quotes $650 for this job.....parts & labor. I'll talk to my dad and see what he thinks...maybe i'll turn this into a nice little project. What gasket did you use? i was recommended a felt(?) one....any brand name i should look out for?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I used Felpro, and I belive thats gonna be the one people tell ya to get, hands down. Its the blue rubber type, with little metal spacers to keep if from being tightened down too much
 
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