This is a shot of the main bearings and such after the pan is removed. It all looks good. If you start with the rear main bearing cap and count towards the front, the third one shows the stud right in line with the motor mount, on the passenger side, which is where the screen/pick up tube is bolted to. You are basically doing all this re&re of the bolts for the pick up tube and the oil pump blind. It truely is a PITA.
the oil pan is finally out:chili: :chili: :chili: :chili:
Once the pan is removed, make sure there is no gasket material left behind on the block or the pan... or silicone or gasket glue, WHY, and once you remove any foreign matter remove the oil residue with a good solvent that is compatible with the new gasket.
So now that I've cleaned the mating surfaces, I have the new steel cored rubber gasket installed. They come with these nifty plastic clips which thread into the block, thus keeping the gasket in place. The plastic clips are also designed to allow the pan to slide over the clips and at about an inch below the block, locks the pan in place just below the block.
as you get close to the front of the block with the oil pan, stop short of those plastic clips, remove them, and let the gasket drop into the clean pan (I didn't do this and broke both front clips, lucky I had some more clips cicking around from the last time I did this)
Once the pan is through the tight squeeze and resting on the cross member, re-install the plastic clips.
If you did not remove the oil pan, what you have to do is move the gasket, starting from the front of the block between the block and the oil pan and past the main bearings and connecting rods, until you reach the rear of the block. Now, you have just picked up a bunch of oil along the way, so you have to be sure you remove all that oil residue before you install the plastic clips.
a view of the rear plastic retainers
Because I removed the pan, I have assembled my pump and new pick up tube and dropped it into the oil pan. I purchased a new pick up tube because it is recommended to replace it, when the old pick up tube has many many miles on it. I cheaped out when I installed this rebuilt motor but decided to do it now.
If you did not remove the pan, then you have to slide the pick up tube into the pan, followed by the oil pump. Once the two items are in there, you first have to bolt up the oil pump. DON'T FORGET THE GASKET
But here is the tricky part, you have to install the distributor to oil pump drive shaft with the retaining clip towards the top (this prevents the shaft from being pulled out of the oil pump and falling into the pan when removing the distributor. This shaft is driven by the distributor, which in turn makes your oil pump work, so don't screw this up)
So anyways, now that you have that shaft in the oil pump (with the tapered part of the shaft facing upwards) carefully guide it up through an opening in the block, which is out of sight, and using the oil pump bolt holes as a guide, get that shaft into the distributor. Once it is in place, bolt up the oil pump, with the gasket and torque it down.
Now reach into the pan and pretty much using one hand, bolt the screen part of that pick up tube, to the stud on that main bearing, loosely . Then bolt the pick up tube to the oil pump, torque it down and then torque the nut on the stud. DON'T FORGET THE GASKET.
Now, because the first time I ever did this, I missed the distributor, put it aaaaaalllllll together to see ZERO oil pressure when I started up the motor. So this time, what I did once the pump and tube were bolted, I put a wrench on the vibration dampener bolt, slipped my head up so that I can clearly see the oil pump drive shaft and turned the motor over. I saw the shaft turning and knew I had installed it correctly.:chili: :chili: :chili: :chili: :chili:
Now you can raise the pan onto the clips and install all the bolts. Torque them to spec starting from the center and working your way out.
I don't think a caption is needed here. At this point you will feel the same.
now it is time to install the valve covers. I used the reuseable high performance valve cover gaskets and torqued the bolts to spec and rewired and installed everything in the reverse order of removal.
After reconnecting everything and installing a new oil filter and adding new oil, refilling the rad, I start up my motor and with my fingers crossed, I look for no oil leaks.
..........and all looks good:chili: :chili: :chili: :chili: :chili: :chili: :chili:
ahhh, my truck is running again
I just love the way my newly painted valve covers look.
I hope this is helpful to anybody out there who is going to attempt one or both of these gasket replacements. If i forgot anything let me know.......oh yeah, at some point I replaced the thermostat:toothless